Cold Start Injector / ECT / hard warm start
09-18-2010, 10:33 PM
#21
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Something like.....? Could you get more specific and definite? What setting is your meter on when you're testing? And, at what temperature are you testing?
Last edited by thook; 09-18-2010 at 10:35 PM.
09-19-2010, 09:36 AM
#24
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cool thanks, its a dmm, set on auto. cleaned the contacts...no more than a ohm.
so i adjusted it(iav) and was putting it back in and found somthing very interesting. a huge crack in the intake tube, that would cause unmetered air to enter the intake. idles much better and runs better. but..cant start w/o giving it gas. took out ecu fuse to recalibrate(or relearn).
did that and started this morning, its like 63º out side, no gas and it started but barley idles (500 rpm). i think this is because of that valve, but 63ºis pretty warm..
so i adjusted it(iav) and was putting it back in and found somthing very interesting. a huge crack in the intake tube, that would cause unmetered air to enter the intake. idles much better and runs better. but..cant start w/o giving it gas. took out ecu fuse to recalibrate(or relearn).
did that and started this morning, its like 63º out side, no gas and it started but barley idles (500 rpm). i think this is because of that valve, but 63ºis pretty warm..
Last edited by humboldtMUD; 09-19-2010 at 09:41 AM.
09-19-2010, 09:43 AM
#26
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ha thats exactly what i did! i dont know what possesed me to do it but last night before i put the tube on i covered one side w/ my hand and blew through it and found that crack
09-19-2010, 09:57 AM
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do, you have that stupid ground wire bolted down to your intake.. i forgot to put mine on, when i changed out my fuel injector o-rings, i was puzzled for almost 2hrs.. then i had to restort back to my pictures.. and it was quite evedent that i left it off.
i could only get truck to run with my foot on the pedal, and as soon as i let it off it would die out..
i dont know if this is going to help you at all, but its good advice...
i could only get truck to run with my foot on the pedal, and as soon as i let it off it would die out..
i dont know if this is going to help you at all, but its good advice...
09-19-2010, 10:53 AM
#29
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cool thanks, its a dmm, set on auto. cleaned the contacts...no more than a ohm.
so i adjusted it(iav) and was putting it back in and found somthing very interesting. a huge crack in the intake tube, that would cause unmetered air to enter the intake. idles much better and runs better. but..cant start w/o giving it gas. took out ecu fuse to recalibrate(or relearn).
did that and started this morning, its like 63º out side, no gas and it started but barley idles (500 rpm). i think this is because of that valve, but 63ºis pretty warm..
so i adjusted it(iav) and was putting it back in and found somthing very interesting. a huge crack in the intake tube, that would cause unmetered air to enter the intake. idles much better and runs better. but..cant start w/o giving it gas. took out ecu fuse to recalibrate(or relearn).
did that and started this morning, its like 63º out side, no gas and it started but barley idles (500 rpm). i think this is because of that valve, but 63ºis pretty warm..
63* is still cool enough to activate the CSI system and necessitate the IAV. What year is your 4rnr?
09-19-2010, 01:43 PM
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its an 88, rig has 240,000 miles(new engine, tranny etc), so no doubt its burned out. the way its acting id say i need a new one. saw a bosch for like $150, but honestly i will replace once i cant take it anymore. thanks for the info thook, wouldnt have figured this out w/o this thread
09-19-2010, 01:51 PM
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thinking the csi timer isnt working either, but need to test. need to check voltage at the cs timer when cold. when checking the cs timer(switch) book says below 50º 30-50ohm (STA and STJ at ecu) and above 77º 70-90ohm. guess theres a bit of a fudge factor when the thing does and doesnt come on...?
09-19-2010, 01:51 PM
#32
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Okay, dang it.......you posted this before I could post up my reply:
You've confused me (see highlighted text). If you're saying "csi timer isn't working "either" and "need to test", then what did you test before that you only got less than an ohm?
(Disregard this until later, I suppose)You can bypass the doodad, ya know? Wire the connector with one wire to a toggle and then from the toggle to the battery ground or equivalent.
thinking the csi timer isnt working either, but need to test. need to check voltage at the cs timer when cold. when checking the cs timer(switch) book says below 50º 30-50ohm (STA and STJ at ecu) and above 77º 70-90ohm. guess theres a bit of a fudge factor when the thing does and doesnt come on...?
(Disregard this until later, I suppose)You can bypass the doodad, ya know? Wire the connector with one wire to a toggle and then from the toggle to the battery ground or equivalent.
Last edited by thook; 09-19-2010 at 01:56 PM.
09-19-2010, 01:54 PM
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yea i was reading that on another thread somewhere. dont get me wrong i like having the control of a toggle(did that to my ford(throttle advance on diesel)), but i think in this case i may want to do it right
09-19-2010, 02:04 PM
#36
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Oh, you tested the heater element on your idle air valve. Okay.....<<whew>>
You can't bypass that. You can bypass the time switch, though. And, I thought that's what you were testing before as it has heater element in it, as well.
Anyway, the resistance in the time switch will be different when it's cold and when it's hot. The thing works in two ways; there's an internal heater to heat it quickly when cranking so the injector doesn't continually run. The internal contacts open when it is heated so as to break the circuit ground. The elements are also sensitive to coolant temp, though, so after you've been driving around and the motor's warm and then go to restart, the circuit is open so the injector doesn't ground and operate unnecessarily. So, it's not a fudge factor, it's just designed so the switch is closed and opens according to temp. Hence the resistance of the elements will be different.
You can't bypass that. You can bypass the time switch, though. And, I thought that's what you were testing before as it has heater element in it, as well.
Anyway, the resistance in the time switch will be different when it's cold and when it's hot. The thing works in two ways; there's an internal heater to heat it quickly when cranking so the injector doesn't continually run. The internal contacts open when it is heated so as to break the circuit ground. The elements are also sensitive to coolant temp, though, so after you've been driving around and the motor's warm and then go to restart, the circuit is open so the injector doesn't ground and operate unnecessarily. So, it's not a fudge factor, it's just designed so the switch is closed and opens according to temp. Hence the resistance of the elements will be different.
09-19-2010, 02:06 PM
#37
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I was offering the suggestion in lieu of having a replacement immediately.
09-19-2010, 02:08 PM
#38
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Would you like for me to explain the CSI circuit? Is this what you're having trouble understanding.......how it works?
09-19-2010, 02:12 PM
#39
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no i certainly understand what it does and the component functions. thanks tho. right off the bat i tested STA (time switch) - ground (book says anytimen should be 30-90 ohm) i got 158ohm. so im assuming the coil is bad at the switch.
