broke my timing chain guide, time to rebuild (pics)
03-28-2011, 08:53 AM
#21
Hey Ian, first thing, DON'T WAIT, ....Call Tod, if you really need to speak with him.
Ok;
Here's what I was saying, ..... "people will differ", and in this case, it sounds like Ian doesn't use any sealer/rtv/fipg on the timing cover gasket itself. I'll let him speak for himself, hahaha.
Call Tod and ask him, he's VERY available and even if he's currently busy, his kind wife will tell you when he'll be able to speak. He will tell you on the sealer, most likely, what Ted told me, "I don't say 'NO' on the using sealant on the timing cover gasket, but if I'm gonna use it, I use a VERY THIN LAYER, very light, just to hold it in place and as an extra stop gap, ...but not enough that it might cause spacing when snugging down the cover, etc."..... And as far as the corners, RB is talking about by where the cover/head and block all intersect. Then, on the pan, in the "corners" on top of pretty good and heavy all over the pan, the corners meaning "where the timing cover/block/pan intersections occur(you don't want blobs falling in the pan, but you want to 'seal' those corners, ya know?)
Far as the front main seal, ....sup to you. I put one in, and I'm sure the quality is fine, ...it's that that seal is the same as they've been for years, and they wear a groove in the harmonic/crank surface. So, Toyota, when you get one from them, will have a seal that's been 'updated' 14 times since 1988, and it's MUCH thinner in 'depth' measurement, compared to the Napa one that I have in my hand right now. I'll try to get pics. NOT EVEN POSITIVE that you NEED to go with the OEM one, ..... totally up to you, do your research and I'm sure you'll be fine. Only reason I paid close attention to that is, ...I have a replacement back in there since I replaced the cover(after market replacement Front Main Seal)... and it's leaking, a tiny bit, but nonetheless, I want it sealed up, lol.
Far as "Metal Pass. Side Guide Rails", .... not sure if LCE has those, you'd have to speak with them on the phone. I think so. I KNOW DOA sells them, even individually, ....but mine had 155K on it(OEM Plastic Pass.. side).... still 100% in tact when I tore the motor down the first time before the build.
RIGHT ON, RBX! Very cool of you!
Wish I could help, too.
Just a tip on dropping the pan.... You'll be dropping the Diff. And; With 2 people, you guys might not have to, but I REALLY wish I'd dropped the relay rod with the idler, or out of the pitman and let it hang......when I got the pan, FINALLY, in and shoved through by the back of the pan(smearing stuff everywhere, causing me to have to re-apply when in that odd angle, etc., hahaha)..... when I got it up and in, you then have to install the Oil Pick Up Tube.... and with that steering linkage there, I couldn't drop the pan enough to get my arm in there w/out smearing the sealer again, all over my arm, etc. I was very careful, just not enough room. (I TRIED, but I could not get the pan in with the oil pick up tube already installed...... i tried it before putting any sealant, etc.).....trust me, those rear mounting bolts of the pick up tube are precarious, JUST A LIL! lol.
Ok;
Here's what I was saying, ..... "people will differ", and in this case, it sounds like Ian doesn't use any sealer/rtv/fipg on the timing cover gasket itself. I'll let him speak for himself, hahaha.
Call Tod and ask him, he's VERY available and even if he's currently busy, his kind wife will tell you when he'll be able to speak. He will tell you on the sealer, most likely, what Ted told me, "I don't say 'NO' on the using sealant on the timing cover gasket, but if I'm gonna use it, I use a VERY THIN LAYER, very light, just to hold it in place and as an extra stop gap, ...but not enough that it might cause spacing when snugging down the cover, etc."..... And as far as the corners, RB is talking about by where the cover/head and block all intersect. Then, on the pan, in the "corners" on top of pretty good and heavy all over the pan, the corners meaning "where the timing cover/block/pan intersections occur(you don't want blobs falling in the pan, but you want to 'seal' those corners, ya know?)
Far as the front main seal, ....sup to you. I put one in, and I'm sure the quality is fine, ...it's that that seal is the same as they've been for years, and they wear a groove in the harmonic/crank surface. So, Toyota, when you get one from them, will have a seal that's been 'updated' 14 times since 1988, and it's MUCH thinner in 'depth' measurement, compared to the Napa one that I have in my hand right now. I'll try to get pics. NOT EVEN POSITIVE that you NEED to go with the OEM one, ..... totally up to you, do your research and I'm sure you'll be fine. Only reason I paid close attention to that is, ...I have a replacement back in there since I replaced the cover(after market replacement Front Main Seal)... and it's leaking, a tiny bit, but nonetheless, I want it sealed up, lol.
