Idle Problems/ Bad AFM?? WEASY cams need adjustment??
08-08-2012, 09:36 PM
#21
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I also have a new motor with RV cams (mines from Oregon Engines) and I have the same rough idle and low oil pressure. I know that the factory gauge is a piece of junk but on the old motor it showed middle of the range and now it's only there when cold and driving. When hot its at the top of the low and at idle it's at the middle of the low range. I don't know if the lumpy idle and low oil pressure are related and I can't think of how they would be.
I have checked everything sensor-wise on mine and it all checked out. I am putting in a new O2 sensor this weekend just because. I'll let you know if it changes anything. Idle is around 1100 cold and it runs fine, then goes down to 700 when it gets hot and it starts to run rough.
Your overheating is likely air in the coolant and unrelated to your idle problems.
I have checked everything sensor-wise on mine and it all checked out. I am putting in a new O2 sensor this weekend just because. I'll let you know if it changes anything. Idle is around 1100 cold and it runs fine, then goes down to 700 when it gets hot and it starts to run rough.
Your overheating is likely air in the coolant and unrelated to your idle problems.
08-13-2012, 08:04 PM
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Let me know how that oxygen sensor works out for you, didn't get to check out the 4runner much although did order the oem stat and tool to burp it properly. At the shop someone mentioned the fan speed and i noticed it did look slow, was thinking about going to one of those cheap electric fans you ziptie on for 50 bucks at autozone. Hopefully will find some time to finish a proper diagnosis.
08-13-2012, 09:28 PM
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Most of the adjustments you can make to the fuel system are right there in front of you.
Idle speed handled by the air-bypass screw on the throttle.
Idle A/F mix is on the VAFM body, with more coarse adjustments within the VAFM body itself.
It's a balancing act adjusting between all of them.
Hope you don't have to affect the idle stop screw.
Idle speed handled by the air-bypass screw on the throttle.
Idle A/F mix is on the VAFM body, with more coarse adjustments within the VAFM body itself.
It's a balancing act adjusting between all of them.
Hope you don't have to affect the idle stop screw.
Last edited by abecedarian; 08-13-2012 at 09:32 PM.
06-04-2013, 05:48 PM
#24
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Resistance between VC & E2 should be 200-400 Ω(not 100-300 Ω).
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...04services.pdf
Mine reads 286.8 Ω for reference.
FYI, it's called the Idle Mixture Air By-pass Circuit. And, technically, it needs re-adjusted anyway. Since it was set at the factory based on the engine's performance in stock configuration. Which, obviously, no longer applies.
If you search around a bit you might find the thread where I described how I went about adjusting mine. If not...whatever...you'll figure it out...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...04services.pdf
Mine reads 286.8 Ω for reference.
FYI, it's called the Idle Mixture Air By-pass Circuit. And, technically, it needs re-adjusted anyway. Since it was set at the factory based on the engine's performance in stock configuration. Which, obviously, no longer applies.
If you search around a bit you might find the thread where I described how I went about adjusting mine. If not...whatever...you'll figure it out...
Now cant wait till morning to do what I need to do so mines not running so rich. again I tahnk you Mudhippy for reminding me how retarded the human mind can be lol 
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