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Official "86-95 Pickup IFS lift thread" READ FIRST

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Old 12-05-2011, 08:03 PM
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thanks for the quick response. sway aways are quite away from the budget now a days, but something definitelly to consider, but as well i read a bit about people going back to stock bars because of the stiff ride u get with 25 mm bars... anyways also read that BJ spacers eat up idler arms... not sure how...
Also one of my questions was instead of cranking bars, just adding BJ spacers instead.
Old 12-06-2011, 05:31 PM
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Ball-joint spacers are one solution but be sure to shim the bump stops to match (one or two washers, maybe, in addition to the bump stop drop brackets) just to prevent over-twisting the torsion bars when the front suspension bottoms-out.

Toyota torsion bars seldom break but do take a new "set" when repeatedly over-twisted meaning they start to sag from this over time -- just like any spring would. When the supension is higher, meaning the A-arms pointing downward from the crossmember instead of more level with it, the tie-rods are pointing more downward, which increases the leveraging and load on the idler arm. How fast it gets eaten depends on how hard it gets used -- meaning, 35"-plus tires, jumping, extreme rock-crawling, etc.

Last edited by truckmike26; 12-06-2011 at 05:54 PM.
Old 12-06-2011, 05:38 PM
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lol, where did you get the shim the bump stops part at. That's not why the bump stops need to be shimmed. Stock bump stops need no shimming. Low profile droop stop (not compression stop) needs shimming if using a poly low profile stop and it's not because "over twisting the t-bar", it's because the CV's have a tendency to bind up if using low profile stops in conjunction with spacers.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml

Do you even know why ball joint spacers were even made for these things? I bet you think they were originally made to lift a truck. That's wrong. They were originally meant to increase travel. Meaning your idea of shimming the bump stops or bump stop drop bracket etc etc is pointless for what they were designed for.

And oh the only thing I know that uses a bump stop drop bracket is a 4" frame drop bracket lift. Maybe your thinking of differential drops? Those really should be used if your trying to get the full 2.5" lift from a ball joint spacer as to help with CV angles.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 12-06-2011 at 05:43 PM.
Old 12-06-2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
lol, where did you get the shim the bump stops part at. That's not why the bump stops need to be shimmed. Stock bump stops need no shimming. Low profile droop stop (not compression stop) needs shimming if using a poly low profile stop and it's not because "over twisting the t-bar", it's because the CV's have a tendency to bind up if using low profile stops in conjunction with spacers.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml

Do you even know why ball joint spacers were even made for these things? I bet you think they were originally made to lift a truck. That's wrong. They were originally meant to increase travel. Meaning your idea of shimming the bump stops or bump stop drop bracket etc etc is pointless for what they were designed for.

And oh the only thing I know that uses a bump stop drop bracket is a 4" frame drop bracket lift. Maybe your thinking of differential drops? Those really should be used if your trying to get the full 2.5" lift from a ball joint spacer as to help with CV angles.
Okay.
Old 12-06-2011, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 87Roxanne
hi fellas, i have a question, my setup IFS consists of 4" pro comp bracket, used

(but new) for $400, stock torsion bars NOT adjusted, 31" and i also have the added weight of an ARB bumper, no winch....no money..
Anyways i way wondering since the added weight of both components, the lower A arm sits almost in a straight line with the crossmember bracket (meaning less clearance). MY question is if anyone thinks it would be a good idea to add Bj spacers, like an 1" or so to regain that clearance from all the weight. Would it be possible? Torsion bar and idler arm will not suffer? etc..
thanks!
i wouldnt ad spacers for the weight, they make alignments hard to get right. just crank the bars a little to gain your height back. cranking the bars a little for the height is won't screw up the alignment as much as the spacers will.

bigger bars will probably be the better choice for the extra weight instead of spacers too since they are stiffer than stock and they don't mess with alignments either

