Change oil pan gasket and find broken metal and plastic and coolant inside
05-06-2010, 01:12 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
It does look like piston skirt. I didn't see that you mentioned, but is that a piece of aluminum as it appears in the photo, cause that would lean heavily toward piston skirt in my mind. As to the coolant... Can you get a bright flashlight or shop light and try to follow the drip upward to narrow down its source?
05-06-2010, 01:47 PM
#22
Contributing Member
what in the hell is that from? 
I've been all the way through a 22re, and I still can't see what that could be from, lol
shine a flash light up the cylinders and make sure all the pistin skirts are still in tact...
but, the walls of the pistons aren't quite as smooth as what's in that picture
and MAYBE a rod bearing, but how in god's name would it get out? and if a chunk like that was missing out of a rod bearing, it would be VERY obvious, lol
btw, the plastic is definately from an old timing chain guide, lol
I've been all the way through a 22re, and I still can't see what that could be from, lol
shine a flash light up the cylinders and make sure all the pistin skirts are still in tact...
but, the walls of the pistons aren't quite as smooth as what's in that picture
and MAYBE a rod bearing, but how in god's name would it get out? and if a chunk like that was missing out of a rod bearing, it would be VERY obvious, lol
btw, the plastic is definately from an old timing chain guide, lol
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 05-06-2010 at 02:00 PM.
05-06-2010, 02:23 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
what in the hell is that from?
I've been all the way through a 22re, and I still can't see what that could be from, lol
shine a flash light up the cylinders and make sure all the pistin skirts are still in tact...
but, the walls of the pistons aren't quite as smooth as what's in that picture
and MAYBE a rod bearing, but how in god's name would it get out? and if a chunk like that was missing out of a rod bearing, it would be VERY obvious, lol
btw, the plastic is definately from an old timing chain guide, lol
I've been all the way through a 22re, and I still can't see what that could be from, lol
shine a flash light up the cylinders and make sure all the pistin skirts are still in tact...
but, the walls of the pistons aren't quite as smooth as what's in that picture
and MAYBE a rod bearing, but how in god's name would it get out? and if a chunk like that was missing out of a rod bearing, it would be VERY obvious, lol
btw, the plastic is definately from an old timing chain guide, lol
For now, I have replaced the oil pan, and filled her up. She runs like a champ and I don't hear that rattling noise anymore. I don't over heat. I don't have any signs of bad head gasket and can't see an external leak of coolant.
My guess is the timing chain and a hole in the cover like was stated before. Hopefully when my driving time is up, there will be better signs of whats wrong. Thanks again, I will continue this thread with follow ups as this info has been very helpful to me in understanding more about my new toyota. Thanks guys
05-11-2010, 11:29 AM
#24
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Thanks for the input. I can't seem to figure it out either. I have a three month license suspension awaiting me starting on the 22nd (in two weeks) so i'll utilize that time to rebuild. I was gonna SAS but maybe not yet. Motor seems more of a priority. Since this thing was treated like , I think I will rebuild either way.
For now, I have replaced the oil pan, and filled her up. She runs like a champ and I don't hear that rattling noise anymore. I don't over heat. I don't have any signs of bad head gasket and can't see an external leak of coolant.
My guess is the timing chain and a hole in the cover like was stated before. Hopefully when my driving time is up, there will be better signs of whats wrong. Thanks again, I will continue this thread with follow ups as this info has been very helpful to me in understanding more about my new toyota. Thanks guys
For now, I have replaced the oil pan, and filled her up. She runs like a champ and I don't hear that rattling noise anymore. I don't over heat. I don't have any signs of bad head gasket and can't see an external leak of coolant.
My guess is the timing chain and a hole in the cover like was stated before. Hopefully when my driving time is up, there will be better signs of whats wrong. Thanks again, I will continue this thread with follow ups as this info has been very helpful to me in understanding more about my new toyota. Thanks guys
Any ideas yet??
Repo
05-12-2010, 01:40 PM
#25
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Thread Starter
No not yet. I've been driving around without any issues. In fact with everything going on, since I did the oil change, the truck runs alot better than before. I know it needs to be addressed so I think i'm going to pull the motor when my DL is suspended. I might continue this thread as the motor rebuild if I do. Thanks for checkin up.
05-12-2010, 08:58 PM
#26
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So here are a few more pics of the metal pieces. I haven't yet determined where the coolant is coming from but my guess is its not good either way. What do you suggest I do. It's dripping now about a drop a minute or so. Seems more frequent than last night. My timing chain looks brand new from underneath so maybe the plastic is from before it was changed. My guess being that it was changed recently? Do I still need to take the valve cover off? Thanks
05-12-2010, 09:23 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
Whats in store for the job if the timing chain has worn a hole through the cover allowing coolant in? I understand the concept of what happened but I don't know what i'll be up against if this is the case. Should I consider a full rebuild or just focus on this issue?
