Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

fuel smell in exhaust, smoke, and fouling plugs after head gasket repair and headers

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-29-2013, 12:43 PM
  #21  
Registered User
 
Cyberman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dillsburg, PA
Posts: 954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This might be a pain, but did you try putting the old injectors back in?
Old 11-29-2013, 02:23 PM
  #22  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So I put everything back together and got it timed probably 12 btdc maybe? When i throttle it, it jumps all over the place, is that normal?

It seems to run OK during warm up but once it hits running temperatures if i give it gas it wants to die as the RPMS fall back down.

I still have the O2 sensor to replace tomorrow so I guess I will see what that does. I'm also going to try the 5 - 6 times running from cold to warm to see if the fuel consumption levels out.
Old 11-29-2013, 02:25 PM
  #23  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I haven't tried the old injectors yet, I did test them for ohms and clicking and they all functioned OK. I broke some of the caps that went over the spraying end, if someone can confirm that isn't going to cause any issues then I will try putting my old injectors back in as my next step if it still doesn't resolve.

Could a leak on the headers be causing this? IE sucking in extra air on #6 only and causing the vehicle to adjust by running too rich? That lower #6 bolt was a huge pain, I'm pretty confident I got it but I wasn't able to get a cheater bar on it.
Old 11-29-2013, 02:40 PM
  #24  
Registered User
 
Cyberman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dillsburg, PA
Posts: 954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Although those injectors work electrically, they sound like they are dumping in too much fuel. Trying to time it might be useless, because the ecm is trying to change the timing to compensate the rich condition.

That is why I suggested putting the stock injectors back in. I read where someone else had issues with flamethrowers.
Old 11-30-2013, 08:05 AM
  #25  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So new oxygen sensor installed.. wouldn't idle without gas from cold didn't want to warm up either.

I don't think its related to the oxygen sensor although last night it was at least staying on.

I think it is time to get rid of the flamethrowers.
Old 11-30-2013, 10:07 AM
  #26  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well i decided to give it one more try, double checked some exhaust bolts and fired it up with the new o2 sensor. It finally seemed to stop smoking as much, but still wants to die after i take it around the block a few times. I'm getting some backfires still.

I've got it at about 20* btdc and the idle screw pretty backed out and it was idle at about 800. I'm going to let it cool all the way down and see if it improves each time.
Old 11-30-2013, 11:08 AM
  #27  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So started back up, and it was idle around 500 after it warmed up a little. I don't understand how the timing can keep changing on its own.

What could be causing that? The distributor itself?
Old 11-30-2013, 11:18 AM
  #28  
Registered User
 
combatcarl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Springfield, Orygun
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Not trying to insult your intelligence, but you DID jumper the test connector to set timing?
Old 11-30-2013, 11:20 AM
  #29  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well if i knew what that meant I would maybe be offended. So can you explain what that means.
Old 11-30-2013, 11:28 AM
  #30  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
TE1 to E1?
Old 11-30-2013, 12:08 PM
  #31  
Registered User
 
combatcarl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Springfield, Orygun
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Yeah. Got to be warmed up, ( I know that's hard right now) idling in P. paperclip across E1-Te1. Should hear idle drop a little.
Old 11-30-2013, 12:54 PM
  #32  
Registered User
 
Discombobulated's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 2,277
Received 222 Likes on 163 Posts
I sent mine out to witchhunter to get cleaned up and he put new caps in, they broke also.

Not sure if the broken cap will effect anything but I figured since I had them out and my truck ran it was a good idea to send them out with no downtime. Since I didn't want to re-do anything I figured money well spent knowing they are cleaned and tested since it's all apart anyway.
Old 11-30-2013, 01:16 PM
  #33  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yeah so when i jumped e1 to te1 the CEL flashed so it was right.

I let the vehicle warm up and was at about 10* btdc, hooked up the jumper and not really a change in timing. I have the distributor all the way to the right for it to be at 10 degrees. I can move it to the left and it goes way past 20* but seems to run better.
Old 11-30-2013, 02:46 PM
  #34  
Registered User
 
combatcarl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Springfield, Orygun
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I don't know on a 3veezy if a tooth off will do that or not. What I mean is you could be a tooth off on alignment of dist to drive gear. Did the idle drop at all when jumpered? You should hear it drop, maybe 1-200 rpm. If not, then your TPS might be out of adjustment. I'm not terribly familiar with the V6 engines from our trucks.

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone
Old 11-30-2013, 03:17 PM
  #35  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm about 30 minutes away from swapping back to the stock injectors. Some of the caps are not on anymore but I can't see where that would affect much.

I've got new seals for the top and bottom of the injectors so I will be using those.

My issues remain the same, runs OK cold until it gets warm then starts to idle rough and eventually fouls out the plugs. I was hoping that the fuel issue would resolve itself but it doesn't seem to be moving in that direction.

I think the timing has been set correctly so I'm moving away from that being the issue. Can someone tell me if they think the distributor could be off a tooth, and would that cause this issue? I'm able to get things to line up to 10* BTDC with my timing gun so I don't think its off a tooth.
Old 11-30-2013, 03:49 PM
  #36  
Registered User
 
combatcarl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Springfield, Orygun
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Ok. Just a double check. If you can get 10* with your gun, it probably good. And it will move around (advance) without the jumper in. Runs good cold, not hot, maybe pull the coolant temp sender and see if it's giving the right values?

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone
Old 11-30-2013, 05:00 PM
  #37  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Don't judge me for this.

I took out the flamethrowers. To test one of them, I connected a hose to the fuel entry end and filled it up with a little gas. I then proceeded to create pressure on the hose with my mouth as I used a 9v to hit the connectors. The first and only one I tried - One side sprayed a little line the other dripped. Followed by both of them dripping each time i hit it with the battery.

Now I don't think 9v is the correct battery size to use on these does that confirm that flamethrower could very well be causing my issues?
Old 11-30-2013, 05:15 PM
  #38  
Registered User
 
combatcarl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Springfield, Orygun
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Maybe, I'd imagine they'd at least try to pattern Like an injector should, but I know the working pressure is a lot higher that mouth pressure. (?) free bump, though. Here, bump bump.

Sent from my NSA screened iPhone
Old 11-30-2013, 06:05 PM
  #39  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
VT94Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Blacksburg, Virginia
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So i picked up a cheap syring and had some hose laying around, i made a little pressure tester for the flamethrowers. filled with injector cleaner and tested with my trusty 9v.

Three of them performed perfectly, two even streams squirting out on each each with the 9v battery.

Two of them performed correctly but in between touches dripped gas

One of them shot gas out when it felt like it, otherwise just dripped when it was touched.
Old 11-30-2013, 07:38 PM
  #40  
FormerVendor
 
Flame Thrower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
if the gray top injectors sat for more than 60 days, you might have problems. we have an ongoing issue with the polyetheramine we use as a cleaner gelling up when they are in storage too long and possibly eating away at the internal injector springs.


Quick Reply: fuel smell in exhaust, smoke, and fouling plugs after head gasket repair and headers



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:30 PM.