Far as "Metal Pass. Side Guide Rails", .... not sure if LCE has those, you'd have to speak with them on the phone. I think so. I KNOW DOA sells them, even individually, ....but mine had 155K on it(OEM Plastic Pass.. side).... still 100% in tact when I tore the motor down the first time before the build.
RIGHT ON, RBX! Very cool of you!
Wish I could help, too. Just a tip on dropping the pan.... You'll be dropping the Diff. And; With 2 people, you guys might not have to, but I REALLY wish I'd dropped the relay rod with the idler, or out of the pitman and let it hang......when I got the pan, FINALLY, in and shoved through by the back of the pan(smearing stuff everywhere, causing me to have to re-apply when in that odd angle, etc., hahaha)..... when I got it up and in, you then have to install the Oil Pick Up Tube.... and with that steering linkage there, I couldn't drop the pan enough to get my arm in there w/out smearing the sealer again, all over my arm, etc. I was very careful, just not enough room. (I TRIED, but I could not get the pan in with the oil pick up tube already installed...... i tried it before putting any sealant, etc.).....trust me, those rear mounting bolts of the pick up tube are precarious, JUST A LIL! lol.
03-28-2011, 09:01 AM
#22
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I ment i spun #5 and my crank needs a little work therefore i know the bearing for #5 will be a scosh thicker then the rest. The Block and Heads are at the machine shop and im waiting on numbers so i can call egnbldrs and order the correct sizes in the kit.
03-28-2011, 09:19 AM
#23
thanks mark. i'll go ahead and get the oem front seal as well, and use whichever looks right.
as for the sealant i use: i haven't touched the engine. taking the valve cover off was the first time the timing chain has seen daylight since it was installed. and that was the most involved work i've done to the engine itself haha
i understand about putting the sealant in the "corners". it makes sense.
and that's great to know about all the stuff i need to drop to get to the oil pan. i was probably just going to spend all day friday just trying to get to the engine (so i might not need you 'til the 23rd, rb)
and since this is a lot less expensive than i thought, i'm going to replace the radiator and do the e-fan swap.
as for the sealant i use: i haven't touched the engine. taking the valve cover off was the first time the timing chain has seen daylight since it was installed. and that was the most involved work i've done to the engine itself haha
i understand about putting the sealant in the "corners". it makes sense.
and that's great to know about all the stuff i need to drop to get to the oil pan. i was probably just going to spend all day friday just trying to get to the engine (so i might not need you 'til the 23rd, rb)
and since this is a lot less expensive than i thought, i'm going to replace the radiator and do the e-fan swap.
03-28-2011, 09:45 AM
#24
Registered User
^^^^ i would NOT recommend an OEM oil seal....Let me clarify.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...pulley-160325/
Get two seals, one OEM if you wish, and one will be in the engbldr kit. The reason you want two, is because you do NOT want the seal riding in the same spot on the crank that it has been for the last 175k miles. The seal actually wears a groove in the crank over time, and will loose its ability to retain oil, and this seal is at the front of the oil pump. Each company makes a seal for your application, but its dimensions are slightly different, this is good because you don't want the contact area on your crank to be the same as the original. (Someone makes a repair sleeve, but i have read that the sleeve is thin and eventually wears out). IIRC, the seal actually rides on the harmonic balancer shaft...not the crank.
Heres what to do(thought i posted this somewhere but i can't find it):
put the seal in the oil pump cover and get ready for reassembly to the timing cover.
mount the timing covertemporarily(no gaskets, RTV or Bolts yet)
take a black Sharpie(or suitable perminant marker) and scribe a thick line perpendicular to the carnk pulley, so that the line is...a...aligned in the direction of the crank.
let the dark line dry
mount the harmonic balancer/crank pulley and push it on until it seats(crank bolt may be needed to get it all the way on)
twist the carank pully back and forth a few times
Slide crank pulley off and examine
You should see a wear line axactly where the new seal will ride, and if its like mine you should be clear by a few mm.