05-12-2010, 09:52 PM
#29
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Take off the valve cover. 4 nuts. Check the chain for slack. Then look into the cover for guides. It will be the drivers side thats gone. If thats the case. If they changed the timing chain , gears and guides and didnt pull the pan. That explains everything . The old crap was in the pan from last timing kit change. Anti freeze gos in the pan changing the front cover. Could have been slinging around in the oil pan. Chances are if the cover was changed it would be cleaner than the rest of the engine. Bad news is. The anti freeze kills bearings. Not to mention the rest of the trash you found in the pan.Wont be long, if it was run long in the oil. It will start a low knock. Then get worse. If it were mine I would tear it down and fix whats needed. Dont push it and ruin a crank.
05-13-2010, 09:50 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Take off the valve cover. 4 nuts. Check the chain for slack. Then look into the cover for guides. It will be the drivers side thats gone. If thats the case. If they changed the timing chain , gears and guides and didnt pull the pan. That explains everything . The old crap was in the pan from last timing kit change. Anti freeze gos in the pan changing the front cover. Could have been slinging around in the oil pan. Chances are if the cover was changed it would be cleaner than the rest of the engine. Bad news is. The anti freeze kills bearings. Not to mention the rest of the trash you found in the pan.Wont be long, if it was run long in the oil. It will start a low knock. Then get worse. If it were mine I would tear it down and fix whats needed. Dont push it and ruin a crank.
05-17-2010, 10:54 PM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
So on saturday, i'll begin pulling my motor. I would like any advice on what to buy for the rebuild. I would prefer to do as much to it as I can while its out so what all do I need. I'm hearing engnbldr.com has a good list of parts, being turbo I don't know what I need. Any input would help. Thanks.
05-18-2010, 01:38 AM
#32
Registered User
Piston skirts and rod bearings... 
Some of you guys are funny.
On the timing cover at the bottom there is a ring formed into it that's designed to help keep the chain on the lower timing gear. When you have a big hunk of the plastic timing guide go between the chain and that gear it pushes the chain outward and breaks this cover off and you get the chunks of metal you have in your hand in the oil pan. Look at a picture of the timing cover and you'll see that at the bottom. I had the same in my pan when I jumped time.
You just need to do a timing job and replace all of that. You can try to do it like some say here without pulling the head but I didn't have any luck at all doing it like that and had to redo it because it kept crushing the front of the head gasket. Do it once and do it right. Pull the head, get a complete engine gasket kit and a timing set from engnbldr with the metal drivers side guide.
Btw, I used a cork gasket on my truck and used black permatex on both sides of it and it never leaked a drop.
Some of you guys are funny. On the timing cover at the bottom there is a ring formed into it that's designed to help keep the chain on the lower timing gear. When you have a big hunk of the plastic timing guide go between the chain and that gear it pushes the chain outward and breaks this cover off and you get the chunks of metal you have in your hand in the oil pan. Look at a picture of the timing cover and you'll see that at the bottom. I had the same in my pan when I jumped time.
You just need to do a timing job and replace all of that. You can try to do it like some say here without pulling the head but I didn't have any luck at all doing it like that and had to redo it because it kept crushing the front of the head gasket. Do it once and do it right. Pull the head, get a complete engine gasket kit and a timing set from engnbldr with the metal drivers side guide.
Btw, I used a cork gasket on my truck and used black permatex on both sides of it and it never leaked a drop.
05-18-2010, 01:42 AM
#33
Registered User
Take off the valve cover. 4 nuts. Check the chain for slack. Then look into the cover for guides. It will be the drivers side thats gone. If thats the case. If they changed the timing chain , gears and guides and didnt pull the pan. That explains everything . The old crap was in the pan from last timing kit change. Anti freeze gos in the pan changing the front cover. Could have been slinging around in the oil pan. Chances are if the cover was changed it would be cleaner than the rest of the engine. Bad news is. The anti freeze kills bearings. Not to mention the rest of the trash you found in the pan.Wont be long, if it was run long in the oil. It will start a low knock. Then get worse. If it were mine I would tear it down and fix whats needed. Dont push it and ruin a crank.
05-18-2010, 01:52 AM
#34
Registered User
If you're going to rebuild, don't buy anything yet. You don't know what you need. First priority is to find a good/trustworthy machine shop. Ask around in your area.
