David_mx70

Ive been tracking down a hesitation prob in my 1994 22re. i took off the entire intake to clean all the carbon buildup, clean my injectors etc. i pulled the egr off and cleaned it out as well as i could, the diaphragm and valve are working perfectly but if i plug the hole that bolts to the side of the head and blow on the vacuum nipple before the bottom of where the valve is some air does get by the valve, should the valve be perfectly sealed to where no air can get by or is this normal?

BigSwole

This has nothing to do with an answer but are you from the north?

Back to your question. In not 100% sure but I would make a safe guess to say that it should seal airtight. If it didn't. It would be the same as any other vacuum leak...

Have you ever replaced the little black thing?

n16ht5

just seal it off altogether. doesn't hurt to block it. if it stops hesitating, problem solved. you can use gasket maker material the heaavy duty stuff on the back of the head

David_mx70

I did a bunch of research and thats what i plan on doing tonight. im going to make a couple steel caps and seal them off, ive read when you block off the egr it increases combustion chamber temps and it can be bad for a 22re and might lower mileage a little bit but i cant find a solid answer on weather it is or not, just a bunch of opinions. i have a k&n style cold air intake, ive taken the cat out and i plan on installing my pacesetter headers, throwin in my bigger v6 radiator, using premium gas and advancing the timing to see if there is any difference in temps. doesnt seem to me like it could hurt anything, but guess its worth a try to see if itll fix my engines shluggish tendencies.....

David_mx70

Rubber grommet on the egr?.... i decided im just going to tear the egr out and cap it off, yea it should seal at idle which would cause my idling problems and there was also a leak in the diaphragm so well see if capping it fixes it.

MudHippy

I'll state this as plainly and simply as I can.

Removing the EGR will help the performance of the engine as well as keep the intake cleaner.

Your ECU will use the signal from the knock sensor to determine if there's any pinging/detonation and will automatically retard the ignition timing to correct it. If you find the need to run high octane gas, or advance the base ignition timing beyond stock to control pinging, it won't be because the EGR isn't there. Because, like I said, if anything you would need to retard it. But you won't, trust me.

Furthermore a rise in combustion temps = more power. So even if they do increase significanlty, which they probably won't, that's a good thing.

Next, there's no rubber grommet. What there is is a composite heat-resistant gasket. It's only a one-time use type. But you could probably reuse it and seal it with some type of gasket sealing compound. Just make sure you use one that's resistant to high temps and exposure to gasoline(present in small quantities in the exhaust gasses). It's important that you DO NOT USE RTV! The diaphram on the EGR valve itself isn't a concern as far as a vacuum leak. Though it will affect the performance of the valve.

David_mx70

What are the reasons for not using RVT? just curious other than it can ruin sensors

MudHippy

Sensor-safe or not, RTV isn't resistant to exposure to gasoline or other hydrocarbon fuels. And will eventually deteriorate under those conditions. This is not the case on a 22RE EGR valve gasket, but is so on the 3VZE. Because of the cold start injector location on that engine.

David_mx70

thanks for the info, thats exactly what i was going to use! do you by any chance know if the o2 sensor is the only sensor in a 22re rtv can ruin being in the exhaust stream or stuck to the back of the intake?

David_mx70

and what exactly would you recomend? sorry fer being a noob i just kinda wanna do this right and i dont know a whole lot about this silicone gasket maker stuff

BigSwole

Mudhippy is right. Its not a rubber grommet. Dnt knw what I was thinking when I typed rubber.

Thx for catchn my typo!

MudHippy

Yes, the O2 sensor is the only cause for concern on that engine. Which basically means you really shouldn't use RTV on the exhaust system unless it's sensor-safe, as well as high temp. And I should correct my previous statement, it's not so much the exposure to small quantities of unburnt hydrocarbon in the exhaust, but the heavy concentration of it from the cold start injector that would be a problem for that particular application if it were a 3VZE. And it would be considered part of the intake, not exhaust system, so being sensor-safe is less of a concern(as what ever would be emitted would likely get burned up in the combustion chamber).

So, if you intend on using RTV to seal other parts of the exhaust system use one that's high temp and sensor-safe. The best would be Ultra Copper. Which I have used myself, with limited success. Mainly because even it isn't high temp resistant enough. The exhaust, especially near the exhaust manifold can get literally red hot.

Oh, sorry, my recommendation...hold on...I've got that typed up in another thread.

O.k., a couple of threads. Here's one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...52/index2.html

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._1_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._Sealant_a.htm

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ge_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...Maker_Grey.htm

Here's from another:

http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...?PN=401504&S=N

That aviation gasket maker is probably just as good. Pematex® also makes some copper gasket sealant that comes in a spray can. It's made for use on head gaskets, and is good from -50 to 500°F.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ve_Sealant.htm

n16ht5

hondabond?

MudHippy

Is that a question? Or an answer?

If it's a question:
Hondabond 4 and Hondabond HT are gasoline resistant gasket makers/sealants.
If it's an answer, then yes. Hondabond HT would do. But at $10-$15 per tube, it's a little spendy.