MonsterMaxx

I think by now I've tried them all. Factory pads last the longest, stop the best and put the least amount of crap on the wheels.

Then again, I'm working with Lyndall on some Toy pads. They are fantastic on my Vrod - way better than factory & aftermarket.

DyeBoi

Are there any good write ups on rotor removal? I am understandin that the removal of the rotor is going to require removing the bearings, seals? At thispoint, should new seals be bought? more grease? A detail'd write up would be awesome to have to reference. Anyone know of one?

91_4x4runner

I'll be doing mine today, so I'll post how it goes if you like.

DyeBoi

Any links right now? seeing as i've already pulled the rotor off the axles? I guess I'll have to dink with it myself for now

runner126

i use Centrix in my 94, my dad uses them as well (94 runner as well). They're quiet and cheap but also wear really well.

91_4x4runner

Well, I've got my front wheels and calipers off right now. I don't know where to go past this to get the rotors off... can someone advise me?

bodo

Are you trying to do this without any type of manual?

91_4x4runner

Yes, I've got the caliper off and secured to the upper control arm by zip tie (as advised by a writeup on 4x4wire). My rotor just won't budge though, is it secured by something else on the axle?

bodo

Ok to sart with you need to get a manual, even if it's the crappy chilton. Yes there is something else holding it on there, a big freaking nut in your hub! By the time you search the web and find what you need, you could put your truck together drive to the parts house and get a book with everything you need that you can look at while you're working on the truck.

HAVOC

Here's a little info: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/
Click on "Begin disassembly".
To make the job easier, buy the 54mm socket (I don't know what it is in Std.) It's better then the hammer and screwdriver method I've seen some poeple do.

DyeBoi

Update!

I can't believe it took me as long as it did to figure this out, heh, The Hub and the rotor are easily separated, for some reason I thought the bearings and such sandwhiched the rotor, and I thought i'd have to pull bearings and such to remove the rotor, a real headache!, but that wasn't the case, after you have pulled the rotor and hub assembly off of the axle, all you have to do is undo the 6 bolts on the inside of the rotor, and then just pull if off the hub assembly! The hub runs through the middle of the rotor.
Tip! I'm sure most people will know this, but for those who don't....
The easiest way to remove those 6 bolts on the inside of the rotor is to put the hub into the back of the rim.
What I mean is, with your tire lying on the floor, inside side up, place the studs through the holes of the rim where they should go, then loosen the bolts. A great stable platform to do it in, I also used a breaker bar to get those nuts loose as well.

All in all, I ended up with Napa Pads and Rotors, which all cost me about 160.
New brakes are nice, it seems like with this setup, I am able to brake more smoothly and quickly then I used to, but that might also come from the fact I've been baby'n my brakes cause I wasn't able to get to them as quickly as I should have.

91_4x4runner, a great place to look for info on removing all that to get to the rotor is in the Tech Write-up section.

Steering Spindle Bearing Replacement - 2nd Gen 4Runner
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128/steering-spindle-bearing-replacement-2nd-gen-4runner-76360/
You basiclly have to take those steps to get the rotor off. I had to do it once, and I was able to use the info I learn'd there to help with the disassembly.

If you haven't already finished, gl and keep at it!

91_4x4runner

I ended up replacing the pads only for now and I'm going to tackle that later this week. I'm looking at putting in and OBA system today... gotta go check the compressors theyve got at Pep-Boys, as I've seen many threads that say theyre good, and im cheap.