Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Do the starting fluid test, this will confirm you are getting spark among other things.

Once certain you have spark at the right time and compression and the cam-crank timing is proper you can figure out what is going on with your fuel delivery.

Jumpering fp and B in the diag box doesn't produce fuel at the rails, this means there is a disconnect some where. Test the voltage at B. test for conductivity/resistance to ground on fp. not sure off hand what the resistance is thru the fuel pump but Open or Zero are not pluged in or shorted to ground.

Post another vid of the starting fluid, not alot of fluid mind you we just need to hear fire and try to run for a starter. and post the results of the two multimeter checks. B voltage, FP resistance to body/ground

rgraham13

Here is what you requested Co 94 pu

rgraham13

UPDATE:

i took of my intake(again) and removed the injectors, no trash in them, what would keep me from getting power to the injector wires, im brain storming but coming up empty

rgraham13

and my fuel pump doesnt prime still, ive checked every fuse possible even test lighted them, and nothing! i dunno what to do, im stumped

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Sorry your post got buried or something and I didn't see the video response.

Start with inspecting the VAFM to make sure the pump switch is closing. Meter FC(pin1) and ground(pin2) while moving the vane should close the switch. Make sure the vane in the VAFM isn't sticking closed and moves freely.

Next is the "circuit opening relay"/COR. Power to pin2 with ignition on, Power to pin1 with VAFM vane open, Power to pump pin1(ignition on & vane open). Should have fuel pressure, (IIRC) the 87's still have the fuel dampener the screw will pop up with the pump running.

So with power to the pump and fuel pressure. Next is the injector circuits.

Ignition on, check for power at the injector resistor(Finned box on fender), Power in on #1 and out on 2&3. Then check for disconnects between the resistor and the injectors, should have power on #1(Ignition still on) and nothing on #2.


I Also noticed how bad the intake pipes are, you want to replace that elbow that goes into the throttle body and the other flex end at the airbox if it's as bad.


You have a vacuum leak on the EGR port on the rear of the intake, this will contribute to the problems, replace that gasket.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

PS. that Green plug might be the THW(water temp) pin1 e2(gnd) pin2 THW at the ecu. If you're B/G color blind it maybe blue, that would be the air valve pin1 gnd pin2 power(with the FP jumpered). There is a visual difference between these two plugs for the color blind, face the notch at the top. If it's on the left it is green (plug q), if it is on the right it is blue (plug-j).

Looks like the green THW sensor to me.

stanprophet

I hate to tell you this, but it sounds like you have one cyliner that does not have compression.

CO 94 PU, listen to it crank in the video and tell me what you think. You seem to be pretty technical based on a lot of the help you give out.

ETA: It also appears that there is air pushing out of that vac leak at the EGR port. It kind of goes with the above. You might want to throw a compression tester on it. Pull all the plugs, and hold the throttle down, and let it get 4 good compression cycles on a gauge. And post the findings. I think you have a little more going on with that engine.

stanprophet

OP: If you were a little closer I would look at it for you. But you are deep in NC.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Stan,
I don't hear any major valve noises like any things frozen or bend. A little bit of backwards chuff would be normal, like when the crank settles it'll push a little bit out the intake. If that makes any sense. They do this when it stops on a compression stroke, that little 1/8-1/4 turn, you know what I mean.

Not really sure what to make of that chuffing noise and the lope, chuffing gets louder when on the Dside maybe just a loose plug.

Compression check:
Not a bad idea, it's not mentioned being done already that I can find. Will also give you a chance to check out the plugs aren't fouled, gapped properly and seated well.

Starting tips:
When you spray the starting fluid you need to hold the throttle open all the way. This is also the cold start proceedure from the owners manual. Your buddy pumping the throttle when he's cranking doesn't pump fuel into it like an old school carb'd system, he needs to hold it to the floor, this adds air and lets it breath easier.

Injector diagnostics:
I left off the ECU ground tests. You'll get a continuity to ground on an injector pin#2 when cranking. You can check this with a test lamp at the ECU ("#10" & "#20" are the pin names not numbers), clip to power and probe those pins (left side of the ECu pin diagrams IIRC). Light should flash.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Damn another PS. Double check that AFM plug isn't on upside down, divets on top bulges on the bottom. It's hard to be sure in the first video but it looks upside down maybe. And as a follow up since thats why I was watching that one again, I can hear all four compression strokes in that video.

rgraham13

found out the injectors werent clogged but i test lighted all the fuses under my dash, the first 3.. 20,15,20.. 15 (the middle) did not light up, the others did fine.. whats that mean, also, my check engine light doesnt come on, is it a bulb issue?

rgraham13

ok just googled the fuse box diagram, and its my efi fuse, the fuse isnt blown but it wont light up, i dunno wtf to do

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Start with the high power fusiblelinks you replaced with jumpers under the hood, AM1 and AM2, and ALT. In the videos I noticed the Alt one was a little weak, plenty big wire but looked like only one-two strands in the crimp connector. I'm assuming these are DIY but anyways.

Got power on both sides of all of these?

EFi fuse in the 80's models in bottom left of the #1 relay block, located in the drivers side kick panel. (Yeah you already know that but someone that shows up here under a search might not)



Verify power at Rb#1 pin 6 and Ignition switch pin #8 White-red wire.

Double check the AFM is pluged in correctly, it'll blow the efi fuse. Then replace the fuse.

Hopefully it'll start right up and you can

rgraham13

I just found the green wire under my driver seat and a blue wire from the harness the blue wire had been cut, and so did the green.. followed green wire underddriver side rear seat to a bundle of other wires just lying there

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Could be the o2 sensor wires, that'll blow the EFi also. Lemme poke around a sec in the wiring diagrams

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Gotta take a break that stuff set my hair on fire and such.

O2 is B, B-Y,Y-W,BR

There isn't anything supposed to be in the middle of the bed, closests thing would be the fuel tank wiring which does have a blue wire, but you said you get fuel pressure when jumpering the diag port so that can't be the wire that is used.

rgraham13

I'm talking out my computer and testing everything on it.. I traced the green efi fuse wire and It's good.. all I can think of is the computer

rgraham13

i tested the rb 1 box both 5 and 6 have no power, all the others to, the green wire i was chasing went nowhere, so im stuck still

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You've got some wiring gremlins for sure.

Verify you have power on pin8 of the ignition switch plug.This rules out a disconnect between Rb #2 and plug F1



Pretty sure you'll have power on the ignition switch. If not next check plug F1 pin 3, If you do unmount the relay block #1 and make sure the spade connectors for the fuse didn't just get shoved into the box.

The questionable wire is White-red, at the Rb#1 pin6, ignition switch pin8, and Rb#2 pin1.

rgraham13

i checked and i have power to pin 8.. i havent checkd anything else because i work out of town, but ill look into it