xxxtreme22r

lol mine does that too I have to blip the throttle a few times to keep it running when it's really cold, but that carbs for ya.

runnerfreak88

ya im leaving for work right now but i went the electric route when i get back i can post up what i did and what worked for me and what didnt lol might help

JonnyBoy

xxxtreme, you should have:

primary idle-60
secondary idle-50
main jets(both)140
primary air corrector-170
secondary air corrector-160
pump jet-50(and only shoots into the primary bore)

That's what's listed for the DGEV/DGAV and what came in mine.
I have a stock cam(far as I know) and just a header as far as performance mods, when I had best adjustment with the 60 idle jet, I was 3 1/2 turns out. Here's what I'm at now

primary idle-65
secondary idle-55(figured the main was too small, bump the secondary too)
primary main jet-135(high elevation, seems ok so far)
secondary main jet-140
primary air corrector-170(I think I want a 160 here, too though)
secondary air corrector-160
pump jet-55, single

Here's a pretty good tuning guide for the mains and air correctors, even if it does seem to be for a little race tuned MG or something.
http://www.scuderiatopolino.com/User...retorsrev2.pdf
Haven't figured out how lean/rich I should go on the mains yet, though...one day I might get an a/f meter and get it all dialed perfectly.

runnerfreak88

So weird how from engine to engine and carb to carb some people need larger and some smaller jets

runnerfreak88

That's a very good link I have ran across a few too that were really good they all need to be gathered one place for an unlitame weber tuning guide lol

JonnyBoy

I'm getting towards that, but it'll be just 32/36 stuff. I'm kinda tempted now to do a sync link kit that makes the 32/36 open both barrels at once like the 38's...dang ideas you get from researching!

runnerfreak88

Ya i think we need a 32/36 tuning sticky there's alot of really good guids about it in Opel and mg forums

xxxtreme22r

That's already been done, thinking of this as well.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=6942

xxxtreme22r

I am 20 over, block shaved 10 thous, brand new stock style head with an EB 268, downey header and 2.25" no cat with a thrush turbo.

iamsuperbleeder

wish I would have found that when I had my 32/36

runnerfreak88

hmm that synchro kit looks cool how much of a decrease in mpg you think it would give you, and how much more oomph lol. would you have to rework your jetting ? maybe decrease the secondaries a little?

xxxtreme22r

I've heard good thing and bad things about that thing. One of them being that it can be hell trying to tune the jets to syncro the 32/36. But on these motors I think once it is it would be more responsive than the 38 in which can be a beast to tune on these as well unless your running a big cam and a 20/22 hybrid with high compression that is gonna require alot of fuel.

JonnyBoy

I'm leaning towards the sync link even more after messing with my carb a lil more today...it was pretty flat at highway speeds, no real acceleration when with the last jet setup I did have some. Also thought to check out the progressive linkage on there, and it doesn't even engage my secondary when I have it floored! It doesn't have any vacuum operation to it too, does it?

As for the sync link, I was already thinking of either Pegasus or the kit from Pierce manifolds. Gonna do more research on it...

runnerfreak88

If I'm reading it right your flat acceleration is probaly from your secondary not opening and no I don't believe it is vacuum operated when I had mine off the truck It was all being opened by moving the throttle

JonnyBoy

Not all of the flatness is that. Had some extra time at a buddy's house before we went for a short Thanksgiving wheeling run and I went back to a 140 primary main and a 145 secondary main. Not that the secondary main matters, I guess. Definitely gonna get a sync link kit now.