Last edited by 4wd4fun; 12-06-2011 at 09:05 PM.
Old 12-07-2011, 11:08 AM
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not to jack your thread but i was wondering if you can put fj40 leaf springs in an xtra cab pickup or are they too short?
Old 12-09-2011, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 4wd4fun
i wouldnt ad spacers for the weight, they make alignments hard to get right. just crank the bars a little to gain your height back. cranking the bars a little for the height is won't screw up the alignment as much as the spacers will.

bigger bars will probably be the better choice for the extra weight instead of spacers too since they are stiffer than stock and they don't mess with alignments either
Times two.
Old 12-10-2011, 05:51 PM
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I'll re-link/bump this older but still informative link on ball-joint spacers:

http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Ball...cer.shtml#FAQ2
Old 12-10-2011, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by truckmike26
I'll re-link/bump this older but still informative link on ball-joint spacers:

http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Ball...cer.shtml#FAQ2
Not bad considering I just posted this on this very page about 5 posts up.
Old 12-10-2011, 09:56 PM
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the spacers are about 140... vs 250 on bars.......makes it seem kind of overpriced on the Bj spacers......
Old 12-10-2011, 09:58 PM
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thanks for the good input 4wd4fun!
Old 12-11-2011, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
Not bad considering I just posted this on this very page about 5 posts up.
You don't miss a beat. I bumped it so that you might actually, you know, read it. And by reading it, I mean the whole thing. And then read it again.
Old 02-26-2012, 06:34 PM
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So, definitively, a 4-inch IFS bracket lift is to be able to run 33" tires with zero rubbing and no cutting of anything in the front.
Old 02-26-2012, 07:39 PM
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people run 33x10.5 tires with zero lift.
Old 02-26-2012, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by truckmike26
So, definitively, a 4-inch IFS bracket lift is to be able to run 33" tires with zero rubbing and no cutting of anything in the front.
So is this a question or a statement? If it's a question then this is my reply:


Originally Posted by truckmike26
You don't miss a beat. I bumped it so that you might actually, you know, read it. And by reading it, I mean the whole thing. And then read it again.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-first-201994/

oh an I know I have posted this before, I have 33 x 12.50's on mine and I didn't cut anything except remove the front valence. Which IMO you really should do anyway if your intention is to go wheeling and you need to run those tires. Because your gonna bash the heck out of it anyway.

There are more factors I took into account and why I don't rub. Your gonna have to, in your own words, figure it out yourself by "reading it, I mean the whole thing. And then read it again."
Old 02-27-2012, 12:49 PM
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you guys are filled w/ some good info, thanks for all the posts n replies this should be stickied....but it sounds like more of a headache than to just swap in a solid front axle and leave the ifs to the racers and jumpers. i know i wont be jumping my truck anytime soon, just wheeling and DD
Old 02-27-2012, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
So is this a question or a statement?
A statement. I should've elaborated. I was putting my two cents on how surprising it is that lift manufacturers make bracket lifts 4" simply to clear some trim and/or small areas of inner fenders -- when just a bit of trimming/clearancing/removing is all that's needed in most cases to run 33s saving a ton of time, hassle and expense. Of course, tires of the same size are all slightly larger/smaller from mfr. to mfr. and even model to model, so it is indeed a case-by-case issue.
Old 03-05-2018, 06:42 PM
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My truck had a saggy rear, a couple leaves were cracked. Luckily, the leaf with the most arch was not cracked on either side. I went to the junkyard and found a decent set of leaves(lucky). I took my original leaf with the most arch and cut them to fit in between the other leaves nicely. Got some 1” larger than stock grease able shackles from marlin crawler. Leaf spring perches from marlin crawler. U-bolt flip kit from Downey( I think). Sky shock relocation bar. Rancho shocks ( I forget the size). Also a new braided steel brake line from Pro Comp.

i like the the way it came out. Rear end sits like a half inch higher than the front. Front is stock. But I want to get bj spacers and relax it back to same height. Also I’m planning on getting low pro bump stops on the up travel side.

I always meant to do the Nissan diff breather mod. Putting that on the list now.
Old 10-12-2021, 03:59 AM
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Is this a good idea?

TOYOTA HILUX N60 IFS - ADJUSTABLE UPPER BALL JOINT KIT

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