Sudstoy

Park on a steep incline running the engine with the rad cap off. Make sure you turn your heater on full. If fluid starts violently spewing out of the open rad chances are you have air. Make sure you wait untill it gets hot enough for the thermostat to open. As i am sure you know, make sure the rad cap is off before you get the engine warm because it tends to hurt opening a rad cap on a hot rad.

kyle156

update so i have recently burped the coolant got the air out and added some more i also changed the thermostat and switched the clutch fan out for one from a wrecker and now it doesnt foam the coolant anymore but it starts to run weird after a while of driving it starts to get hot and then it will idle at like 200 rpm and read almost no oil pressure i checked the oil level and it seemed good the temp gauge reads hot and i dont know what is causing this it seems like it is fine if i let it cool for a while but i drive it on the highway no problems but i get into town and stop signs lights etc it starts to run hot and hardly idle please help

kyle156

ps it would do this before it would get hot then it would idle at hardly any rpms and read no oil pressure but it would never read on the temp gauge that it was hot till after i changed the clutch fan so mayb i got a bad one from the wrecker but it seemed good almost better than the one i had could this mayb be a headgasket issue

ksti

Maybe try a radiator pressure test, and a block test for hydrocarbons. If they have autozones in BC you can rent or buy a test kit. Just a suggestion. I hope you can solve this.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I would immediately do a compression test.... Might do a leak down test as well. For oil to mix with coolant and manifest in the radiator, ......usually leans toward Head Gasket Failure.(But you're radiator fluid isn't brown, right? Gotta rule out oil getting into the coolant/ vice versus)

There are a couple other reasons that you could have foaming or intense overheating... Water pump failure, Radiator failure... BUT, if you've CONCLUSIVELY determined that YOU DID have oil in your radiator... there's only a couple things that could cause that. You have to determine whether you're having oil contaminate your coolant somehow. Very important. Oil in the coolant TOTALLY depletes the coolants ability to dissipate heat. It creates air pockets/foaming and can cause serious engine damage/failure.

If you DO NOT have oil in your coolant.... THEN, I might lean more toward a radiator failing. FORGET how clean it looks in the hole/rods from the top... that's NOT where they clog 95% of the time.

If I were you, I would pull that radiator and have ANY radiator shop 'pressure test it' (Or rent a pressure tester and do it yourself)

Place a stethoscope on the water pump while running and listen for 'WHEEEEEEEE' or bearing noise.... Even check to see if you have 'weeping out the weep hole' of the Water pump as well.

I REALLY want to lean away from HG, but I have to share an experience.... I drove 465 Miles with an early onset HG failure occuring..... By the time I pulled into Carpenteria Campground, I had steam POURING out of the tailpipe.... But not before then really. At IDLE, that's when it seemed to suffer worst. I didn't seem to have TOO Much power loss, either, while on the highway... But by the time I had stopped, the HG was really failing and I was done.(Walked to Kragen Auto parts and grabbed a HG and fixed it right at the beach. Guys brought me buckets, were all standing around talking and helping, hahaha. OH, btw, these guys?>>>STRANGERS! lol... That's how Toyota's bring ppl together, eh? lol).

I, too, have had this issue after flushing the coolant(thinking it would help, lol)... I must have dislodged something from somewhere, cuz it quickly overheated into the overflow and foamed up a lil bit. I replaced the failing water pump, and the BRAND NEW RUSHING PRESSURE....... FINALLY did in my radiator, lol. Once both were replaced, ... BEEN A COOL RUNNING CHAMP ever since! OF COURSE I don't want you to just go buy a radiator, hahaha... >>>

Yeah, have the radiator tested and listen for water pump issues/look to see if ANY coolant is escaping from the weep hole.

kyle156

rad fluid looks good i dunno about the rad probly gonna have it pressure tested some day problem is a shop is probly gonna charge me a cople hundred bucks to look at or pressure test it i do have access to a pressure tester at school but not unitl i go back in sept ive been thinkin a lot lately and im just going to sell it and be done with it has to many problems and i dont have enough time to try and troubleshoot it and also im tired of the awful gas mileage lol im more than likely gonna buy a little toyota car like a camry or tercel or somethin reliable with good gas mileage

kyle156

rad does apear to be aftermarket though think mayb a previous owner changed it out mayb its going bad i may if i buy a car take it out and have it tested etc just cant do it now cause i need my truck everyday

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Pressure test is no where near that much, OP.... I've had it done for 20$... 80$ to re-rod it fairly well... 200$ for a NEW radiator/OEM quality(at least here in L.A. where lots of top end parts stores exist. Call someone and ask?