Take your disassembled engine parts to the shop. They'll check things out and tell you what needs to be done, what size pistons and bearings you need, etc. Then you can order parts.
Be sure to number your rod ends and caps before removing the caps. I used an electric engraver. Punch marks would work as well. You don't want to get them mixed up.
Rebuilding yourself is educational. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone, only make clear that if you're not familiar with rebuilding engines that doing the first one involves a lot of learning along with some frustration and worrying that you won't screw up anything too important along the way. There's a lot more to it than what manuals say.
Take your disassembled engine parts to the shop. They'll check things out and tell you what needs to be done, what size pistons and bearings you need, etc. Then you can order parts.
Be sure to number your rod ends and caps before removing the caps. I used an electric engraver. Punch marks would work as well. You don't want to get them mixed up.
Rebuilding yourself is educational. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone, only make clear that if you're not familiar with rebuilding engines that doing the first one involves a lot of learning along with some frustration and worrying that you won't screw up anything too important along the way. There's a lot more to it than what manuals say.
05-18-2010, 02:04 AM
#35
Registered User
Piston skirts and rod bearings... Some of you guys are funny.
On the timing cover at the bottom there is a ring formed into it that's designed to help keep the chain on the lower timing gear. When you have a big hunk of the plastic timing guide go between the chain and that gear it pushes the chain outward and breaks this cover off and you get the chunks of metal you have in your hand in the oil pan. Look at a picture of the timing cover and you'll see that at the bottom. I had the same in my pan when I jumped time.
Some of you guys are funny. On the timing cover at the bottom there is a ring formed into it that's designed to help keep the chain on the lower timing gear. When you have a big hunk of the plastic timing guide go between the chain and that gear it pushes the chain outward and breaks this cover off and you get the chunks of metal you have in your hand in the oil pan. Look at a picture of the timing cover and you'll see that at the bottom. I had the same in my pan when I jumped time.
Btw, I used a cork gasket on my truck and used black permatex on both sides of it and it never leaked a drop.
Last edited by flyingbrass; 05-18-2010 at 02:08 AM.
05-18-2010, 01:37 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Piston skirts and rod bearings... Some of you guys are funny.
On the timing cover at the bottom there is a ring formed into it that's designed to help keep the chain on the lower timing gear. When you have a big hunk of the plastic timing guide go between the chain and that gear it pushes the chain outward and breaks this cover off and you get the chunks of metal you have in your hand in the oil pan. Look at a picture of the timing cover and you'll see that at the bottom. I had the same in my pan when I jumped time.
You just need to do a timing job and replace all of that. You can try to do it like some say here without pulling the head but I didn't have any luck at all doing it like that and had to redo it because it kept crushing the front of the head gasket. Do it once and do it right. Pull the head, get a complete engine gasket kit and a timing set from engnbldr with the metal drivers side guide.
Btw, I used a cork gasket on my truck and used black permatex on both sides of it and it never leaked a drop.
Some of you guys are funny. On the timing cover at the bottom there is a ring formed into it that's designed to help keep the chain on the lower timing gear. When you have a big hunk of the plastic timing guide go between the chain and that gear it pushes the chain outward and breaks this cover off and you get the chunks of metal you have in your hand in the oil pan. Look at a picture of the timing cover and you'll see that at the bottom. I had the same in my pan when I jumped time.
You just need to do a timing job and replace all of that. You can try to do it like some say here without pulling the head but I didn't have any luck at all doing it like that and had to redo it because it kept crushing the front of the head gasket. Do it once and do it right. Pull the head, get a complete engine gasket kit and a timing set from engnbldr with the metal drivers side guide.
Btw, I used a cork gasket on my truck and used black permatex on both sides of it and it never leaked a drop.
05-19-2010, 06:49 PM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
i decided to peak on ebay and found a rebuilt 22ret for about 2100 shipped. here are the specs.
What are the engine specifications?
Engines remanufactured by our remanufacturing line meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications.
- New Manley valves
- New Elgin valve springs and keepers
- New Badger pistons
- New Hastings molly rings
- New Dynagear timing gears and Durabond cam bearings
- New Dynagear timing gears and chain
- New Elgin lifters, push rods, rockers, balls and nuts
- New Dynagear oil pump
- New FelPro gaskets
- Cylinder heads are pressure checked
- Diamond honed valve guides
- Three angle cut valve seats
- All head surfaces are broached
- Blocks are bored with deck plates, cylinder walls are diamond honed
- Crankshafts are ground and polished for .002 clearance
- Camshafts are ground to O.E.M. specifications, hardened and polished
- Connecting rods are sized to .002 clearance
what would be better? This or the engnbldr kit and having a mechanic do it for me possibly without a warranty. I have three months to decide and I would like to figure it out asap so I know how money to put aside for the job. I decided i'm not experienced enough to do it on my DD. If i end up buying another motor i'll do something with the extra on my own and try it out. What would you do?
