Chrillex

Hello, I hope someone can give me some help!

So when i was trying to track down a really annoying whistling sound comming from the exhaust area i noticed that someone (previous owner) had done an air injection and EGR delete, but the delete had not been done properly. :con: They had only removed all the stuff and didn't plug the holes in the manifold for the air injection. Anyway, to get it to pass the emissions test here in Sweden they welded 2 extra catalytic converters to the exhaust system (somehow it worked), creating a pretty substansial back preassure and loss of power. So I am trying to undo all of this mess, but first i gotta find all the parts for the emissions system. So can anybody be so kind and tell me all the parts i will need for the air injection and EGR for the 22RE it would be lovely! I'll include a picture of my engine bay, and you will probably see that a lot of stuff is missing...

Thank you and it would be wonderful if i could recieve som help :) ​​​​​​​

Jimkola

If you post the model # off that plate on the firewall, along with the production date off the door jam vin plate I can post schematics of the systems

Chrillex

I couldn’t find the year of production anywhere, but since my car is from sweden it might not apply anyway for your diagram anyway…? Got the Vin nr here anyway…

could it be that some 22re were shipped without the air injection?

Jimkola

The model# should be enough for now (Rn110L-CRMDEW). That’s useful to have, I’d record it somewhere.

The first image is the EGR valve and modulator
Rhe second picture is the vacuum tubing, BVSV valve, and vacuum switches. The one part, 17630, goes to the power steering pump. It has nothing to do with EGR.

Jimkola

The vacuum tubing is easy, as long as you’re patient and methodical.
if you look at the vacuum ports on the throttle body you’ll see letters stamped next to each one. Now go look at your EGR modulator valve. You’ll see the same letters. So plug the one port from the throttle body into the rail. Follow that one rail to the end, then plug the mod valve with the matching letter.

Chrillex

Thank you so much!!

but by looking at my exhaust manifold, it doesn’t seem to have any holes for the air injection? Also if you look at the egr valve up to the far left it does not have the electronic contact that i have seen other people remove in videos when doing a delete…? Could my truck had been delivered without the air injection? The back plate for the egr is still present…🤔 the hole for the suction tube exists but it looks almost factory plugged, all though you can se that the tube is clearly missing below the air intake…







Plug at the place i think the suction tube would go

Egr actuator valve thing?

Rear egr piece (yes a lot of oil, was a leaky valve cover gasket that’s been replaced now)

Chrillex

Found it’s a 1996 (hilux not tacoma)! Seems like they changed the system after 94 then maybe?🤔

Jimkola

I show no air injection after 1994 for the 22RE

Chrillex

Hmm interesting! Went out and looked and my engine still has some type of EGR it just looks so different from what i had seen on youtube, that’s why i didn’t recognize the parts, and thought it was a badly done egr and air injection delete😅

Is there any way to test the egr system? Otherwise i might have to see if it’s just the original catalytic converter that’s bad🤔

Jimkola

You can hook a vacuum pump up to the egr valve and see if it holds vacuum. The EGR valve was prone to get clogged with carbon. Soaking it with brake cleaner, then cleaning the passage with a pipe cleaner usually does the trick.

Chrillex

Thank you for the help! Got it confirmed by a mechanic that the 22re engines they used for the 95-97 hilux are slightly different and redesigned, and so the air suction system is removed✌🏻

snippits

EGR valve works on vacuum...no electronics. The EGR valve on my 92 22RE was about 80% clogged with hard carbon. I used carb cleaner, and a flat head screw driver to chip away the hard carbon. The carbon build up was especially bad on the EGR tube.

Jimkola

Nice.
The VIN number (not to be confused with the model#) is full of useful information, too. In a vin, the actual serial number is really the only last 6-8 numbers. everything in front of that is describing the vehicle. In the USA one of those characters gives the model year.
In the USA we could take the VIN number and go to the dealer where they could run it through the U.S. database and get a lot of info on that vehicle. We can also go to Toyota.com(USA, again)and run it. You might try that with your country's database. Having the production date is very useful.
There are a few sites that give very good parts diagrams like the ones I sent earlier. EPC-data.com and Amayama.com. Both are worth exploring. When searching for a part, if you have the oem part number you'll have much better search results; both in quantity and quality. Both use the model# to determine your application.

Chrillex

Thank you everyone for the help!

I found a website for looking up parts by entering the VIN. I already had the date of production on my registration, but when you asked for the year of production on the door panel i thought maybe there would be some extra information there or something! Anyway, will test the EGR and also replace the catalytic converter. I also seem to have an exhaust leak beneath the exhaust manifold. Itīs making a really annoying whistling sound from that area, sounds like a turbo whistle (but i don't have a turbo). I have ordered a new oem toyota one, should be here in a week or two... (i live in northern sweden so delivery takes a looong time) I will also see if i can have the manifold re - surficed. I hope that solves the whistling sound problem, because itīs really starting to annoy me.
Another question - where the head meets the block, the head gasket seems to have "squeezed out" (you can see what looks like gasket material to the right in the image). From what i can tell, the head and the block does not have completely straight sides from factory, but rather some "curves" in it? Sort of looks like the HG has broken apart where it whas "outside" of the block/head from factory, if that makes sense? Problably from exhaust gasket leaking heat. Anyway, i donīt have any symptoms of a bad head gasket, and i have also done the combustion gas in coolant test, but it showed no signs of any combustion. But would it be time to replace it soon by the looks of it? The car only has around 80k miles on it, so feels kinda early for it to give out, all though the truck had been sitting for almost 7 years is before i got it... Here is a picture from below the exaust manifold, taken from the back of the engine (so cyl 3, and 4).

I think the oil resedue is from a real bad leaky valve cover gasket i had before. I have replaced it and wiped off the oil where i could reach (for now), and havent seen more leaks since, but might have a leak somewhere else also, gonna check it out more properly once removing the exhaust manifold.

Thanks again!

You can se the really bad exhaust manifold gasket - could this be making a whistling sound? Not rly present at idle, but when i rev or accelerate. Also does the HG look bad juding by the picture?