Head Gasket Replacement 95 4runner SR5 3VZE
#41
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I havent bought the gaskets yet, but i was thinking of going with the engnbldr gasket set. I would like to go with mls gaskets but i dont want to pull out the block and resurface that. The heads are at the machine shop getting resurfaced, and a full valve job. They should be done this week hopefully.
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I havent bought the gaskets yet, but i was thinking of going with the engnbldr gasket set. I would like to go with mls gaskets but i dont want to pull out the block and resurface that. The heads are at the machine shop getting resurfaced, and a full valve job. They should be done this week hopefully.
So far with my low budget build has seen about 500 miles or so and it's doing great except for a small exhaust leak, leaking a bit of oil but that is my trans going out....oh joy....still havent found one yet.
#43
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One other thing I would do while you have the intake off is replace the metal coolant line that runs from the front to the back.
Mine has a patched up crack (rot) in the rear where part of it branches off. It cracked AFTER I had everything apart changing water pump and timing belt.
Mine has a patched up crack (rot) in the rear where part of it branches off. It cracked AFTER I had everything apart changing water pump and timing belt.
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One other thing I would do while you have the intake off is replace the metal coolant line that runs from the front to the back.
Mine has a patched up crack (rot) in the rear where part of it branches off. It cracked AFTER I had everything apart changing water pump and timing belt.
Mine has a patched up crack (rot) in the rear where part of it branches off. It cracked AFTER I had everything apart changing water pump and timing belt.
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys, I just blew my HG on my 95 wondering if there is anything specific to look out for. This is by far not my first rebuild but it is my first 3VZE, I just did the TB on it 2 weeks ago so I'm good with the front of the engine just seeing if there are any tricks to the intake/exhaust/cams/heads that aren't mentioned in this thread. Thank in advance.
#47
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ToyTank I would agree with Thor95 about replacing that water by-pass pipe while you're down there ... I'm replacing mine right now do to a good sized coolant leak underneath the intake manifold.
I ordered it here for $63 ...local dealer wanted $114
http://www.toyotapartseast.com/Page_...3611,3614,3615
I have a couple pics on my thread too that show the pipe.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-leak-249438/
Good luck!
I ordered it here for $63 ...local dealer wanted $114
http://www.toyotapartseast.com/Page_...3611,3614,3615
I have a couple pics on my thread too that show the pipe.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-leak-249438/
Good luck!
#48
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That Toyota link I put on here isn't working for some reason but look up your vehicle on that site and you can find "no. 1 water by-pass pipe" in the radiator & water outlet section
#49
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OP sorry to thread-jack but this seems like an appropriate place.
Thanks man, now I got another question, I talked to a buddy of mine who has had the pleasure of owning 3 3.slows and he tells me that judging by my symptoms its not a HG but rather an internal leak on the water passages of the lower plenum gasket, has anyone ever heard of this?
Symptoms:
Last night drive home from work, truck drives fine.
Get ready to leave about a hour later, start truck and produce huge cloud from the exhaust.
Add a bottle of BARs Stop Leak (temp fix) and smoke stops and does not come back, truck still drives fine.
Leaving Burger Joint after dinner, no smoke, CEL comes on code: 25 - O2 low output.
On the way to work today truck starts overheating while in stop and go traffic but quickly cools off when I start moving.
Leaving work I add about 1/4 gallon water to the radiator.
As soon as I hit traffic truck starts to overheat again when idling, BUT if sitting still I hold revs at 2k-3k the temp drops to normal.
5 miles from home pull into gas station and add about 1/2 gallon water.
Drive home with 0 problems?
I replaced the Timing Belt along with all of the components 2 weeks ago so I'm ruling out water pump and thermostat. I am going to get the CO test kit right now to see if there is exhaust in the coolant because there is no milkshake anywhere and it doesn't seem to be loosing power at all (whatever power a 3vze has lol) just coolant with not the slightest bit of smoke or steam from the exhaust. I'll get back with results. Thanks all.
