Engine Trouble Code (14)
07-16-2021, 05:39 PM
#21
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Code14 (engine light)
hi there i'm encountering the same code and my rav4 1zz fe toyota was down for more than 12 months, even after i replaced the coil, after a week same issue(code) persist, even after replacing all 4 coils the issue still persist, appreciate if anyone can advise on the fix or how to diagnose wiring failure.thank you
07-17-2021, 12:25 PM
#22
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Not saying it's not the same, but a code 14 on a Rav4 might not be indicating the same trouble as a code 14 on a 4Runner. Heck, it may not be the same as a code 14 on an 87 4Runner, or as on a 95 4Runner.
Best would be to check the Rav4 forums for a digital PDF copy of the FSM you can download, and verify just exactly what code 14 indicates on a Rav4.
Having said that, if you replaced all 4 coils, and yet the problem still exists, you might consider either checking the plug wires, or replacing them entirely. A quick, easy check of the wires is to open the hood at night, in the darkest place you can find, and I mean black as the inside of a criminal's heart, and look for lightning coming from the plug wires. Small little sparks flashing from any wire to ANYthing made of metal anywhere around the wires. If you see even the smallest spark, anywhere, replace the wires.
You might also consider replacing the plugs. They don't last forever. Again, check the book for the OEM plugs. They work the best with our truck's electrical systems. Having said that, I've gotten more than 100,000 miles in my pickup with Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. HOWEVER, Bosch tends to make parts for European vehicles, not Japanese ones. Think about it. The newer the Toyota truck, the more sensitive to OEM vs non-OEM parts it grows. Nowadays I only recommend OEM for ALL trucks.
Also, check all the ground wires in the engine compartment, especially any ground wire between the head(s) and the body. Both ends must be clean, bare metal, both the wire's o-rings, and what they bolt into. Ground wires tend to build up corrosion where they meet the body, causing much increased resistance. No decent ground, no good spark.
Also, ensure the ground cable between the body and the battery is in good shape. Toyota uses lousy battery terminals. They crack, making for a bad connection. Also, since the ends of the wires connected to the terminals are wide open, they can build up bad corrosion under the insulation. Regular, lead/acid batteries outgas an acid mist that gets inside the insulation, causing the wire strands to break. Bad ground connection results. ESPECIALLY when the wires are just stripped, and bolted to the terminal somehow.
A couple of things that help this situation are, first, to use the Optima type "gel-cell" batteries. They don't produce the acid mist the way a regular, lead/acid battery does.
Second, change the terminals to the Marine type. First, they are the old style, heavy lead terminals, which last a lot longer than the thin metal terminals Toyota uses. Second, they have a screw post standing straight up off of them, that the wires go on. Put a ring terminal on any wire hooked directly to the battery terminals, and they just slip down the screw post, which has a wing nut to hold everything down. Makes YOUR life much easier if you need to pull the wires off the battery. Couple Marine terminals with gel-cell battery, and you can pretty much kiss terminal corrosion and failed cables goodbye.
When you put the ring terminal on the wire, put a piece of "meltwall", or FIT-300 type, heatshrink onto the wire first. Once the ring terminal is crimped, slide the heatshrink down onto it, and shrink it down. Use a heat-gun made for electrical applications, NOT a paint stripper type heat gun. Those will cook the heatshrink, causing it to fail. It has an inner liner, which will melt, and flow all around what the heatshrink is shrunk around, and seal it all up, preventing corrosion under the insulation. REAL good stuff to use, especially in the engine compartment, or under the truck. Keeps all the nastyness out from the inside of the wires.
The meltwall heatshrink is fairly readily available. I get mine from the McMaster-Carr catalogue on line. Not very expensive at all.
Good luck to you. Just so you know, I don't much care for the Rav4 body. To me, it looks like it has a fat butt. Just me, though
Pat☺
Best would be to check the Rav4 forums for a digital PDF copy of the FSM you can download, and verify just exactly what code 14 indicates on a Rav4.
Having said that, if you replaced all 4 coils, and yet the problem still exists, you might consider either checking the plug wires, or replacing them entirely. A quick, easy check of the wires is to open the hood at night, in the darkest place you can find, and I mean black as the inside of a criminal's heart, and look for lightning coming from the plug wires. Small little sparks flashing from any wire to ANYthing made of metal anywhere around the wires. If you see even the smallest spark, anywhere, replace the wires.
You might also consider replacing the plugs. They don't last forever. Again, check the book for the OEM plugs. They work the best with our truck's electrical systems. Having said that, I've gotten more than 100,000 miles in my pickup with Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. HOWEVER, Bosch tends to make parts for European vehicles, not Japanese ones. Think about it. The newer the Toyota truck, the more sensitive to OEM vs non-OEM parts it grows. Nowadays I only recommend OEM for ALL trucks.
Also, check all the ground wires in the engine compartment, especially any ground wire between the head(s) and the body. Both ends must be clean, bare metal, both the wire's o-rings, and what they bolt into. Ground wires tend to build up corrosion where they meet the body, causing much increased resistance. No decent ground, no good spark.
Also, ensure the ground cable between the body and the battery is in good shape. Toyota uses lousy battery terminals. They crack, making for a bad connection. Also, since the ends of the wires connected to the terminals are wide open, they can build up bad corrosion under the insulation. Regular, lead/acid batteries outgas an acid mist that gets inside the insulation, causing the wire strands to break. Bad ground connection results. ESPECIALLY when the wires are just stripped, and bolted to the terminal somehow.
A couple of things that help this situation are, first, to use the Optima type "gel-cell" batteries. They don't produce the acid mist the way a regular, lead/acid battery does.
Second, change the terminals to the Marine type. First, they are the old style, heavy lead terminals, which last a lot longer than the thin metal terminals Toyota uses. Second, they have a screw post standing straight up off of them, that the wires go on. Put a ring terminal on any wire hooked directly to the battery terminals, and they just slip down the screw post, which has a wing nut to hold everything down. Makes YOUR life much easier if you need to pull the wires off the battery. Couple Marine terminals with gel-cell battery, and you can pretty much kiss terminal corrosion and failed cables goodbye.
When you put the ring terminal on the wire, put a piece of "meltwall", or FIT-300 type, heatshrink onto the wire first. Once the ring terminal is crimped, slide the heatshrink down onto it, and shrink it down. Use a heat-gun made for electrical applications, NOT a paint stripper type heat gun. Those will cook the heatshrink, causing it to fail. It has an inner liner, which will melt, and flow all around what the heatshrink is shrunk around, and seal it all up, preventing corrosion under the insulation. REAL good stuff to use, especially in the engine compartment, or under the truck. Keeps all the nastyness out from the inside of the wires.
The meltwall heatshrink is fairly readily available. I get mine from the McMaster-Carr catalogue on line. Not very expensive at all.
Good luck to you. Just so you know, I don't much care for the Rav4 body. To me, it looks like it has a fat butt. Just me, though
Pat☺
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