Its baaack - 7mge VAFM swap for the 3vze!
06-06-2005, 08:41 PM
#21
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Mostly cleaned up, then painted black then resanded to see where I need to add JB weld...
Well surprisingly enough the 1/4" NPT thread is holding quite well in the 16ga steel pipe!
Well surprisingly enough the 1/4" NPT thread is holding quite well in the 16ga steel pipe!
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 06-06-2005 at 08:45 PM.
06-06-2005, 09:15 PM
#22
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Lookin' Good
But now the big question on everyone's mind...When will you be ready to mass produce these for us fellow 3.0 drivers? I know I'd be willing to pay up for the mod if it performs half as well as what you think it will. Besides I don't have the fab skills to recreate something like this.
-=Morphine=-
-=Morphine=-
06-06-2005, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Morphine
But now the big question on everyone's mind...When will you be ready to mass produce these for us fellow 3.0 drivers? I know I'd be willing to pay up for the mod if it performs half as well as what you think it will. Besides I don't have the fab skills to recreate something like this.
-=Morphine=-
-=Morphine=-
You now have two people asking the same question.....
06-06-2005, 10:17 PM
#24
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Ok - here is a pic with the old tube and the new tube...
Its not going to be a perfect fit but there is enough 'slop' in the silicone boots and the flex fitting that I should be able to make this pre-fab tube work.
Now for some encouraging news for everyone wanting to try this out...this 45 degree aluminum tube is about 15 bucks, made by Vibrant . It will need to be cut to fit and I still have to find someone to TIG weld some ports on for me (I might try the individual filters for a short time though).
Anybody in D/FW got a TIG welder that can help me out with the welding??
Its not going to be a perfect fit but there is enough 'slop' in the silicone boots and the flex fitting that I should be able to make this pre-fab tube work.
Now for some encouraging news for everyone wanting to try this out...this 45 degree aluminum tube is about 15 bucks, made by Vibrant . It will need to be cut to fit and I still have to find someone to TIG weld some ports on for me (I might try the individual filters for a short time though).
Anybody in D/FW got a TIG welder that can help me out with the welding??
Last edited by ROMAD; 06-06-2005 at 10:19 PM.
06-08-2005, 04:58 PM
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This is a neat idea. However, I do have one word for you to consider, CALIBRATION.
That sensor is not calibrated to your engine or ECU. It may report to the ECU that much less air is being drawn in then there is and cause less then the needed fuel to be injected. That sensor maybe calibrated to much higher airflows this is evident to its size.
I have done the same basic thing with both my 4Runners replacing the stock MAF with one out of a twin turbo Supra. Since that Supra MAF is cable of flowing so much more air its calibration is way off for the 4Runner. So it needs to be recalibrated. This is more then just setting the ZERO point.
What I use to recalibrate them is one of our Performance Calibration Units we have at URD. If you don't need a timing controller, which I doubt you will, we offer the PSC1 line of calibration units. It will intercept the signal from the AFM and using a 3 dementional map table you can recalibrate the sensor to your vehicle so you have the proper amount of fuel ALL THE TIME. This will not only allow you to recalibrate the AFM to your engine, but you can retune the fuel curve for best power.
Anyway, I do not know of anything else on the market that has this level of map resolution and capability with true 3D maps for $199. If you want to try it out let me know.
Gadget
That sensor is not calibrated to your engine or ECU. It may report to the ECU that much less air is being drawn in then there is and cause less then the needed fuel to be injected. That sensor maybe calibrated to much higher airflows this is evident to its size.
I have done the same basic thing with both my 4Runners replacing the stock MAF with one out of a twin turbo Supra. Since that Supra MAF is cable of flowing so much more air its calibration is way off for the 4Runner. So it needs to be recalibrated. This is more then just setting the ZERO point.
What I use to recalibrate them is one of our Performance Calibration Units we have at URD. If you don't need a timing controller, which I doubt you will, we offer the PSC1 line of calibration units. It will intercept the signal from the AFM and using a 3 dementional map table you can recalibrate the sensor to your vehicle so you have the proper amount of fuel ALL THE TIME. This will not only allow you to recalibrate the AFM to your engine, but you can retune the fuel curve for best power.