I can explain this better if you need.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...pulley-160325/
Get two seals, one OEM if you wish, and one will be in the engbldr kit. The reason you want two, is because you do NOT want the seal riding in the same spot on the crank that it has been for the last 175k miles. The seal actually wears a groove in the crank over time, and will loose its ability to retain oil, and this seal is at the front of the oil pump. Each company makes a seal for your application, but its dimensions are slightly different, this is good because you don't want the contact area on your crank to be the same as the original. (Someone makes a repair sleeve, but i have read that the sleeve is thin and eventually wears out). IIRC, the seal actually rides on the harmonic balancer shaft...not the crank.
Heres what to do(thought i posted this somewhere but i can't find it):
put the seal in the oil pump cover and get ready for reassembly to the timing cover.
mount the timing covertemporarily(no gaskets, RTV or Bolts yet)
take a black Sharpie(or suitable perminant marker) and scribe a thick line perpendicular to the carnk pulley, so that the line is...a...aligned in the direction of the crank.
let the dark line dry
mount the harmonic balancer/crank pulley and push it on until it seats(crank bolt may be needed to get it all the way on)
twist the carank pully back and forth a few times
Slide crank pulley off and examine
You should see a wear line axactly where the new seal will ride, and if its like mine you should be clear by a few mm.
I can explain this better if you need.
Last edited by RBX; 03-28-2011 at 09:53 AM. Reason: linky posted
03-28-2011, 10:00 AM
#25
thanks, good idea. seems easy enough.
when i said "oem" i meant the updated, 14th revision, thinner one. anyone know the part number for it?
edit: i'll be using whichever seal doesn't interfere with the existing grooves
when i said "oem" i meant the updated, 14th revision, thinner one. anyone know the part number for it?
edit: i'll be using whichever seal doesn't interfere with the existing grooves
Last edited by irab88; 03-28-2011 at 10:01 AM.
03-28-2011, 10:07 AM
#26
Registered User
It is really a guess as to which oil seal you are getting from the dealler, and which seal your truck came with.
Some folks have suggested not seating the seal all the way in so it won't match the existing groove, i wasn't crazy about that idea eventhough pleanty of guys have had success.
Some folks have suggested not seating the seal all the way in so it won't match the existing groove, i wasn't crazy about that idea eventhough pleanty of guys have had success.
03-28-2011, 10:42 AM
#27
Hey RB,
Good info!
I have a great guy at my dealer, been there 30 years, ...he started looking it up, then got bumped in the program and showed me the list of 14 different variations of Seal Depth(you can only tell by the part #'s, but my buddy explained why they update....as you had said, I said, same thing.)
Here are the part numbers my buddy found(not sure if mine being a 1987 has any bearing ,...doubt it)...looking off receipt in my hand
1. Front Main Oil Seal, Type T O, List 28.44, 22.75 with my 20%/ 90311-45014
2. Oil Pump O-Ring, List 20.46, 16.37 with my 20%/15188-38030(pretty sure this is the oil pump o-ring? Toyota could tell ya, paper duzn't say, lol)
3. 2 timing cover gaskets;
....a. List 10.56, 8.45 with my 20%/ 11329-35030
....b. List 15.31, 12.25 with my 20%/ 11328-35030
4. FIPG Toyota Oil Pan and CAM cover Gasket-FIPG, List 22.43, 18.74 with my 20%, 00295-00103
5. Oil pick up tube gasket(I THINK that's what this is, lol), 2.09 with 20% discount/ 15147-38020
I know, you'll probably use the rock kit for all those, maybe you'll get the FIPG from Toyota(you can probably order it now cheap from dealerdirectparts.com? and have it in time?.. .Call them? lol). Maybe you could get the Front Main Seal from them, too, if you decide you want to. TOTALLY up to you, and RB has a good plan laid out for you there to test clearances, etc.
Don't forget you might wanna check the oil pump gear clearances, spline wear, etc, while you're in there, ya know? You can do that with the oil pump on a bench before you install it. Up to you.
Have a good one, Ian!
Mark
PS> Give yourself time on the Oil Pan, ...might not need to wait on that(i.e., getting started on pulling the oil pan bolts, break the seal---CAN be a PITA--- then drop the diff, steering linkage, then get the oil pan out, cleaned up, pick up tube cleaned up, .....then install it. Maybe might wanna order a new oil pick up tube gasket, too. And read the torque load on that, it's only 9-12# or so? Can't member, lol)
Wouldn't take more than a day or maybe two if you take your sweet time about it like i did, cleaning up the pan to block surface, cleaning the block, giving time for the oil to all drip out from the crank and rod bearing journals, etc. Mine kept dripping for a couple days while I was waiting for parts, etc.
