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#101
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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thanks for the quick response. sway aways are quite away from the budget now a days, but something definitelly to consider, but as well i read a bit about people going back to stock bars because of the stiff ride u get with 25 mm bars... anyways also read that BJ spacers eat up idler arms... not sure how...
Also one of my questions was instead of cranking bars, just adding BJ spacers instead.
Also one of my questions was instead of cranking bars, just adding BJ spacers instead.
#102
Registered User
Ball-joint spacers are one solution but be sure to shim the bump stops to match (one or two washers, maybe, in addition to the bump stop drop brackets) just to prevent over-twisting the torsion bars when the front suspension bottoms-out.
Toyota torsion bars seldom break but do take a new "set" when repeatedly over-twisted meaning they start to sag from this over time -- just like any spring would. When the supension is higher, meaning the A-arms pointing downward from the crossmember instead of more level with it, the tie-rods are pointing more downward, which increases the leveraging and load on the idler arm. How fast it gets eaten depends on how hard it gets used -- meaning, 35"-plus tires, jumping, extreme rock-crawling, etc.
Toyota torsion bars seldom break but do take a new "set" when repeatedly over-twisted meaning they start to sag from this over time -- just like any spring would. When the supension is higher, meaning the A-arms pointing downward from the crossmember instead of more level with it, the tie-rods are pointing more downward, which increases the leveraging and load on the idler arm. How fast it gets eaten depends on how hard it gets used -- meaning, 35"-plus tires, jumping, extreme rock-crawling, etc.
Last edited by truckmike26; 12-06-2011 at 05:54 PM.
#103
Registered User
lol, where did you get the shim the bump stops part at. That's not why the bump stops need to be shimmed. Stock bump stops need no shimming. Low profile droop stop (not compression stop) needs shimming if using a poly low profile stop and it's not because "over twisting the t-bar", it's because the CV's have a tendency to bind up if using low profile stops in conjunction with spacers.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml
Do you even know why ball joint spacers were even made for these things? I bet you think they were originally made to lift a truck. That's wrong. They were originally meant to increase travel. Meaning your idea of shimming the bump stops or bump stop drop bracket etc etc is pointless for what they were designed for.
And oh the only thing I know that uses a bump stop drop bracket is a 4" frame drop bracket lift. Maybe your thinking of differential drops? Those really should be used if your trying to get the full 2.5" lift from a ball joint spacer as to help with CV angles.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml
Do you even know why ball joint spacers were even made for these things? I bet you think they were originally made to lift a truck. That's wrong. They were originally meant to increase travel. Meaning your idea of shimming the bump stops or bump stop drop bracket etc etc is pointless for what they were designed for.
And oh the only thing I know that uses a bump stop drop bracket is a 4" frame drop bracket lift. Maybe your thinking of differential drops? Those really should be used if your trying to get the full 2.5" lift from a ball joint spacer as to help with CV angles.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 12-06-2011 at 05:43 PM.
#104
Registered User
lol, where did you get the shim the bump stops part at. That's not why the bump stops need to be shimmed. Stock bump stops need no shimming. Low profile droop stop (not compression stop) needs shimming if using a poly low profile stop and it's not because "over twisting the t-bar", it's because the CV's have a tendency to bind up if using low profile stops in conjunction with spacers.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml
Do you even know why ball joint spacers were even made for these things? I bet you think they were originally made to lift a truck. That's wrong. They were originally meant to increase travel. Meaning your idea of shimming the bump stops or bump stop drop bracket etc etc is pointless for what they were designed for.
And oh the only thing I know that uses a bump stop drop bracket is a 4" frame drop bracket lift. Maybe your thinking of differential drops? Those really should be used if your trying to get the full 2.5" lift from a ball joint spacer as to help with CV angles.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml
Do you even know why ball joint spacers were even made for these things? I bet you think they were originally made to lift a truck. That's wrong. They were originally meant to increase travel. Meaning your idea of shimming the bump stops or bump stop drop bracket etc etc is pointless for what they were designed for.
And oh the only thing I know that uses a bump stop drop bracket is a 4" frame drop bracket lift. Maybe your thinking of differential drops? Those really should be used if your trying to get the full 2.5" lift from a ball joint spacer as to help with CV angles.