What are the engine specifications?
Engines remanufactured by our remanufacturing line meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications.
- New Manley valves
- New Elgin valve springs and keepers
- New Badger pistons
- New Hastings molly rings
- New Dynagear timing gears and Durabond cam bearings
- New Dynagear timing gears and chain
- New Elgin lifters, push rods, rockers, balls and nuts
- New Dynagear oil pump
- New FelPro gaskets
- Cylinder heads are pressure checked
- Diamond honed valve guides
- Three angle cut valve seats
- All head surfaces are broached
- Blocks are bored with deck plates, cylinder walls are diamond honed
- Crankshafts are ground and polished for .002 clearance
- Camshafts are ground to O.E.M. specifications, hardened and polished
- Connecting rods are sized to .002 clearance
what would be better? This or the engnbldr kit and having a mechanic do it for me possibly without a warranty. I have three months to decide and I would like to figure it out asap so I know how money to put aside for the job. I decided i'm not experienced enough to do it on my DD. If i end up buying another motor i'll do something with the extra on my own and try it out. What would you do?
05-19-2010, 07:16 PM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
And for the 22ret. Which head should I buy. Sounds like engnbldr is the place to go so but i'm not sure what head to get. I really wanna do the ct26 swap at the same time I get this done so i was looking at the streetrv head with over sized valves for 448. Stock is 348. Cam shaft add on is 88 and it says this
"......(camshaft add on is $88.00), 261C, 268C, or 270/430 ......*"
What does that mean? I'm not going to replace onyl whats bad. I wanna do a full rebuild so need everything esentially. I'm not just going to order stuff without knowing what I need first and if there is anyone to ask its you guys here. Thanks.
"......(camshaft add on is $88.00), 261C, 268C, or 270/430 ......*"
What does that mean? I'm not going to replace onyl whats bad. I wanna do a full rebuild so need everything esentially. I'm not just going to order stuff without knowing what I need first and if there is anyone to ask its you guys here. Thanks.
05-20-2010, 01:38 AM
#39
Registered User
Random thoughts:
If you pay a mechanic to do a timing job he's going to charge you almost half of what a rebuilt engine is going to cost. It's not an easy job and when they go by the labor rates in the book they rape you.
That engine on ebay lists everything like it's a name brand but all of the names in the list I recognize are low end replacement parts. And no one likes felpro for anything more than a valve cover gasket. The price isn't bad though so if they give you a decent warranty who knows?
As long as nothing else is wrong a complete timing job with a new cover should fix the leak. Funny thing about engine problems though is that there could be other stuff wrong. From the way it sounds that's the problem but as with the mechanic there are no guarantees.
engnbldr sells good stuff but he's procey on heads. At least you're getting quality stuff.
This forum used to be a lot busier than this. I've been gone for a while now and it looks like it's been changing. Too bad. I suggest you use the search button. There are tons of threads on this stuff with lot's of pictures in the archives. Hell, I don't even own a toyota anymore.
If you pay a mechanic to do a timing job he's going to charge you almost half of what a rebuilt engine is going to cost. It's not an easy job and when they go by the labor rates in the book they rape you.
That engine on ebay lists everything like it's a name brand but all of the names in the list I recognize are low end replacement parts. And no one likes felpro for anything more than a valve cover gasket. The price isn't bad though so if they give you a decent warranty who knows?
As long as nothing else is wrong a complete timing job with a new cover should fix the leak. Funny thing about engine problems though is that there could be other stuff wrong. From the way it sounds that's the problem but as with the mechanic there are no guarantees.
engnbldr sells good stuff but he's procey on heads. At least you're getting quality stuff.
This forum used to be a lot busier than this. I've been gone for a while now and it looks like it's been changing. Too bad. I suggest you use the search button. There are tons of threads on this stuff with lot's of pictures in the archives. Hell, I don't even own a toyota anymore.
05-20-2010, 06:41 AM
#40
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I know exactly what that metal is.....
it's the brace on the timing cover that is under the chain.......the guide broke got jammed in there and broke off that support
oops someone already posted that
it's the brace on the timing cover that is under the chain.......the guide broke got jammed in there and broke off that support
oops someone already posted that
Last edited by PirateMcgee; 05-20-2010 at 06:43 AM.