Just sharing what I came across, not tellin you how to do it, lol. I did have a bit of a time using a razor, carefully, getting the pan away from the block. THAT TOYOTA FIPG IS A MEAN SUCKER! hahaha. Some areas are a real bear to get to, but it eventually will drop down as you work around half way to the back toward the Bell housing plate.
IT'S TIGHT IN THERE, ....especially my first time it was a bit of a pain... but now I'd do MANY things different! hahaha. Even though I planned it all out REALLY WELL, ......crap happens while you're learning, eh? hahaha
Good info!
I have a great guy at my dealer, been there 30 years, ...he started looking it up, then got bumped in the program and showed me the list of 14 different variations of Seal Depth(you can only tell by the part #'s, but my buddy explained why they update....as you had said, I said, same thing.)
Here are the part numbers my buddy found(not sure if mine being a 1987 has any bearing ,...doubt it)...looking off receipt in my hand
1. Front Main Oil Seal, Type T O, List 28.44, 22.75 with my 20%/ 90311-45014
2. Oil Pump O-Ring, List 20.46, 16.37 with my 20%/15188-38030(pretty sure this is the oil pump o-ring? Toyota could tell ya, paper duzn't say, lol)
3. 2 timing cover gaskets;
....a. List 10.56, 8.45 with my 20%/ 11329-35030
....b. List 15.31, 12.25 with my 20%/ 11328-35030
4. FIPG Toyota Oil Pan and CAM cover Gasket-FIPG, List 22.43, 18.74 with my 20%, 00295-00103
5. Oil pick up tube gasket(I THINK that's what this is, lol), 2.09 with 20% discount/ 15147-38020
I know, you'll probably use the rock kit for all those, maybe you'll get the FIPG from Toyota(you can probably order it now cheap from dealerdirectparts.com? and have it in time?.. .Call them? lol). Maybe you could get the Front Main Seal from them, too, if you decide you want to. TOTALLY up to you, and RB has a good plan laid out for you there to test clearances, etc.
Don't forget you might wanna check the oil pump gear clearances, spline wear, etc, while you're in there, ya know? You can do that with the oil pump on a bench before you install it. Up to you.
Have a good one, Ian!
Mark
PS> Give yourself time on the Oil Pan, ...might not need to wait on that(i.e., getting started on pulling the oil pan bolts, break the seal---CAN be a PITA--- then drop the diff, steering linkage, then get the oil pan out, cleaned up, pick up tube cleaned up, .....then install it. Maybe might wanna order a new oil pick up tube gasket, too. And read the torque load on that, it's only 9-12# or so? Can't member, lol)
Wouldn't take more than a day or maybe two if you take your sweet time about it like i did, cleaning up the pan to block surface, cleaning the block, giving time for the oil to all drip out from the crank and rod bearing journals, etc. Mine kept dripping for a couple days while I was waiting for parts, etc.
Just sharing what I came across, not tellin you how to do it, lol. I did have a bit of a time using a razor, carefully, getting the pan away from the block. THAT TOYOTA FIPG IS A MEAN SUCKER! hahaha. Some areas are a real bear to get to, but it eventually will drop down as you work around half way to the back toward the Bell housing plate.
IT'S TIGHT IN THERE, ....especially my first time it was a bit of a pain... but now I'd do MANY things different! hahaha. Even though I planned it all out REALLY WELL, ......crap happens while you're learning, eh? hahaha
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-28-2011 at 10:47 AM.
03-28-2011, 10:46 AM
#28
Registered User
I just skimmed this thread...while your in there may as well get a cam. I'm running the 268 do mostly non highway driving. For what I do I should have gone with the 261 I like to have more lower end, I rarely take it over 3K or 3.5 max.
I didn't drop the diff to get the pan off. I raised the motor a wee bit with a 2x4 and a heavy ratchet strap. May not have been right but it worked.
Starts on page 4 https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...01/index4.html
.
I didn't drop the diff to get the pan off. I raised the motor a wee bit with a 2x4 and a heavy ratchet strap. May not have been right but it worked.
Starts on page 4 https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...01/index4.html
.
