thorridder

so i saw this http://www.allliftkits.com/361.html anyone run this? and this http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...scon/5073.html

i would think that would work and could run 33"s at least for $250

xxxtreme22r

4" drop bracket kit not needed to run 33's. Besides that some sort of supplement kit. Not an entire kit. FOund it chepaer here too http://www.svcustoms.com/i-6213724-s...-pnt422ks.html

3" body lift, don't like em along with many other people. You only gain lift (most of which is unsafe). Don't need 3" body lift to fit 33's either.

thorridder

may not have to have the BL but will see. i had to do it on my 99 runner before the 12.5s cleared and i love it. i think the skyjacker kit would be good though

xxxtreme22r

that skyjacker kit is not the entire 4" skyjacker kit, which runs $1200 BTW. The kit you gave appears to be just some sort of bushing kit. The 86 pickup will not need 3" of lift to fit 33 x 12.50's. If it wasn't for my flatbed, I can clear these 33 x 12.50's on mine without even 1" lift. No lift up front just a torsion crank which isn't even 1" probably and about 2-2.5" lift in the back using springs and shackles, I'm raked a little but that's ok, there has been times already since doing the lift springs I have had enough weight in the back of the truck to actually level me out.

thorridder

i didnt figure the pic matched what it was, i know what is shows is a lot.
i had 31" 10.5 and i had to take them off because they rubbed when i barely turned. i dont want just a yeah the tires clear lift high, i need clear after nice flex high. did 2.5 skyjacker block and 2" BL before i could run the 33" 12.5s without rub.

Lumpy

You can run the 33x12.5's without a lift...Just have to adjust the pinch weld in the front a bit. I was running them on my stock 92 truck for a bit. Now have them on my 95 4Runner. The back has LC Coils the front is stock for now, till I get my BJ Spacers installed...

You said your 31's rubbed??? Do you have stock rims? That could be part of your issue, I can't see the 86 being that different from my 92 as far as clearance.

thorridder

i beat the pinch weld on both my trucks. no they arent stock, they were 31x10.5 15" off a 87 4runner i got with it. my rims off my 99 runner might work right but they are on it but i dont think it would look good and i need some good flex without messing up the tire. i had to put the stock tires and rims off my 99 on it just to drive it or move it in the yard.

Lumpy

The backspacing on the rims you have may not be right, this is probably your issue. XXX is running 33x12.5's and he's basically sitting stock. 2" shackle in rear and just a slight crank of his t-bars in front and he's fine. I have 31x10.5's for 2 years and I can't get them to rub if I try, again stock rims.

thorridder

i still want to lift it but i guess i dont need to as much. i will see if the rims on my runner work though

truckmike26

The torsion bar ajustment on Toyota trucks (and other vehicles like Nissan trucks, GM trucks, Mopars, etc.) was orignially intended to adjust the ride height to even it out side-to-side (and to some extent, front-to-rear) on the production lines. One nice benefit is that there's enough adjustment designed into the Toyota's torsion bar setup that we can get an inch lift without hurting anything. Adjusting the torsion bars within their tolerance DOES NOT change the rate. Whether you hold something, anything -- a wrench, a beer, your dog, your kid -- one inch off the floor or two inches off the floor doesn't change the weight or force, just the position of the weight or force. The problem only happens when torsion bars get adjusted too far without adjusting the bump stops to coordinate with the large position change and then you're asking the torsion bars to twist beyond their intended range.

xxxtreme22r

A torsion bar is essentially a progressive rate spring and cranking on the torsion doesn't change that progression however, anytime you lift a torsion bar truck with the torsions alone, they get stiffer. If what you said was correct truckmike26, then ride quality would not suffer then you crank in the lift. And it does.

And the analogy of taking something in the air further and drop it isn't the correct one in this case. Your dealing with a spring and potential energy. It's more like take a 12" spring and push something on it 2" and the same object on it 10". I bet it will fly into the air much further then when you only push on it by 2".

Take a spring or a bouncy ball drop it a foot and then drop it 3 foot. I bet it bounces higher when you drop it from 3 foot.

truckmike26

I'm not at all talking about dropping anythng or bouncing anything. If you hold something an inch higher, anything, is it heavier? The act of adjusting the torsion bars within their range doesn't change their rates. It can't. Unless that is, the bars are adjusted to the point where the upper A-arms are riding on or constantly touching the upper bump stops. The ride is perceived as "stiffer" because there's very little or no down-travel.

xxxtreme22r

Your wrong. Is it easier to push a spring an inch or push a spring 6" ? The torsion bar is a spring. What happens when you put a stiffer rate coil into the same truck that has the same weight? It lifts it.

And what does the droop stop have to do with the ride stiffness of a vehicle? You don't feel that, you feel the compression.

rattlewagon

^ Good explanation.

Thorrider, listen to xxxtreme. This guy knows his stuff.

truckmike26

What happens when you put a coil spacers or lift bocks under leaf springs? It lifts the truck.

xxxtreme22r

dude it lifts it because it effectively makes the coil longer but it doesn't make it stiffer. Cranking on a torsion bar makes it stiffer.

Someone please explain this better, I thought I did a pretty good job, but he's just not getting it.

87Roxanne

hi fellas, i have a question, my setup IFS consists of 4" pro comp bracket, used

(but new) for $400, stock torsion bars NOT adjusted, 31" and i also have the added weight of an ARB bumper, no winch....no money..
Anyways i way wondering since the added weight of both components, the lower A arm sits almost in a straight line with the crossmember bracket (meaning less clearance). MY question is if anyone thinks it would be a good idea to add Bj spacers, like an 1" or so to regain that clearance from all the weight. Would it be possible? Torsion bar and idler arm will not suffer? etc..
thanks!

87Roxanne

i forgot to mention that i made some research, i believe that cranking up the Tbars to regain the clearance, will only stiffen up the ride...and stress the bar more as well...not sure if i want to go that route..

xxxtreme22r

Because of the added weight, it will probably not stiffen up the ride if they are cranked, however, you might benefit better with the sway away torsion bars. I have seen torsion bars break, but not on these trucks, and as long as yur not jumping your truck at high speeds, I think you'll be fine just cranking on them to gain your factory ride height.

The idler won't suffer one bit with the added weight of the bumper/winch as it's not a load bearing part.

truckmike26

The proper way is to install thicker, stiffer torsion bars.