Thanks man, now I got another question, I talked to a buddy of mine who has had the pleasure of owning 3 3.slows and he tells me that judging by my symptoms its not a HG but rather an internal leak on the water passages of the lower plenum gasket, has anyone ever heard of this?
Symptoms:
Last night drive home from work, truck drives fine.
Get ready to leave about a hour later, start truck and produce huge cloud from the exhaust.
Add a bottle of BARs Stop Leak (temp fix) and smoke stops and does not come back, truck still drives fine.
Leaving Burger Joint after dinner, no smoke, CEL comes on code: 25 - O2 low output.
On the way to work today truck starts overheating while in stop and go traffic but quickly cools off when I start moving.
Leaving work I add about 1/4 gallon water to the radiator.
As soon as I hit traffic truck starts to overheat again when idling, BUT if sitting still I hold revs at 2k-3k the temp drops to normal.
5 miles from home pull into gas station and add about 1/2 gallon water.
Drive home with 0 problems?
I replaced the Timing Belt along with all of the components 2 weeks ago so I'm ruling out water pump and thermostat. I am going to get the CO test kit right now to see if there is exhaust in the coolant because there is no milkshake anywhere and it doesn't seem to be loosing power at all (whatever power a 3vze has lol) just coolant with not the slightest bit of smoke or steam from the exhaust. I'll get back with results. Thanks all.
Last edited by ToyTank; 02-22-2012 at 03:32 PM.
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys, I just blew my HG on my 95 wondering if there is anything specific to look out for. This is by far not my first rebuild but it is my first 3VZE, I just did the TB on it 2 weeks ago so I'm good with the front of the engine just seeing if there are any tricks to the intake/exhaust/cams/heads that aren't mentioned in this thread. Thank in advance.
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OP sorry to thread-jack but this seems like an appropriate place.
Thanks man, now I got another question, I talked to a buddy of mine who has had the pleasure of owning 3 3.slows and he tells me that judging by my symptoms its not a HG but rather an internal leak on the water passages of the lower plenum gasket, has anyone ever heard of this?
Symptoms:
Last night drive home from work, truck drives fine.
Get ready to leave about a hour later, start truck and produce huge cloud from the exhaust.
Add a bottle of BARs Stop Leak (temp fix) and smoke stops and does not come back, truck still drives fine.
Leaving Burger Joint after dinner, no smoke, CEL comes on code: 25 - O2 low output.
On the way to work today truck starts overheating while in stop and go traffic but quickly cools off when I start moving.
Leaving work I add about 1/4 gallon water to the radiator.
As soon as I hit traffic truck starts to overheat again when idling, BUT if sitting still I hold revs at 2k-3k the temp drops to normal.
5 miles from home pull into gas station and add about 1/2 gallon water.
Drive home with 0 problems?
I replaced the Timing Belt along with all of the components 2 weeks ago so I'm ruling out water pump and thermostat. I am going to get the CO test kit right now to see if there is exhaust in the coolant because there is no milkshake anywhere and it doesn't seem to be loosing power at all (whatever power a 3vze has lol) just coolant with not the slightest bit of smoke or steam from the exhaust. I'll get back with results. Thanks all.
Thanks man, now I got another question, I talked to a buddy of mine who has had the pleasure of owning 3 3.slows and he tells me that judging by my symptoms its not a HG but rather an internal leak on the water passages of the lower plenum gasket, has anyone ever heard of this?
Symptoms:
Last night drive home from work, truck drives fine.
Get ready to leave about a hour later, start truck and produce huge cloud from the exhaust.
Add a bottle of BARs Stop Leak (temp fix) and smoke stops and does not come back, truck still drives fine.
Leaving Burger Joint after dinner, no smoke, CEL comes on code: 25 - O2 low output.
On the way to work today truck starts overheating while in stop and go traffic but quickly cools off when I start moving.
Leaving work I add about 1/4 gallon water to the radiator.