03-28-2011, 12:05 PM
#29
i think i'll start the process of dropping the oil pan the week before, so at least i can get to it. i'll also start pulling out all the junk up front, at least so i can still drive it to re-position it in the driveway.
for the timing cover sealant, ted said:
i think that's what i'm going to stick with, for the oil pan, too.
lumpy- probably won't be getting a new cam. i'm fine with the one i have now, and i'm sure i'll get better over-all results once i get this chain fixed. i'll be putting enough money into the e-fan swap, which is something i've been wanting to do for a while. i'll also be upgrading the alternator (which i can do ahead of time) and some wiring
also, i know i'll need some tools i don't currently have, but which ones? not too many speciallized tools at home (i think the grease gun is the most advanced tool we have). gear-puller? torque wrench (probably can borrow from a neighbour)? i'll look at some of the others' processes to see how they did it.
for the timing cover sealant, ted said:
Originally Posted by Ted
We use good old RTV black and sparingly.
lumpy- probably won't be getting a new cam. i'm fine with the one i have now, and i'm sure i'll get better over-all results once i get this chain fixed. i'll be putting enough money into the e-fan swap, which is something i've been wanting to do for a while. i'll also be upgrading the alternator (which i can do ahead of time) and some wiring
also, i know i'll need some tools i don't currently have, but which ones? not too many speciallized tools at home (i think the grease gun is the most advanced tool we have). gear-puller? torque wrench (probably can borrow from a neighbour)? i'll look at some of the others' processes to see how they did it.
03-28-2011, 12:15 PM
#30
Registered User
Torque wrench is a must...double jointed wrists and elbows will help as well.
I use all standard hand tools when I did mine. You will want to do the starter/main bolt trick though. So loosen the crank pulley first. Then tear into the rest of it.
Once you get in there it's not all that bad, especially the third time around.
.
I use all standard hand tools when I did mine. You will want to do the starter/main bolt trick though. So loosen the crank pulley first. Then tear into the rest of it.
Once you get in there it's not all that bad, especially the third time around.
.
03-28-2011, 12:31 PM
#31
got it. thanks. so i'll need a bamf craftsman breaker bar and socket (so i can replace it if it breaks). do i need an impact socket? after reading 92 toy's thread, i saw he broke his socket the first time.
probably means i'll need a new pulley bolt, too
probably means i'll need a new pulley bolt, too
03-28-2011, 12:36 PM
#32
Registered User
For all 1/2" stuff I'd get impact. You'll spend a lil more but you'll break them much less.
I reused the pulley bolt. Depends on what you do to it getting it out.
I reused the pulley bolt. Depends on what you do to it getting it out.
03-28-2011, 02:06 PM
#34
Registered User
I got an extra bolt for you!
Get a horrible frieght impact socket, I think it's a 19mm, that should work fine. If not call me the night before and I'll brin the Snap-on.
Get a horrible frieght impact socket, I think it's a 19mm, that should work fine. If not call me the night before and I'll brin the Snap-on.
03-28-2011, 04:00 PM
#36
Hahaha, ...."Where's Brian?" lol. My guess is, driving somewhere to buy another ''CL-Steal"??? Not sure, lol
YEP, Ted told me the same thing, to just "go very light on each side of the timing cover gaskets".
Far as the crank bolt, yep, it's 19mm, and as long as the shroud is on, you'll get NO deep sockets+Socket Wrench in there. I got lucky I guess and never needed the "starter trick", .....might want to try and see. Just put it in 5th Gear, block both sides of there rear wheels, WELL, and put the E-Brake on. If your clutch is good, like mine, it should provide you all the resistance you need to break the bolt with a long cheater(I used my 18" half inch drive Breaker Bar with a pipe to lengthen it).... I laid beneath the truck, put the wrench as close to the pass. frame rail as possible, then pulled with all my weight while pushing with my feet against the pass. tire. CRACK! Same trick to tighten it, in 5th gear, etc. I tried to do it while pulling from the top, with the wrench almost resting on the driver frame rail, then PULLLLLLLLLLLING toward me, ....almost knocked my arm out the socket, haha.
The starter deal is probably the most common way for most of these guys to do it, ....it just freaked me out a lil, hahaha. So I tried it by hand and got lucky. BUT, you being back east? yeah, .....not so sure you'll have as easy a time with the ''MANUAL" method, hehe.
I think I did the whole thing with ............
* 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets and Open/Closed end wrenches(3/8" is fine for most, but 1/2" a must for the Crank Bolt)
* 1/2" drive torque wrench(See if your neighbor has it, if you're trying to save toward other things, eh?
