Clutch pedal bracket reinforcement pic request
11-26-2013, 07:21 AM
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Clutch pedal bracket reinforcement pic request
Like many other owners, my clutch pedal bracket had cracked last week and to get home I layed some booger welds in my shop to get me home. After work I'm gonna pull it out and re weld it. I need some pics of where you guys have reinforced the bracket to keep from cracking again(if you have please post up) thanks guys. I appreciate it.
11-26-2013, 04:20 PM
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So I've done more and more research on this. Apparently it's a pretty common problem. PO actually welded one piece into place, but not well and it actually pulled the firewall in the cowl and cracked it. The bracket actually bolts to a mount which is welded to the cowl. Whoever did this was a total dummy. I have no real way of pulling it out short of removing the whole dash and cutting it out and re-welding it all back into place. So if any of you have ever had this happen PLEASE pull your cowl cover and check in the furthest hole on the drivers side to be sure this wasn't actually the problem which allowed the flex to crack the clutch bracket. I hope you all read this and know that it's a possibility.
11-26-2013, 10:21 PM
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This is most commonly happens to the taller people who cannot sit back far enough and there legs are bent and push from the side diagonal to the peddle, less to ext cab pickup as the seats move an extra 2" back.
I have gone though 3 brackets myself and come up with 4 preventions and not had a problem since then.
First fix your cracked bracket good or buy another.
1. Make a plate 3/32" that follows the contour of the top of the bracket where the single bolt mounts the bracket to the upper firewall all the to and down the backside and around the spacer that goes up against the firewall.
Use 3 bolts to mount the plate, 1 on the back aligned with the upper firewall spacer and 2 on the top near where the upper firewall bolt is.
This stops a lot of the flexing.
2. run a thick brace from the doorjam area above the fusebox (there is boltholes already there) to the clutch switch (Don't remember if that is the OD disable or the clutchstart), This also helps stop bracket deflection but does not work alone (I know)
3. Cut off the upper bolt mount and drill a 3/8-1/2" hole straight up into the whiper pushrod section and run a bolt (2" long) through in order (Bolt-washer (Lots of sealant) firewall-washer (Lots of sealant) nut, Then another nut-washer-bracket-washer-nut order.
All washers are 1.25-2".
This locks the bracket into place vary well.
4. This helps protect the firewall from stress breakage, Use some large washers or spacers that will go over the master cylinder bolt spacers up to the same thickness and that don't cover the main pass through hole.
I made my own on my lathe with 1.25" alu barstock I had laying around.
Here is some pictures of mine.
Also there are some variants to what I did with mine as you see, The big bolt and washer on the back of the bracket was something I already had from the past cracked brackets and I just wanted overkill.
Also you will see in the center picture that the bracket installed with the brace to the door jam but also that I haven't used the big vertical bolt seen in the first picture since the truck I just installed it into hasn't broke off the upper mounting tab (yet).
I have gone though 3 brackets myself and come up with 4 preventions and not had a problem since then.
First fix your cracked bracket good or buy another.
1. Make a plate 3/32" that follows the contour of the top of the bracket where the single bolt mounts the bracket to the upper firewall all the to and down the backside and around the spacer that goes up against the firewall.
Use 3 bolts to mount the plate, 1 on the back aligned with the upper firewall spacer and 2 on the top near where the upper firewall bolt is.
This stops a lot of the flexing.
2. run a thick brace from the doorjam area above the fusebox (there is boltholes already there) to the clutch switch (Don't remember if that is the OD disable or the clutchstart), This also helps stop bracket deflection but does not work alone (I know)
3. Cut off the upper bolt mount and drill a 3/8-1/2" hole straight up into the whiper pushrod section and run a bolt (2" long) through in order (Bolt-washer (Lots of sealant) firewall-washer (Lots of sealant) nut, Then another nut-washer-bracket-washer-nut order.
All washers are 1.25-2".
This locks the bracket into place vary well.
4. This helps protect the firewall from stress breakage, Use some large washers or spacers that will go over the master cylinder bolt spacers up to the same thickness and that don't cover the main pass through hole.
I made my own on my lathe with 1.25" alu barstock I had laying around.
Here is some pictures of mine.
Also there are some variants to what I did with mine as you see, The big bolt and washer on the back of the bracket was something I already had from the past cracked brackets and I just wanted overkill.
Also you will see in the center picture that the bracket installed with the brace to the door jam but also that I haven't used the big vertical bolt seen in the first picture since the truck I just installed it into hasn't broke off the upper mounting tab (yet).