As soon as I hit traffic truck starts to overheat again when idling, BUT if sitting still I hold revs at 2k-3k the temp drops to normal.
5 miles from home pull into gas station and add about 1/2 gallon water.
Drive home with 0 problems?
I replaced the Timing Belt along with all of the components 2 weeks ago so I'm ruling out water pump and thermostat. I am going to get the CO test kit right now to see if there is exhaust in the coolant because there is no milkshake anywhere and it doesn't seem to be loosing power at all (whatever power a 3vze has lol) just coolant with not the slightest bit of smoke or steam from the exhaust. I'll get back with results. Thanks all.
#52
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies guys, I did the HG job this past weekend and I must say I want to castrate whoever engineered this engine, so many things could've been done better starting with the placement of a lot of nuts and bolts an ending with the infamous x-over pipe. It took me about a total of 20 hours start to finish (longest HG job I've ever done), I did use MLS gaskets and replaced all other accessible gaskets while I was in there. The tear-down and cleaning took 2/3 of the entire 20 hours. It seems to be running very well, a bit on the hot side but I haven't had a chance to flush the cooling system yet and am running on only water (distilled) until I get a couple hours to do a full on flush. Having done this now I can tell you about most of the roadblocks you'll encounter so if anyone has any questions please feel free to pm me. Thanks again for all the suggestion gents.
#53
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies guys, I did the HG job this past weekend and I must say I want to castrate whoever engineered this engine, so many things could've been done better starting with the placement of a lot of nuts and bolts an ending with the infamous x-over pipe. It took me about a total of 20 hours start to finish (longest HG job I've ever done), I did use MLS gaskets and replaced all other accessible gaskets while I was in there. The tear-down and cleaning took 2/3 of the entire 20 hours. It seems to be running very well, a bit on the hot side but I haven't had a chance to flush the cooling system yet and am running on only water (distilled) until I get a couple hours to do a full on flush. Having done this now I can tell you about most of the roadblocks you'll encounter so if anyone has any questions please feel free to pm me. Thanks again for all the suggestion gents.
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's an update on the rebuild....trust no mechanic!! haha ok ok I'm just upset about a shop called Candy Man Automotive or something in fontana california. My valves sound awful and the valve covers leak like crazy!! They even painted the aluminum heads grey or silverish grey. I'm pissed...I worked so hard on this thing to only have to eventually tear it apart and have the heads worked on properly. it runs good/ok ish...but there is a lot of clicking/chirping/clacking....its ugly. runs good besides a few thing, no smoke, no sweet exhaust smell, no leaks other than the valve covers which are really really bad. I spent a tremendous amount of time cleaning and prepping and slowly put it back together. didnt leak for a few weeks or months but it leaks so bad now...a quart of oil every few weeks.
I think the problem with the heads are the exhaust valve seating. I'm wondering if they did not check if they elongated....?....I have no experience with valves but from many many months listening and feeling out the noise thats what I think. My plan is to buy new or well rebuilt heads and swap them out on a weekend. then rebuild and sell my old ones to try and break even. good idea?
Any professional/experienced advice out there? I need help since I'm in a tight spot now.
My starter just went out...going to research that too...help please!!!!?????!!!!!???!!!
I think the problem with the heads are the exhaust valve seating. I'm wondering if they did not check if they elongated....?....I have no experience with valves but from many many months listening and feeling out the noise thats what I think. My plan is to buy new or well rebuilt heads and swap them out on a weekend. then rebuild and sell my old ones to try and break even. good idea?
Any professional/experienced advice out there? I need help since I'm in a tight spot now.
My starter just went out...going to research that too...help please!!!!?????!!!!!???!!!
#56
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: exo-reality -wave if you see me; Front Range, CO
Posts: 652
Received 93 Likes
on
73 Posts
Hey, SnowDrive.
How many miles did you put on it since the headgasket? You used the MLS gaskets, right? Never any problems?