....
* Feeler gauges to check my oil pump gears and drive spline "allowable gap"
* 10MM wrench for the battery negative(hahaha).
* 3/8" and 1/2" socket wrenches and a couple extensions
* Pry bar to retighten the Alternator
* Brass Brushes to clean the block face and bottom from left over sealant and gasket
* Acetone really helped me get it spotless!
* Couple Screwdrivers for the Dizzy, hose clamps, etc...
* FIPG, Gaskets and couple Razor blades to separate the pan from the block
* Oil, Filter, Coolant, reh'2'go! lol.
* Made sure Oil Pump was Primed(goodies you can use for that...some use Vaseline?.. I used some stuff at Kragen made for that.......forgot what, ...whatever, ANYWAYYYYYYY, haha)
* ......OH YEAH, ..and bandaids! hahaha. Nah, just a nick or two, my bad anyway, lol.
* LOTS of Rags and as I said, I liked Acetone, it really worked quick and WELL, and left everything VERY dry!
************************************************** **********
VERY COOL, just bummed I can't be there to lend a hand, man!
YEP, Ted told me the same thing, to just "go very light on each side of the timing cover gaskets".
Far as the crank bolt, yep, it's 19mm, and as long as the shroud is on, you'll get NO deep sockets+Socket Wrench in there. I got lucky I guess and never needed the "starter trick", .....might want to try and see. Just put it in 5th Gear, block both sides of there rear wheels, WELL, and put the E-Brake on. If your clutch is good, like mine, it should provide you all the resistance you need to break the bolt with a long cheater(I used my 18" half inch drive Breaker Bar with a pipe to lengthen it).... I laid beneath the truck, put the wrench as close to the pass. frame rail as possible, then pulled with all my weight while pushing with my feet against the pass. tire. CRACK! Same trick to tighten it, in 5th gear, etc. I tried to do it while pulling from the top, with the wrench almost resting on the driver frame rail, then PULLLLLLLLLLLING toward me, ....almost knocked my arm out the socket, haha.
The starter deal is probably the most common way for most of these guys to do it, ....it just freaked me out a lil, hahaha. So I tried it by hand and got lucky. BUT, you being back east? yeah, .....not so sure you'll have as easy a time with the ''MANUAL" method, hehe.
I think I did the whole thing with ............
* 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets and Open/Closed end wrenches(3/8" is fine for most, but 1/2" a must for the Crank Bolt)
* 1/2" drive torque wrench(See if your neighbor has it, if you're trying to save toward other things, eh?
....* Feeler gauges to check my oil pump gears and drive spline "allowable gap"
* 10MM wrench for the battery negative(hahaha).
* 3/8" and 1/2" socket wrenches and a couple extensions
* Pry bar to retighten the Alternator
* Brass Brushes to clean the block face and bottom from left over sealant and gasket
* Acetone really helped me get it spotless!
* Couple Screwdrivers for the Dizzy, hose clamps, etc...
* FIPG, Gaskets and couple Razor blades to separate the pan from the block
* Oil, Filter, Coolant, reh'2'go! lol.
* Made sure Oil Pump was Primed(goodies you can use for that...some use Vaseline?.. I used some stuff at Kragen made for that.......forgot what, ...whatever, ANYWAYYYYYYY, haha)
* ......OH YEAH, ..and bandaids!
hahaha. Nah, just a nick or two, my bad anyway, lol. * LOTS of Rags and as I said, I liked Acetone, it really worked quick and WELL, and left everything VERY dry!
************************************************** **********
VERY COOL, just bummed I can't be there to lend a hand, man!
03-28-2011, 08:42 PM
#37
thank you, mark! just what i needed after a long day. i think i have all that stuff, minus the torque wrench and breaker bar/impact socket. i'll be cleaning out the garage this weekend to make room for all the stuff that's getting pulled out.
aaand i opened up my email tonight, and in the entire day, i've had about a dozen e-mails with ted, and just now received one from lce. not sure i'm too keen on what he's saying...
i hope this isn't true.
also, i'm going to be doing some other things while the truck has some down-time
-new radiator (aluminum or radiator barn)
-taurus e-fan swap
-gm alternator upgrade
-tidying-up some wiring
aaand i opened up my email tonight, and in the entire day, i've had about a dozen e-mails with ted, and just now received one from lce. not sure i'm too keen on what he's saying...