Anyway, I do not know of anything else on the market that has this level of map resolution and capability with true 3D maps for $199. If you want to try it out let me know.
Gadget
06-22-2005, 04:36 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Gadget
This is a neat idea. However, I do have one word for you to consider, CALIBRATION.
That sensor is not calibrated to your engine or ECU. It may report to the ECU that much less air is being drawn in then there is and cause less then the needed fuel to be injected. That sensor maybe calibrated to much higher airflows this is evident to its size.
I have done the same basic thing with both my 4Runners replacing the stock MAF with one out of a twin turbo Supra. Since that Supra MAF is cable of flowing so much more air its calibration is way off for the 4Runner. So it needs to be recalibrated. This is more then just setting the ZERO point.
What I use to recalibrate them is one of our Performance Calibration Units we have at URD. If you don't need a timing controller, which I doubt you will, we offer the PSC1 line of calibration units. It will intercept the signal from the AFM and using a 3 dementional map table you can recalibrate the sensor to your vehicle so you have the proper amount of fuel ALL THE TIME. This will not only allow you to recalibrate the AFM to your engine, but you can retune the fuel curve for best power.
Anyway, I do not know of anything else on the market that has this level of map resolution and capability with true 3D maps for $199. If you want to try it out let me know.
Gadget
That sensor is not calibrated to your engine or ECU. It may report to the ECU that much less air is being drawn in then there is and cause less then the needed fuel to be injected. That sensor maybe calibrated to much higher airflows this is evident to its size.
I have done the same basic thing with both my 4Runners replacing the stock MAF with one out of a twin turbo Supra. Since that Supra MAF is cable of flowing so much more air its calibration is way off for the 4Runner. So it needs to be recalibrated. This is more then just setting the ZERO point.
What I use to recalibrate them is one of our Performance Calibration Units we have at URD. If you don't need a timing controller, which I doubt you will, we offer the PSC1 line of calibration units. It will intercept the signal from the AFM and using a 3 dementional map table you can recalibrate the sensor to your vehicle so you have the proper amount of fuel ALL THE TIME. This will not only allow you to recalibrate the AFM to your engine, but you can retune the fuel curve for best power.
Anyway, I do not know of anything else on the market that has this level of map resolution and capability with true 3D maps for $199. If you want to try it out let me know.
Gadget
06-23-2005, 06:41 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
Actually yes lemme try that - but ill have to wait till my next paycheck....
I dont think this mod will work without some kind of retuning now that I've been tinkering with the supra vafm on my 3vze...pinging like MAD right now...
I dont think this mod will work without some kind of retuning now that I've been tinkering with the supra vafm on my 3vze...pinging like MAD right now...
06-23-2005, 06:56 AM
#28
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Hmm, I am a couple steps behind on the project as I am still working out the ISR tube issues itself.
Have you considered installing the trace board from the stock AFM or is that still not going to work due to the increase air flow?
Have you considered installing the trace board from the stock AFM or is that still not going to work due to the increase air flow?
06-24-2005, 10:15 AM
#30
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Ohhhh kay, I know you're having a horrible time trying to get that AFM to idle. 
Here's your solution:
The AFM will have an air-flow bypass in it for nothing but low flow at idle, and controlling that flow. I use my 3vz-fe AFM to demonstrate, cause it oughta be about the same housing (with a different trace board).
You can see the bypass here on the right hand side. You can also see the IAT sensor hanging down into the air-stream. =)
Here you can see the bypass's exit.
Along the path of the bypass, you will see a plug somewhere like so. Drill it out with smaller, and progressively larger bits.
If you're not in an extreme hurry, like I was to post this just for you.
You won't actually drill the top of the screw off!
Anyways... For right now forget the AFM cog. Put it about where it was when you got it (Yes I know it had previously been adjusted).
What you want to do, is use the screw to get the car to idle correctly. Be very sure you count, and WRITE DOWN how many turns you are adjusting!!! because of the low amount of flow controlled by this, and depending on the screw, it can be extremely sensitive!!!
