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Brake Pedal Needs Pumping....

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Old 02-04-2007, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by marko3xl3
Actually, it should be pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front, lspv.
WRONG, the longest line on the trucks/4runners up to 95 is on the DRIVERS rear. I don't know about the '96-up.
Old 02-04-2007, 09:06 AM
  #22  
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If your rear brakes aren't adjusted and working correctly, your pedal will not feel right. It sounds like the problem is in the rear.
Old 02-15-2007, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear80
WRONG, the longest line on the trucks/4runners up to 95 is on the DRIVERS rear. I don't know about the '96-up.
Yep the brake lines are routed along the passenger side, so the drivers rear is the farthest away.

mtsumedi - here is the fsm page about the braking system. Go the the checks and troubleshooting and see if anything comes up. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...akesystem.html
Old 02-15-2007, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mtsumedi
Update:

Replaced front pads (didn't really need it)
Replaced master cylinder
Blead everything in the correct order (10 pumps bleed 4 - 5 times each place including LSVP)

The pedal is a little better but still falls to the floor unless I pump it up.

The E-brake is worthless. I tried using it to self adjust the rears as well as reverse pedal braking. No change. The self adjustors are in fine working condition and I screwed them all the way in.

Anyone else have any insight?
Did you bleed the Master Cyl as well?
reverse pedal braking does nothing on a Toy (GM's work that way on some to adjust).
What do you mean by "I screwed them all the way in"? Did you adjust them back to the proper drag setting?
Do the test for the brake booster on the page I posted above and see what that turns up.
Old 02-16-2007, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by finny
Does anyone have a part number for this check valve? I'm having similar problems and figure thats an easy and cheap peice to start with.
I don't know about you guys, but that "cheap little check valve" costs approx $50 canadian at my local Dealer. Don't just replace it, test it first. It doesn't sound like that's your problem anyways.

Do you have good power assist for your brakes all the time? If yes, then the valve is not stuck closed. When you jump in the truck after it's been sitting for a while, and push the brake pedal in to start the truck, does it feel like normal power assisted brakes, or is the pedal rock hard when you press it? If it goes down normally like power assisted brakes, the the check valve is holding vacuum fine over extended periods of time. If you pass those two tests, there is nothing wrong with the check valve.

It sounds like either your rear brakes are way out of adjustment (how are you adjusting them?), or your front rotors are warped (when coming to a stop, after a couple of pumps when you get decent braking, do you feel any pulsing at all in the pedal? If so, check the runout on your rotors to see how badly they are warped.)

Last edited by GSGALLANT; 02-16-2007 at 10:18 AM.
Old 02-25-2020, 11:00 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mtsumedi
Ok, I appreciate the input. This leaves me with one question. If there is air in the line, how did it get there?
the brake fluid reservoir should never get empty. If the level is very low there is a chance of air getting trapped esp during rough roads when the oil is shaky.
Old 02-25-2020, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mtsumedi
Ok, I appreciate the input. This leaves me with one question. If there is air in the line, how did it get there?
When driving in rough roads and if the brakes fluid is very low there is a chance of air getting trapped. Or pressing the pedal when the brake fluid level is empty. When during service.
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