New PS pump - PS is now garbage!
#1
New PS pump - PS is now garbage!
Hey all, 1994 4Runner 4WD A/T
I had a power steering pump that was leaking from the shaft seal. I bought a new PS pump at O'Reilly's and installed it today. I also replaced the PS belt with a new one.
Before I replaced the pump, I had no PS issues other than the leak. I replaced the pump, and refilled the PS reservoir (I took some out of the reservoir with a syringe when I took the old one off). Then to bleed the system of air I turned the car on, I moved the wheel from lock to lock like once or twice before I realized I should open up the PS reservoir cap to let the air bubbles out. I turned the car off, got out of the car, opened the cap, got back in, turned the car back on, and when I did I had no more power steering. The wheel was so hard to move! So, puzzled, I jacked the car up on stands and then started turning the wheel. A good amount of bubbles came out (I couldn't see them from the drivers seat but I could tell they were splashing out) but I could not get the power steering working. The wheel remained still kinda hard to move - not crazy hard since the wheels were off the ground, but still a lack of power steering kind of feel. I moved the wheel back and forth for about 30 minutes (took a few breaks). Still no power steering. I put the car in neutral and revved the engine and as soon as I hit 2k RPMs I got a kind of janky power steering. The PS was on but it felt kinda sticky...and just not so great. During this period of revving and some form of power steering the belt did squeak when I got close to the locks. I will tighten the belt in the morning but I don't think the loose belt is responsible for all this crappy power steering, is it?
I bled the system of air for so long I also find it hard to believe that there is still air in the system. I mean there could be...It was just me out there so I couldn't see if bubbles were coming up while I was in the driver's seat turning the wheel. I just waited until there were no more splash marks. I guess I could keep bleeding...
Does anything in the story stand out to anyone on where I went wrong?
I had a power steering pump that was leaking from the shaft seal. I bought a new PS pump at O'Reilly's and installed it today. I also replaced the PS belt with a new one.
Before I replaced the pump, I had no PS issues other than the leak. I replaced the pump, and refilled the PS reservoir (I took some out of the reservoir with a syringe when I took the old one off). Then to bleed the system of air I turned the car on, I moved the wheel from lock to lock like once or twice before I realized I should open up the PS reservoir cap to let the air bubbles out. I turned the car off, got out of the car, opened the cap, got back in, turned the car back on, and when I did I had no more power steering. The wheel was so hard to move! So, puzzled, I jacked the car up on stands and then started turning the wheel. A good amount of bubbles came out (I couldn't see them from the drivers seat but I could tell they were splashing out) but I could not get the power steering working. The wheel remained still kinda hard to move - not crazy hard since the wheels were off the ground, but still a lack of power steering kind of feel. I moved the wheel back and forth for about 30 minutes (took a few breaks). Still no power steering. I put the car in neutral and revved the engine and as soon as I hit 2k RPMs I got a kind of janky power steering. The PS was on but it felt kinda sticky...and just not so great. During this period of revving and some form of power steering the belt did squeak when I got close to the locks. I will tighten the belt in the morning but I don't think the loose belt is responsible for all this crappy power steering, is it?
I bled the system of air for so long I also find it hard to believe that there is still air in the system. I mean there could be...It was just me out there so I couldn't see if bubbles were coming up while I was in the driver's seat turning the wheel. I just waited until there were no more splash marks. I guess I could keep bleeding...
Does anything in the story stand out to anyone on where I went wrong?
Last edited by joestox; 04-16-2021 at 09:56 PM.
#5
Update: got a new one from O'Reilly's since it was under warranty, popped it in, and the power steering worked perfect.
I noticed casting differences between the OEM part and the two after market parts I purchased. Interesting to see.
I noticed casting differences between the OEM part and the two after market parts I purchased. Interesting to see.
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Dernation (04-22-2021)
#6
Registered User
This is seeming pretty common with reman PS pumps. Just last Sunday I installed a pump I got from RockAuto, it whined loud and leaked at the pressure port no matter what I tried. The steering itself was very choppy feeling, like the pump was functioning on/off. Picked up another reman unit from my local O'Reilly and it works perfectly. It's like a parts lottery.
Was yours new or remanufactured?
Was yours new or remanufactured?
Last edited by az4x4runner; 04-18-2021 at 03:23 AM.
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#9
Registered User
I mean NO insult whatsoever, but you DID use AT fluid, NOT PS fluid, yes? This system ONLY takes AT fluid. I presume you know this, but that presumption's led to errors before...
According to the FSM, yes, you should have it jacked up, and on stands before you start. It says to pull the return line, and plug off the reservoir to start. BUT: ensure there's the correct amount of fluid in it. Put the return hose into a container, and start the engine. After 1 second, give or take, fluid should come out of the return line. STOP the engine immediately. Repeat 4-5 times, until no more air comes out of the return line. Make sure to keep enough fluid in the reservoir.
Connect the return line to the reservoir. Lower the tuck down offf the stands, so it sits on the ground normally. start the engine, and ensure it remains below 1,000 RPM. Turn the wheel to one lock or the other, and hold it there for 2-3 seconds. Then, turn the wheel to the other lock, and hold it 2-3 seconds. Repeat 3-4 times.
Check the fluid in the reservoir, and see if there are bubbles, or it's cloudy. If so, repeat the bleed procedure.
That's the procedure out of the FSM. Does it help any?
Pat☺
According to the FSM, yes, you should have it jacked up, and on stands before you start. It says to pull the return line, and plug off the reservoir to start. BUT: ensure there's the correct amount of fluid in it. Put the return hose into a container, and start the engine. After 1 second, give or take, fluid should come out of the return line. STOP the engine immediately. Repeat 4-5 times, until no more air comes out of the return line. Make sure to keep enough fluid in the reservoir.
Connect the return line to the reservoir. Lower the tuck down offf the stands, so it sits on the ground normally. start the engine, and ensure it remains below 1,000 RPM. Turn the wheel to one lock or the other, and hold it there for 2-3 seconds. Then, turn the wheel to the other lock, and hold it 2-3 seconds. Repeat 3-4 times.
Check the fluid in the reservoir, and see if there are bubbles, or it's cloudy. If so, repeat the bleed procedure.
That's the procedure out of the FSM. Does it help any?
Pat☺
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