Dirt Driver

He has a TD04-14B. It's in the first post of this thread.

vinnie94

sorry in another thread he was talking about a t3t4

DIRT CLOD

yeah, T3 is too big, well would be too big for my stock engine. But room is no longer a factor. After spending some time under my friends twin spooled vette. He has it done by sts and there basic fundamental is to place the unit as far away from the engine as possible(from what I copuld gather).
Anyway, NOW I am MOUNTING at the rear of the exhaust after the muffler literally about 12" from the end of the tail pipe. Tucked up in the quarter panel(lots of room). From there I can use the storage compartment in the cargo area to mount my oil reservior and run the lines out through the bottom(high volume pump under the spare). And dig this, a small intercoooler behind the spare. at that point (with the turbo being so far back and the muffler working to cool off the exhaust somewhat before the turbo, and then after the intercooler the air should be plenty cool enough to route 2 and 1/2" flexible pipe, silicone rubber, basically whatever I can find.
The only thing was the ambient air. I wanted to bring it from the front to ward off some of the elemnts but the snorkel idea is becoming more and more appealing. Certainly alot less routing probvlems if I go with the snorkel. But I still like the idea of having everything unseen. being at the back I will obviously have a bit more lag. I am wondering if that lag would increase by bringing my ambient air all the way from the front.
It's just getting easier, I thought it was supposed to get harder, I should shut up and knock on wood huh.

What ya guys think?

DIRT CLOD

It's actually a TD05-h off a mitsubishi. pretty clean and spins really smoth...no hang ups no grind, pretty clean. and it's PERFECT for the app.

DIRT CLOD

Aaarrrggghhh

X-AWDriver

The 14B of the first gen actually isn't that small and easily flows enough for over 300hp on the 4g63s but the T25 on the 2nd gens were a noticeably small turbo comparitively. Only 16psi was enough to tear up the previous gen Vettes at the strip.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

see, now that makes more sense... i guess i need to read sig lines a little better, eh?

as for driving it, idk if id be comfortable with that... id be happy with just looking at it!!

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

are you a pirate??

DIRT CLOD

Well,... the td 05 is toast.... the casting is cracked at the flanges on both sides. I would weld it but being on both sides of the orafice(orifice?...) ..both sides of the opening, I dont think it wise, and I haven't been very good at tig with aluminum...lol...but hold your horses!!!
I picked up an Air Research M10, from my understanding it is the same as a garret t25?
Anyways, the mods still on and has had a few minor changes.

post muffler, oil now going to come from the remote filter block and return will be pumped back to valve cover. no intercooler(somewhat).

post muffler about 12" from end of tail. up in the quarterpanel.
fresh air filter and pipe in other quarter panel.
outlet (compressed air) going from turbo piped into a y, 2 segments 3" aluminum pipe about 2' and into another y then flexible hose all the way up to the front. Fabricating an air inlet for my mass air body lots of room after removing the orig. airbox.

I am not concerned with the flex hose because I see that alot of the original applications right at the motor use black hose. I can buy it as a stick and its not real flexible but enough. It's sturdy, I didnt want too flexible so it doesnt kink on me....now its not that I dont like kinky things....its just not the right application for this ...lol...

And guys don't worry about the fording water part. I have been told by many a tech that water will NOT crack my housing or any part there of. My turbo should be operating at lower than manifold temperature do to its location and I know the remote mounts get water AL the time being exposed to rain and such even while spooling HOT.
the air filter so low for fording water?...HA....I am going to keep about a 5' section of hose that I can snorkel off the filter placement!!!....yea ....it's comin....cant wait to see what kind of codes it throws at me...lol....glad I have a scanner!

Ideas?.....when this is all said and done, and everyone see's it works. WHO is going to be wiling to help me to create a kit and try for patent?

of course there will be a consumer disclaimer about it being a DIY project and in no way can I warranty the outcome of there application. as I will not be providing the actual turbo unit with the kit...
WHOA...Did I just jump ahead like 3 months? I'll stick to finishing mine first b4 I get to wild and smily on the kit thing....lol...\ can you say...YEEE HAW!...lol...
forget Schwans, I'm gonna try to pass UPS truck next!


Thanks guys..keep it comin....Blake

Dirt Driver

AiResearch's "M10" marking doesn't mean much because it was put on many different variations of small frame turbos from OEM Ford to Dodge to Nissan to Mercedes. You'll have to take the compressor housing off and measure the wheel diameters to know what cold side it is. The hot side should(hopefully) have an A/R number somewhere like .42, .48, .63, etc.

Belize Off Road Team

Well, good to see someone else do a 3VZ-TE, for the longest time i was going to do a GTX turbo mod but i rather held out for a cheap 5VZ to come on the market and scooped it up for $800us.

aviator

I was just thinking about that air intake thing now that you've relocated the turbo right aft you could rig a snorkel intake into the D-pillar VW Vanagon style... You can get 2-2.5" wire reinforced hose from Aircraft Spruce that should be able to handle the air flow and also some heat as well since it is used in aircraft engine nacelles which get quite hot.

DIRT CLOD

lol...Yea ....what I figure is that I'll have the air intake and filter in the right quarter panel. coming across to the unit and then of course back up front.

I think I will just keep an extra 5 ft of 2" hose in the truck so I can just " add a snorkel" when it is needed. I wouldnt want a permanant hole or snorkel on my pristine baby. I just put on new pinstripes this weekend! Custom arizona pinstriping.
lol




QUESTION...: so I drive a stick....the turbo works on spent exhaust pressure....more exhaust pressure, more boost....what happens when you down shift to slow down?...You are creating boost to slow down?....QUESTION....I mean if down shifting increases the revs then what happens when you are braking as downshift?....hmmm.....

Jay351

Nothing... its called a blow off valve

Dirt Driver

Boost with a spark ignition engine is mostly dependent on throttle opening. Mass air flow through the engine is extremely low when the throttle is shut regardless of rpm, so no throttle = no boost. In fact, your ECU probably isn't injecting any fuel during engine braking either. It's a strategy to gain fuel economy often called "overrun fuel cut." The idea is that the engine doesn't need to be burning fuel if you're not idling, accelerating, or maintaining speed.

DIRT CLOD

cool...I figured the blow off valve ..but was definately curious. In the process of waiting for the rebuild kit to arrive for the unit. I am so tired of waiting....waiting....waiting

Dirt Driver

That reminds me, what are you going to do about air metering?

DIRT CLOD

Whatever it takes, unfortunately the project has been put on hold for at least a couple weeks. No wheelin for awhile, dunno if i can go a cpl weeks w/o putn it in 4.

DIRT CLOD

click

cant turn a wrench for awhile I guess, hell, hard enough to use the mouse(go figure I drive a stick)

DIRT CLOD

blow off valve
thats what I call my ol'la......my better half, always blowin off hot air
..lol