11-26-2013, 10:37 PM
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Just finished mine right now. Had to weld the crack in the cowl which is a PITA! Such thing gauge metal! Then welded the bracket back together. Then welded a support from the clutch perch to the brake perch to keep it from flexing Tword the brake which is what I think happened. I'm gonna brace the upper mount at a later date. It's gettin late and I have work in a few hours so I needed to call it quits for tonight. I'm gonna take your advice on the bolt to the upper cowl area cause that's the main cause of mine I'm pretty sure. I noticed that crack about a month ago in the cowl and then this morning I heard a pop and that's when I lost first gear. That's when the bracket itself cracked and flexed. Thank you very much on your input. I just wish the PO of my runner didn't weld it into place. I could buy a new one and reinforce the crap out of it and replace it in a day. Getting mine out and a new one in will be a weekend adventure. Gonna have to pull the whole dash out to cut it out safely.
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11-27-2013, 08:41 AM
#8
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When mine cracked (and fell off) the fabricating shop just put a really big bead from bracket to firewall. No way that thing is ever falling off again (and I have no plans to upgrade the clutch).
11-28-2013, 07:06 PM
#9
Good info here. Thanks for the pics Punchy. I still have to check mine out. My 4Runner is currently in garage and one of the things I just did was replace my front parking brake cable. I just put the dash all back together...forgot abt the pedal bracket or rather to check it. I may have to do this....Here's another good thread to check out here.
03-17-2022, 02:53 PM
#10
Registered User
This is most commonly happens to the taller people who cannot sit back far enough and there legs are bent and push from the side diagonal to the peddle, less to ext cab pickup as the seats move an extra 2" back.
I have gone though 3 brackets myself and come up with 4 preventions and not had a problem since then.
First fix your cracked bracket good or buy another.
1. Make a plate 3/32" that follows the contour of the top of the bracket where the single bolt mounts the bracket to the upper firewall all the to and down the backside and around the spacer that goes up against the firewall.
Use 3 bolts to mount the plate, 1 on the back aligned with the upper firewall spacer and 2 on the top near where the upper firewall bolt is.
This stops a lot of the flexing.
2. run a thick brace from the doorjam area above the fusebox (there is boltholes already there) to the clutch switch (Don't remember if that is the OD disable or the clutchstart), This also helps stop bracket deflection but does not work alone (I know)
3. Cut off the upper bolt mount and drill a 3/8-1/2" hole straight up into the whiper pushrod section and run a bolt (2" long) through in order (Bolt-washer (Lots of sealant) firewall-washer (Lots of sealant) nut, Then another nut-washer-bracket-washer-nut order.
All washers are 1.25-2".
This locks the bracket into place vary well.
4. This helps protect the firewall from stress breakage, Use some large washers or spacers that will go over the master cylinder bolt spacers up to the same thickness and that don't cover the main pass through hole.
I made my own on my lathe with 1.25" alu barstock I had laying around.
Here is some pictures of mine.
Also there are some variants to what I did with mine as you see, The big bolt and washer on the back of the bracket was something I already had from the past cracked brackets and I just wanted overkill.
Also you will see in the center picture that the bracket installed with the brace to the door jam but also that I haven't used the big vertical bolt seen in the first picture since the truck I just installed it into hasn't broke off the upper mounting tab (yet).
I have gone though 3 brackets myself and come up with 4 preventions and not had a problem since then.
First fix your cracked bracket good or buy another.
1. Make a plate 3/32" that follows the contour of the top of the bracket where the single bolt mounts the bracket to the upper firewall all the to and down the backside and around the spacer that goes up against the firewall.
Use 3 bolts to mount the plate, 1 on the back aligned with the upper firewall spacer and 2 on the top near where the upper firewall bolt is.
This stops a lot of the flexing.
2. run a thick brace from the doorjam area above the fusebox (there is boltholes already there) to the clutch switch (Don't remember if that is the OD disable or the clutchstart), This also helps stop bracket deflection but does not work alone (I know)
3. Cut off the upper bolt mount and drill a 3/8-1/2" hole straight up into the whiper pushrod section and run a bolt (2" long) through in order (Bolt-washer (Lots of sealant) firewall-washer (Lots of sealant) nut, Then another nut-washer-bracket-washer-nut order.
All washers are 1.25-2".
This locks the bracket into place vary well.
4. This helps protect the firewall from stress breakage, Use some large washers or spacers that will go over the master cylinder bolt spacers up to the same thickness and that don't cover the main pass through hole.
I made my own on my lathe with 1.25" alu barstock I had laying around.
Here is some pictures of mine.
Also there are some variants to what I did with mine as you see, The big bolt and washer on the back of the bracket was something I already had from the past cracked brackets and I just wanted overkill.
Also you will see in the center picture that the bracket installed with the brace to the door jam but also that I haven't used the big vertical bolt seen in the first picture since the truck I just installed it into hasn't broke off the upper mounting tab (yet).
currently trying to imagine step 3 because that bracket broke along with the clutch pedal assembly. Can you share some pictures of that process. Or please send me PM, ended up logging in from my laptop and picture is clear and better quality. thanks
Last edited by TruckerBilly; 03-18-2022 at 07:37 AM.
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