Originally Posted by Mike at LCE
As for EngnBldr I have heard that he uses RockAuto Parts (per my customers) and they were not happy.
also, i'm going to be doing some other things while the truck has some down-time
-new radiator (aluminum or radiator barn)
-taurus e-fan swap
-gm alternator upgrade
-tidying-up some wiring
Last edited by irab88; 03-28-2011 at 08:45 PM.
03-28-2011, 11:14 PM
#38
Hey Ian, sup? lol.....
This is really, like I said, something you'll have to decide. I'm not a 20-30 year Mechanic/machinist/builder, so I'm only qualified to tell you 'how' I did this or that, or what my personal experiences are with this or that brand or part. I think there are good arguments on either side for "ONLY OEM" and "ROCK IS FINE"... and again, it's totally up to you. I wouldn't feel comfortable telling someone "yeah, that Rock Kit will last you just as long as the LCE or Putney's OEM kits".... only because I can't know that, other than what I've heard of other peoples personal experiences, ya know? I wouldn't tell you they're going to explode in 10K, and you'd better just get All OEM to be safe, either! lol.
Just think about what your plans are, when you think it's likely(within reason) that you'd have to fully rebuild, .....and then decide from there... Does that make sense?
This is really, like I said, something you'll have to decide. I'm not a 20-30 year Mechanic/machinist/builder, so I'm only qualified to tell you 'how' I did this or that, or what my personal experiences are with this or that brand or part. I think there are good arguments on either side for "ONLY OEM" and "ROCK IS FINE"... and again, it's totally up to you. I wouldn't feel comfortable telling someone "yeah, that Rock Kit will last you just as long as the LCE or Putney's OEM kits".... only because I can't know that, other than what I've heard of other peoples personal experiences, ya know? I wouldn't tell you they're going to explode in 10K, and you'd better just get All OEM to be safe, either! lol.
Just think about what your plans are, when you think it's likely(within reason) that you'd have to fully rebuild, .....and then decide from there... Does that make sense?
03-29-2011, 03:31 AM
#39
Registered User
Radiator...
I wouldn't worry about an all aluminum radiator unless you can get a good deal on it.
However, make sure you get an ALL metal radiator(brass tanks).IIRC, radiator barn sells them, but read the fine print the radiator pictured may not be the one you get....just sayin.
I found my radiator cheaper locally at Performance Radiator, nice thing was i got to talk to a guy, and tell him what my plans were for the truck, and he suggested a larger(then the 3vz-e) radiator, same cost, all metal, 3 rows. In fact i drove the 22re for a few weeks without a fan at all(it was early spring, and didn't sit in back-ups). Not recommended, but temp was stable.
I wouldn't worry about an all aluminum radiator unless you can get a good deal on it.
However, make sure you get an ALL metal radiator(brass tanks).IIRC, radiator barn sells them, but read the fine print the radiator pictured may not be the one you get....just sayin.
I found my radiator cheaper locally at Performance Radiator, nice thing was i got to talk to a guy, and tell him what my plans were for the truck, and he suggested a larger(then the 3vz-e) radiator, same cost, all metal, 3 rows. In fact i drove the 22re for a few weeks without a fan at all(it was early spring, and didn't sit in back-ups). Not recommended, but temp was stable.
03-29-2011, 05:24 AM
#40
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Glen Burnie MD
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RB how in the 
did you not sit in back ups where you live?!?!?!?!? Especially with the construction and cameras in your section of 695.
Ian, something has to be said about the quality and promptness of egnbldrs customer service. Im willing to bet if you asked those guys about thier product they will tell you EXACTLY what parts they use and were they are from..... atlest that is the feeling i got. I (like Mark) am not a professional at this, but i have read numerous good things about them and NO ONE that i can recall has had a bad thing to say. Email them and ask about the quality of thier parts and see what they say. What can it hurt?
did you not sit in back ups where you live?!?!?!?!? Especially with the construction and cameras in your section of 695. Ian, something has to be said about the quality and promptness of egnbldrs customer service. Im willing to bet if you asked those guys about thier product they will tell you EXACTLY what parts they use and were they are from..... atlest that is the feeling i got. I (like Mark) am not a professional at this, but i have read numerous good things about them and NO ONE that i can recall has had a bad thing to say. Email them and ask about the quality of thier parts and see what they say. What can it hurt?
