PismoJoe

haha I wasn't trying to burn him, just thought I would pass on some information that came from someone who knows quite a bit about engines

myyota

X2 on exhaust and gears, you already have a cam, so open up the exhaust so it can breathe better and then regear it, that will make a difference.

PismoJoe

Ha its just as worthless as everyone elses opinion so that makes it not worthless at all!

I do see where you are coming from,I'm wondering if you typed 22R by accident?

My dilemma with boring is with the EFI, not with a carb set up. Like I said earlier, with the same stock fuel map I don't think the power would be noticeable. I think the data proves that...a 3 hp gain? Thats like driving with the A/C on v. the A/C off, do you really notice the hp drop?

Anyways, if you bore anything above .020, chances are that you won't even run the stock head or cam anyways, unless someone would bore out the block and leave everything else stock? (minus pistons of course) That's a waste! I wouldn't mind slapping whoever bored their 'stock' 22R .040 over and dyno'd it to get this data.

Anyways, this could be argued both ways. I don't doubt that there is a gain, or that this data is correct, but I couldn't personally notice a 3hp difference if one does exist.

g_cali

.....

xxxtreme22r

I wouldn't bore these 22r 40 over as it leave no room to do another rebuild if you have it that long or if anything goes wrong on the rebuild. 40 over is pretty much max you can go. anything at or after that the block is scrap. can you go more than 40, I believe so, but wouldn't I on a motor that is daily driven? no. I bored mine 30 over.

Here is another kicker which has not been said. When using rebuilder pistons most of them including the EB's set are offset and sit lower in the block. Why you ask? It's because piston manufactures assume you are going to do the right thing and have the head's shaved down to level them down or fix it's mating surface. What does this do to your displacement? Well it lowers it. You can get this displacement back by boring the cyls. So really aren't increasing the displacement of the motor that much if at all if you are using new NON OEM pistons.

Here is another issue during rebuild. You have your rods cut down to re-round the journals. What does this do to your displacement? Lowers it because now your lowering the stroke of the motor. Again same issue as listed above.

How do you fix for the lower stroke and shorter pistons? shave the block down so you have the pistons tops flush with the block. (Also called 0 quench). in some cases this has to be 20-30 thousandths. Again this situation is where boring out the motor you will see no gain in performance over stock displacement. However if you don't bore, you will more than likely see a loss of power.

PismoJoe

Gnarly, I'm not disagreeing that there is a very marginal at best increase in boring. There are just far more things you can do to increase hp without just 'punching it out' to the maximum level acceptable. I bored mine 20 over, I would have done 30 over if it was a 22R but other than that there's no real point since I'm running the stock fuel map.

I have seen some instances where people go 60 over. Are they DD running the stock fuel map? Well, no.

Xtreme, in my case, my crank and rods had to be reground, but non OEM pistons like ENGNBLDRS are not destroked. After you deck the block and account for the grounding that was done in the crank and rods (if needed), you destroke the pistons which gives you zero quench. Maybe your block was in better shape than mine and needed minimal decking, causing the quench to be negative? Not sure as I am not really an expert, that's just how my quench worked out in my particular case.

pmoose

definitely get a header and at least 2" catback exhaust, i recommend LC engineering. buy a ported intake manifold and bored out throttle body to help it breathe with your upgraded cam. You can go as far as raising the compression with different pistons to get more power or forced induction. Switching over to a MAF sensor from a Tacoma instead of the stock 'flapper door' style air flow sensor will open up the intake as well

xxxtreme22r

I remember ENGNBLDR telling me theirs were destroked. I had my block shaved 20 thousandths to 0 quench. Brand new crank and rods. Did not shave head because I bought new from ENGNBLDR.

DethYota

Here is a published result of 22re engine modification done by OFF ROAD magazine. I think it is a good look into what went into the vehicle and Dyno'd results.

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/1007...ild/index.html

PismoJoe

Xtreme, good catch yes they are destroked around .3mm or .012, don't know why I forgot that. My block needed decking due to bad corrosion around the coolant passages, so we were able to get the quench to 0 due to the decking factor.

Deth, Yes I saw that article. IMO it was a BIG waste of money for such a small gain, and would NOT be a good comparison for someone is trying to make efficient and cheap HP, unless you like paying for it at the pump if you know what I mean.

Porting and racing is a completely different subject than simply improving the torque output within the normal power band.

Did you notice they had an error in the pics in the mag? They showed it on a dyno as a 22R with a carb and all.

PismoJoe

So what do you say, I need to destroke my crank? No, its referred to as destroking the pistons.

Anyways, everyone seems to agree that boring up to .040 over on the 22R block is pretty pointless, unless you like thin cylinder walls and marginal gains. If you do, go for it, but I'll be leaving my 22RE close to stock since I'm running the stock fuel map and will not be porting the intake/TB/head.

BTW

PismoJoe

I don't know the exact measurement, but yes the GOAL is to have as close to zero quench as possible. What's the acceptable stock quench, around .006?? That's the spec so I can tell you its no more than that.

PismoJoe

Glad we got that cleared up haha. I like your style gnarly, you're a stickler but you make some good points

catcon

From Wikipedia:


These engines (22R) are extremely well known for their durability, decent fuel efficiency and good low to mid range torque.
However, its weakness is high-end power. The 22R has a large displacement and a strong block, but its comparatively long stroke and restrictive head limit its use in high revving applications. Thus, the Toyota 18R-G, 2T-G, 4A-GE and 3S-GE 4-cylinder engines are better suited for performance applications.


A popular modification to the 22R is to use a 20R head. This head has smaller combustion chambers, giving a higher compression ratio, which then allows more power to be developed. The 20R head also flows better than the 22R head, which improves high RPM power. The 20R head is a simple bolt-on modification for the early, pre 1985, block, but also requires the use of the 20R intake manifold, making it impossible to use with the 22RE EFI system. For the later, 1985 onwards, 22R block, further modifications are required.

InToxicOne

If you really really want power I would suggest boosting but that costs a lot. For now try getting a bigger throttle body, header exhaust and ditch the old 2 can muffler set up, if youre not rock crawling or towing you can ditch the 26lb flywheel and go 16 lb. I went 16lb and I have no trouble at all flying up but that also depends on what tires you're using(keep in mind mine is a street racer). Gearing your diff can be pretty horrific on gas mileage. If you check out www.LCEperformance.com they have all sorts of intakes and other stuff that can help put some pep into your 4runner. Oh and I went electric fan on a stock alt and it works great. Pushes some massive amounts of air and cools the engine quick. Not to mention no more horrible lag off of a stop.