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No dash lights...any help?

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Old 03-14-2015, 06:36 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by siktruk@gmail.com
as I appreciate everyone's input...
Yet I still do not see any mention of a multi-meter which could indicate that you are approaching the problem properly, and not blindly guessing/swapping...
Old 03-14-2015, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Yet I still do not see any mention of a multi-meter which could indicate that you are approaching the problem properly, and not blindly guessing/swapping...
At this point, I'd be excited if he said he had a test light.
Old 03-14-2015, 07:57 PM
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I think you need to check the stereo wiring to make sure the green wire (which goes to the radio illumination on factory radios) isn't being used for something else. Most likely since it started with the stereo install. Might be the stereo install specialist thought it was a ground wire.

1990 Toyota 4Runner Car Stereo Wiring Schematic...
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Yellow or Blue/Black
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Green
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 4″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Purple
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 5 1/4″ Speakers
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White

Last edited by bswarm; 03-14-2015 at 08:00 PM.
Old 03-14-2015, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bswarm
... Most likely since it started with the stereo install. Might be the stereo install specialist thought it was a ground wire.
Yes, as what happens when people guess instead of looking at proper schematic.
In the absence of schematic, it is Ok to "guess", but only connect things after one properly verifies, i.e., Physically tracing the wire, Doing resistance checks and or voltage checks. However, this is best left to those adept at wiring/electrical. IF not completely confident about electrical, take your time, wait for competent help, instead of guessing and breaking more things.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-14-2015 at 08:14 PM.
Old 03-14-2015, 11:55 PM
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Bswarm, thank you for the info! I'm gonna get into it tomorrow and see what's going on in there,
RAD4RUNNER, thank you as well, sound advise.

P.S.... I do have a test light
Old 03-15-2015, 05:00 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by siktruk@gmail.com
P.S.... I do have a test light
Hey, we've got something to work with!
Old 03-15-2015, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by siktruk@gmail.com
...
P.S.... I do have a test light
A multimeter does a lot more (e.g., you can't really measure resistance with a test light). That's one of the reasons you hear it referenced so often on this forum. Too costly to afford one? No, I don't think so: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html

Last edited by scope103; 03-15-2015 at 06:49 AM.
Old 03-15-2015, 06:00 PM
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I have DASH LIGHTS!!
Bswarm, thanks for the tip, it was in the stereo wiring, the installer had connected the green illumination wire to an orange wire w/white tracer that was then connected a light brown w/white tracer that connected to the white w/green tracer ( through the plugs ) which created a constant loop, I opened that circuit replaced the burned dimmer switch, turned on the lights and success! Put everything back together and all is well stereo included, thanks everyone for the input/info, hopefully this post can help someone down the road
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