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Get a hold of Slacker https://www.yotatech.com/members/13431.html ..he is semi local to you and runs toyota fiberglass..he has been in the toy business since dirt was old
he can either help you or direct you to local resources

90toy4x4

your saying you replaced your clutch with one from a wrecker, something like an f450?
Couldnt this cause an overheat issue? i would assume this would be a bad idea, since the fan on these big engines uses a different clutch than a smaller engine. Im just assuming, so someone correct me if im wrong!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I can't speak for the OP... but I THINK he meant "A wrecked Donor Yota" at a yard? Hopefully he can clear that up(what he got the fan clutch from)

I just feel like it's time for a leak down, man... CHEAP and quick test(all you need is COMPRESSED AIR)...

Sure, you could find with a 'flushing'-rerodding possibly, ... you're good to go. But wow, man... every time it overheats like that, ... well, if YOU DON'T have an issue with the HG or otherwise... You may, very soon, if you keep allowing it to overheat. You KNOW it's overheating.... so yoink that radiator and look up slacker or whomever(thanks, DZ! ) and have it tested. Heck, if you would allow the shop that's testing it to rerod it if needed, they'll SURELY pressure test it for free! Just do a lil research as to what's acceptable pressure reading and then WATCH THEM DO IT, ... and that way, if it's bad, you'll know it, and you can just ask them, right there, "how much?"....

ANY good radiator shop can actually fix most OEM Toyota Radiators to be like nearly brand new! Ya know? (IF they're fixable, of course, ... I realize that).

kyle156

got the fan from pic n pull off a similar year 4 runner

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, OP

Now what of the rest? What'cha gonna do? lol.

kyle156

gotta buy somethin to drive first before i can start to fix it but yeah probly gonna end up pullin the rad bring it to a rad shop and a new oem toyota rad from the stealership out here is 900 bucks

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, Canada is rough on some shipping and waiting for stuff's... But DON'T buy a dealership radiator, IF yours can't be re-rodded by a REPUTABLE SHOP, first off. Ya know? Just ask around and get connected with the Canadian Yota-Brotherhood, lol. There are MANY of you, so SOMEONE has to have a line on where to get one. Make sure your water pump is not weeping, too, like I mentioned, ok? A bad radiator or faulty one can take out a water pump pretty quick(not always, but ya know what I mean). If it's ok, fixing the radiator(if it's needed) will take a lot of pressure off the water pump and it'll likely last a lot longer if it's 'ok' for now, ya know? Those shops can also tell you if you have other blockages in the system.

Hopefully you don't need a HG... but honestly, I would do what I mentioned and just be done with it on a leak down test(find out if it's already compromised, ya know?) Either way, have the radiator tested, first... It's cheap and you will know for sure if it's at least part of the problem. But a leak down requires no 'running of the motor',... and even compression testing only requires you crank it over according to testing procedure... It wouldn't cause it to get hot any further and risk blowing the HG if you haven't already, right?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> good luck on the hunt for a dd/beater. I was told by the Guru's that the 92-95(?) Corolla motor is one of the most reliable/indestructible motors around. 1.6L I believe? Probably around 33mpg, too, ...so you'd save more toward fixing your rig, in the meantime, right?

kyle156

problem is i dont have a lot of money to spend so one of those corrolas is out of the question around here even with higk ks they go for quite a bit but yeah gonna buy a little beater fix my truck and sell it

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a plan, man. Best wishes on that.. Keep us informed as to how it goes.

ksti

I think if you fix your truck you'll end up keeping it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm, my lil Smiling Monkey Friend, hehehe..., he makes an interesting observation, and now I'm unsure of the 'either or' therein....

1. Is he buying a beater and then fixing up his 4Runner so he can sell the 4Runner?
2. Is he buying a beater to hold him over until he fixes his runner and then selling the beater?

Do tell, OP? lol.