#105
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Seattle,WA area
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hi fellas, i have a question, my setup IFS consists of 4" pro comp bracket, used
(but new) for $400, stock torsion bars NOT adjusted, 31" and i also have the added weight of an ARB bumper, no winch....no money..
Anyways i way wondering since the added weight of both components, the lower A arm sits almost in a straight line with the crossmember bracket (meaning less clearance). MY question is if anyone thinks it would be a good idea to add Bj spacers, like an 1" or so to regain that clearance from all the weight. Would it be possible? Torsion bar and idler arm will not suffer? etc..
thanks!
(but new) for $400, stock torsion bars NOT adjusted, 31" and i also have the added weight of an ARB bumper, no winch....no money..
Anyways i way wondering since the added weight of both components, the lower A arm sits almost in a straight line with the crossmember bracket (meaning less clearance). MY question is if anyone thinks it would be a good idea to add Bj spacers, like an 1" or so to regain that clearance from all the weight. Would it be possible? Torsion bar and idler arm will not suffer? etc..
thanks!
bigger bars will probably be the better choice for the extra weight instead of spacers too since they are stiffer than stock and they don't mess with alignments either
Last edited by 4wd4fun; 12-06-2011 at 09:05 PM.
#107
Registered User
i wouldnt ad spacers for the weight, they make alignments hard to get right. just crank the bars a little to gain your height back. cranking the bars a little for the height is won't screw up the alignment as much as the spacers will.
bigger bars will probably be the better choice for the extra weight instead of spacers too since they are stiffer than stock and they don't mess with alignments either
bigger bars will probably be the better choice for the extra weight instead of spacers too since they are stiffer than stock and they don't mess with alignments either
#108
Registered User
I'll re-link/bump this older but still informative link on ball-joint spacers:
http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Ball...cer.shtml#FAQ2
http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Ball...cer.shtml#FAQ2
#109
Registered User
I'll re-link/bump this older but still informative link on ball-joint spacers:
http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Ball...cer.shtml#FAQ2
http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Ball...cer.shtml#FAQ2
#112
Registered User
#115
Registered User
oh an I know I have posted this before, I have 33 x 12.50's on mine and I didn't cut anything except remove the front valence. Which IMO you really should do anyway if your intention is to go wheeling and you need to run those tires. Because your gonna bash the heck out of it anyway.
There are more factors I took into account and why I don't rub. Your gonna have to, in your own words, figure it out yourself by "reading it, I mean the whole thing. And then read it again."
#116
Registered User
you guys are filled w/ some good info, thanks for all the posts n replies this should be stickied....but it sounds like more of a headache than to just swap in a solid front axle and leave the ifs to the racers and jumpers. i know i wont be jumping my truck anytime soon, just wheeling and DD
#117
Registered User
A statement. I should've elaborated. I was putting my two cents on how surprising it is that lift manufacturers make bracket lifts 4" simply to clear some trim and/or small areas of inner fenders -- when just a bit of trimming/clearancing/removing is all that's needed in most cases to run 33s saving a ton of time, hassle and expense. Of course, tires of the same size are all slightly larger/smaller from mfr. to mfr. and even model to model, so it is indeed a case-by-case issue.
#118
My truck had a saggy rear, a couple leaves were cracked. Luckily, the leaf with the most arch was not cracked on either side. I went to the junkyard and found a decent set of leaves(lucky). I took my original leaf with the most arch and cut them to fit in between the other leaves nicely. Got some 1” larger than stock grease able shackles from marlin crawler. Leaf spring perches from marlin crawler. U-bolt flip kit from Downey( I think). Sky shock relocation bar. Rancho shocks ( I forget the size). Also a new braided steel brake line from Pro Comp.
i like the the way it came out. Rear end sits like a half inch higher than the front. Front is stock. But I want to get bj spacers and relax it back to same height. Also I’m planning on getting low pro bump stops on the up travel side.
I always meant to do the Nissan diff breather mod. Putting that on the list now.
i like the the way it came out. Rear end sits like a half inch higher than the front. Front is stock. But I want to get bj spacers and relax it back to same height. Also I’m planning on getting low pro bump stops on the up travel side.
I always meant to do the Nissan diff breather mod. Putting that on the list now.
#119
Is this a good idea?
TOYOTA HILUX N60 IFS - ADJUSTABLE UPPER BALL JOINT KIT
TOYOTA HILUX N60 IFS - ADJUSTABLE UPPER BALL JOINT KIT
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