ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dang, for some reason MANY posts weren't showing for me... sorry I missed where you're at now. Ok, so HGasket, ..dang Music, that stinks. Sorry to hear! BUT, it's REALLY good to know what it is, right?

makemusic116

Well the head gasket affects the idle in two different ways. One is a loss of coolant causing the IACV not function properly and the other is air pockets getting into the cooling system also causing the IACV not to properly function. The gasket is only leaking internally and very, very little. It took probably 5 or 10 minutes before the dye changed color when I block tested it. And my coolant loss is so small right now which is why I never had noticed it really. In fact the truck still runs great right now and doesn't overheat it just loses a small amount of coolant every couple days. I am not going to bother fixing it I am just selling it and getting something different. Its not a bad job to do and it only calls for about 5-6 hours on my labor guide at work but I don't feel like messing with it. I had intended on getting rid of the truck once it was fixed anyways because it is just too small I need something with more room.

uplandretriever

Ok I adjusted the tps today and trucks seems to run fine now. Guess I will give it Tina and see what happens

juice

I'm similar issues with mine and they are progressively getting worse. I have a new reman long block with about 4500 miles on it now, and when I put it in a replaced all the usual, plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter, etc. the truck has ran great up until the last 750 miles or so. at first when warm it would kind of chug when accelerating, around 3000rpm in 2nd, 3rd, and 4 fourth but not all the time. then it started with a sparatic idle jump between 800-1400 up and down up and down, but again not all the time. all this was only when the truck was warmed up. now last night I come out after work when the truck has been sitting for 8+ hours fires right up idles rough and low then dies. Won't start back up, so I wait a few minutes and starts again this time I have to give it gas to keep running. I get on the road and head home which is about 3 or 4 miles away and when I pull into the garage and let it idle, no problems. any ideas on this progressive issue would be helpful.

Andrewb1369n

This right here just saved my life. I put my throttle body gasket on side to side the wrong way lol how retarded eh? It created a horrible hiss and squealing noise. Went out and checked it and sure enough I was creating a vacuum leak. Got it fixed but

SoCal4Running

Glad it fixed it, I chased mine down for almost 3 months before I figured it out. I kept thinking my throttle shaft bushings were leaking and only saw the gasket problem when I took the TB off to look at the shaft.

On another good note I got my truck back almost unharmed other than a door lock and a ignition switch.

NAST4WD

Hey dude i dont know much bro but check your throttle positioning sensor. if its the EFI'd 22re its right on the side of the throttle body. a light bulb type shaped sensor. unplug it see if it fixes your problem. It could be bad and throttling your truck up and down. My stepdad's dodge did this and the tps sensor was bad. check that and let me know if it fixes it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

NOOOOOO, don't give it to Tina.... whoever she is.... GIVE IT LOVE AND DRIVE IT LIKE YOU OWN IT, HOMIE! hehehe. JK< > couldn't resist

Seriously... good to hear you've seemingly got it sussed.

absyota

I had a similiar issue and replaced my coolant temperature sensor and it seemed to fix the problem. Now the issue ive run into after i just installed lcengineerings big bore throttle body and spacer is it idles perfect and can give it a little throttle but once i reach a certain point it surges and just boggs the more throttle i give it... any ideas?

Blackulua

there was a write-up on the brake cut-off idle surge but I cant find it but it requires to find the brake wire to the ECU plug-in and ou just have to cut the correct wire to disable the idle surge.Ive done it on 2 of my 22re trucks that surged around 1700-2000 rpm.
Heres the closest write up that I found and this repair is costless but its worth a shothttp://www.toyotanation.com/forum/80-89-95-toyota-pickup-hilux/174362-fluctuating-idle-ac-brake-pressed-definitive-fix.html
I also added a LCE

absyota

Would the stock fuel injectors possibly not be adding enough fuel messing with the a/f ratio causing this too?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Could be injectors, like you said... But 'surging' sounds more like something either turning OFF the injector pulse or maybe even the FPR-VSV regulating when I shouldn't(not sure if that's possible for it to ACTUATE when it's not supposed to... Thinking it might be more likely to just stay wide open, causing you to basically have TOO MUCH pressure all the time). Coolant Temp Switch and TPS is where I would start. Could be a few things, including AFM drop offs spots(bad resistance spots where voltage should be swinging smoothly down instead of up and down, etc., ya know?).

Hit the FSM and look for the signs of 'SURGING' and 'POOR THROTTLE RESPONSE' and 'HESITATION'.... They have them in the "FI" section and "Emissions" section and more... They're pretty extensive in their troubleshooting.

Best wishes man, keep us updated. I would get out my multimeter and start hitting the CTSensor and TPS to start. You need the BIG 3,.... So figure out which one is being interrupted and you're golden

PS> I say TPS because you must have installed it on the new BIG BORE, ... so figure out FOR SURE if your dash pot setting and throttle stop screw settings were JUST RIGHT before you adjusted it to 4crawler specs, etc.(google that one, don't have it bookmarked on this puter, sorry man.). "4crawler tps cheap tricks", ...just google that, it'll pop right up.

lilgription

Im having the same problem as newTOyotas. I did what he did by taping the port hole in the Tb and it resovled my issues. Does this mean that my IACV is not working properly or is there something else going on? ... I plan to clean the IACV good in a few days when I get time anyways and see what all I can get to come out. I did clean the Tb out because it was pretty gunked up with crud. Could I have pushed junk into it because after the cleaning my surging started......

SX200

I'd also like to know, as I'm in the same position.

lilgription

SX200 I took my TB off and removed the IACV and cleaned it and threw some air to it. Took care of all my issues. Try that and see if it works for you

SX200

I think I'll do just that, just need some time and a warm spell.

Frankbirt

I'm having a similar problem with my 88 4runner. When I start it it idles normal around 7000-8000 no problems. So I start driving it doesn't matter if it's cold or warmed up I go through my gears come to a red light put it in neutral and it shoots up to 1800-2000 rpm for no reason. So after driving awhile I notice sometimes it idles high other times it's right where it needs to be. Once arriving at my location I turn it off then turn it right back on and what do you know it's idling normal again. Any suggestions?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Clean your sticking vane inthe AFM or butterfly in the throttle body. Of course you don't say what you tested so inspect the TPS and AFM and throtle return springs, and dash pot per the manual.

Frankbirt

So I spent some time trying to figure it out today and I fixed my problem Ended up being a one way check valve that was clogged the one running right off the intake I guess it's used as some kind of breather. Part #90925-01014. Hope this helps someone else

ejlarson

Bump.

So, I have an 89 4Runner with a 3.0 Auto. It suddenly one day a few weeks ago got the idle surge problem.

I replaced the Throttle Body/IACV with a junk yard part and put in a new coolant temperature sensor, and it still had the problem.

So tonight, I decided to put tape over the air port that the IACV uses inside the throttle body as others in this thread have done, and that fixed it.

I am curious what that means the real fix is? I took the IACV apart on the old throttle body, and it is just a thermostat.

Anyone know what the fix is knowing that the tape "fixed" the problem?

Oh - side note that I figure most couldn't experience, since there aren't as many Autos. When I put it in drive while it was surging, it stopped. Put it in park, or neutral, and it would start again.