Here's your solution:
The AFM will have an air-flow bypass in it for nothing but low flow at idle, and controlling that flow. I use my 3vz-fe AFM to demonstrate, cause it oughta be about the same housing (with a different trace board).
You can see the bypass here on the right hand side. You can also see the IAT sensor hanging down into the air-stream. =)
Here you can see the bypass's exit.
Along the path of the bypass, you will see a plug somewhere like so. Drill it out with smaller, and progressively larger bits.
If you're not in an extreme hurry, like I was to post this just for you.
You won't actually drill the top of the screw off!Anyways... For right now forget the AFM cog. Put it about where it was when you got it (Yes I know it had previously been adjusted).
What you want to do, is use the screw to get the car to idle correctly. Be very sure you count, and WRITE DOWN how many turns you are adjusting!!! because of the low amount of flow controlled by this, and depending on the screw, it can be extremely sensitive!!!
06-24-2005, 04:06 PM
#32
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I've used it swapping nissan AFM's before, but the same thing holds true for every AFM. Every AFM has a bypass, the questions are did they incude an adjustment (They would have to b/c it's tuned at the factory) and where did they hide it!
It's set no-where near factory. To get it dialed in, it'll take a while, simply because you gotta set the idle with the screw so it stops dieing, then get the AFM cog so it'll run pretty well. Then you go back and adjust the idle, then you probably want to do a little more cog adjustments.
If you can get the idle bypass dialed in, and the main AFM cog into the "general viscinity". You can quit playing with the idle bypass and just get the truck running like you want to.
It's set no-where near factory. To get it dialed in, it'll take a while, simply because you gotta set the idle with the screw so it stops dieing, then get the AFM cog so it'll run pretty well. Then you go back and adjust the idle, then you probably want to do a little more cog adjustments.
If you can get the idle bypass dialed in, and the main AFM cog into the "general viscinity". You can quit playing with the idle bypass and just get the truck running like you want to.
10-17-2005, 07:27 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
Here is the thread comparing the openings of a 3vze and a 7mge vafm's - the pics are gone but the measurements remain. Keep in mind that is about a 30% increase in flow size:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...1&postcount=15
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...1&postcount=15
01-22-2006, 09:47 PM
#37
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Thread Starter
not given up....on the back burner...
I NEED to order that URD calibrator gadget was talking about and to that end just dump the AFM and switch to a 3" MAF. That combined with 3vze cams should yield a NICE gain...
I NEED to order that URD calibrator gadget was talking about and to that end just dump the AFM and switch to a 3" MAF. That combined with 3vze cams should yield a NICE gain...
01-29-2006, 05:02 PM
#38
Registered User
Originally Posted by Toysrme
I've used it swapping nissan AFM's before, but the same thing holds true for every AFM. Every AFM has a bypass, the questions are did they incude an adjustment (They would have to b/c it's tuned at the factory) and where did they hide it!
It's set no-where near factory. To get it dialed in, it'll take a while, simply because you gotta set the idle with the screw so it stops dieing, then get the AFM cog so it'll run pretty well. Then you go back and adjust the idle, then you probably want to do a little more cog adjustments.
If you can get the idle bypass dialed in, and the main AFM cog into the "general viscinity". You can quit playing with the idle bypass and just get the truck running like you want to.
It's set no-where near factory. To get it dialed in, it'll take a while, simply because you gotta set the idle with the screw so it stops dieing, then get the AFM cog so it'll run pretty well. Then you go back and adjust the idle, then you probably want to do a little more cog adjustments.
If you can get the idle bypass dialed in, and the main AFM cog into the "general viscinity". You can quit playing with the idle bypass and just get the truck running like you want to.
James
07-14-2006, 05:21 PM
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Link to the manuals?
1. A HUGE thanks go to Nathan Buchanan of the University of Tulsa for putting online what most of us dont have - toyota factory repair manuals on the 3vze. THANKS NATE!!!
Would love to see the link to those manuals man, thanks!
Sabah
Would love to see the link to those manuals man, thanks!
Sabah