I ask because I'd like to know. I've heard that you should have the deck and the heads milled when going to MLS. I had bunch of work done on my block in 2011, then ran into ring gap issues, and shortly thereafter moved. Never got a chance to finish the build.
(So, just using the 4R'r as as excuse to pay monthly rent on shop space 200 miles from here. Yeah, i know... not the brightest crayon in the box).
On other hand, would love to put in a 3.4 anyway. Hell may as just throw money at it now.
How many miles did you put on it since the headgasket? You used the MLS gaskets, right? Never any problems?
I ask because I'd like to know. I've heard that you should have the deck and the heads milled when going to MLS. I had bunch of work done on my block in 2011, then ran into ring gap issues, and shortly thereafter moved. Never got a chance to finish the build.
(So, just using the 4R'r as as excuse to pay monthly rent on shop space 200 miles from here. Yeah, i know... not the brightest crayon in the box).
On other hand, would love to put in a 3.4 anyway. Hell may as just throw money at it now.
#59
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I tried synthetic before and it didnt like it. I run heavy heavy heavy lucas 20w40 now. it runs good....just need to fix the speedometer guage so it runs the correct A/F mixture...and the oil leak out of the valve covers....be sure to use blue lock tight on those bolts
#60
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indio California
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
here's an update. Still running strong....havent touched the engine and still drive it daily. it does leak a lot of oil but I have been cleaning up and filling up every so often. annoying yes but I dont have the time or a spare car to fix this issue yet. I will have to kill all those birds on a three or four day weekend....sooner than later.
I have to hand it to these engines...I have driven an extensive amount of miles in blistering desert heat and treacherous snowy mountain roads with some issues restricting its performance and efficiency. I will never want to get rid of this 4runner since it has transported me and my little family safely all over Southern California while it is still in serious need of repairs. Thank you Toyota.
Here's a list of items/parts needing repair/replacement/maintenance:
-Tie Rods(super squirrely when breaking from high speeds)
-Steering Rod Relay (recall. dont know why I have lagged on this item Free Fix @dealer)
-4 Shocks(completely shot)
-Speedometer Cable(broken, causing major performance problems)
-Timing Belt Kit(way overdue and will run better for sure with new complete kit)
-PCV valve clogged(maybe causing Crank Case Gasses to push oil out of valve covers)
-Started died...rebuilt it but the contacts were toast so opted for new one. easy fix.
-O/D light does not come on but the A340E Trans shifts to all 4 gears.
Thats pretty much all of the major issues lingering over my head still....
It needs a lot of work but the fact that this baby will fire up first try EVERY time I need it is what counts. So far so good and by the grace of God I am still a live and making it to work everyday. I need a miracle to get this baby together so I can safely transport my daughter around too... God bless Toyota
I have to hand it to these engines...I have driven an extensive amount of miles in blistering desert heat and treacherous snowy mountain roads with some issues restricting its performance and efficiency. I will never want to get rid of this 4runner since it has transported me and my little family safely all over Southern California while it is still in serious need of repairs. Thank you Toyota.
Here's a list of items/parts needing repair/replacement/maintenance:
-Tie Rods(super squirrely when breaking from high speeds)
-Steering Rod Relay (recall. dont know why I have lagged on this item Free Fix @dealer)
-4 Shocks(completely shot)
-Speedometer Cable(broken, causing major performance problems)
-Timing Belt Kit(way overdue and will run better for sure with new complete kit)
-PCV valve clogged(maybe causing Crank Case Gasses to push oil out of valve covers)
-Started died...rebuilt it but the contacts were toast so opted for new one. easy fix.
-O/D light does not come on but the A340E Trans shifts to all 4 gears.
Thats pretty much all of the major issues lingering over my head still....
It needs a lot of work but the fact that this baby will fire up first try EVERY time I need it is what counts. So far so good and by the grace of God I am still a live and making it to work everyday. I need a miracle to get this baby together so I can safely transport my daughter around too... God bless Toyota