Another 3vze running issue!! please help
#21
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HMM I guess that is possible. I kept thinking that maybe it wasnt spraying but I always smelled fuel when trying to start it.
How do you recomend to test that?
I will check the starter signal tomorrow along with the csi.
What test for the AFM?? I can hear the FLAP moving in the air box
#23
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Look in the FSM to test the things I've mentioned. If you don't know where that is, run a search. It's stickied on the front page of this forum.
Another possibility is a bad connection at the AFM connector. Sometimes the terminals in there can get loose from the fasteners and back out. So, make sure it's all good.
Another possibility is a bad connection at the AFM connector. Sometimes the terminals in there can get loose from the fasteners and back out. So, make sure it's all good.
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Yeah I have the FSM ("I have gone thru the fsm and followed the flow charts with no luck.")
I have good voltage on start circut per FSM
I didnt see a test for the afm yet though. And I am pretty sure that the AFM would affect it all the time not just during starting!?
I have good voltage on start circut per FSM
I didnt see a test for the afm yet though. And I am pretty sure that the AFM would affect it all the time not just during starting!?
#26
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I know you said you'd checked the cold start timing switch. I'll assume you did that correctly. If so, every symptom really points to that circuit. I mean, once the motor is warm, it starts and runs fine. Even when cold, it will eventually start and also run fine. So, to me, that rules out the TPS and ignition circuit.....apart from the tests you've run. I really suspect either the wiring to the CST switch, the connector at the switch, connection to the ECU, or the test you ran was inaccurate. OR, the cold start injector and/or wiring itself. I'd go over it again.
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I agree with THOOK. I'd add that seems to me you may be able to check the cold start directly... ie: that it sprays fuel when the engine is cold.
Wrap a cloth around it and crank the engine a few times... maybe disabling the start... not that it would start anyway.
Not sure if I read that in Yotatech or one of the diesel forums. But it seems to me its safe if you are careful. Seems to me your symptoms suggest you will get little or no fuel.
Another check to make is fuel pressure. Air-lock in the fuel line overcome with enough ontime pumping. Just guessing here.
Wrap a cloth around it and crank the engine a few times... maybe disabling the start... not that it would start anyway.
Not sure if I read that in Yotatech or one of the diesel forums. But it seems to me its safe if you are careful. Seems to me your symptoms suggest you will get little or no fuel.
Another check to make is fuel pressure. Air-lock in the fuel line overcome with enough ontime pumping. Just guessing here.
#28
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I agree to both of your inputs.
I have gone over the csi so many times because like you I feel it has to be in there.
I switched out the csi with another one and still the same situation.
I need to check that its spraying
But I have my doubts that this is an issue because I can smell fuel when its cranking and sputtering. (i know I am going to get "its the timming" comments after this) But it is not 180 out it runs fine once its started and I followed the FSM timming specs to the T.
RDHarper, It tells you the testing procedure in the FSM. simply discontect your coil (not the ignition wire as this still sparks) but the harness to the coil.
Pull the csi out and hold in to a catch can and crank.
As far as fuel pressure I do not have the special service tool (double banjo bolt) to test
I have gone over the csi so many times because like you I feel it has to be in there.
I switched out the csi with another one and still the same situation.
I need to check that its spraying
But I have my doubts that this is an issue because I can smell fuel when its cranking and sputtering. (i know I am going to get "its the timming" comments after this) But it is not 180 out it runs fine once its started and I followed the FSM timming specs to the T.
RDHarper, It tells you the testing procedure in the FSM. simply discontect your coil (not the ignition wire as this still sparks) but the harness to the coil.
Pull the csi out and hold in to a catch can and crank.
As far as fuel pressure I do not have the special service tool (double banjo bolt) to test
#29
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The comment about fuel pressure/air lock was prompted by the fuel smell.
A small air/fuel leak might explain the smell, and the slowness to come up to pressure, and therefore the slowness to start when cold.
You've probably checked and rechecked... but the most likely cause (if its a fuel/air leak), given the work you've done, is a leaking fuel connection. Have your tried the old spray trick to look for bubbles... or a UV/fuel leak detection to see if fuel is exiting enough for you to smell? You should not smell fuel in an FI system.
A small air/fuel leak might explain the smell, and the slowness to come up to pressure, and therefore the slowness to start when cold.
You've probably checked and rechecked... but the most likely cause (if its a fuel/air leak), given the work you've done, is a leaking fuel connection. Have your tried the old spray trick to look for bubbles... or a UV/fuel leak detection to see if fuel is exiting enough for you to smell? You should not smell fuel in an FI system.
#30
maybe I missed it but did you do a compression test?
I would do a fuel pressure test and check it for leak down. That would also cover your CSI test that was mentioned above.
i think that after doing those 2 tests would revel something
I would do a fuel pressure test and check it for leak down. That would also cover your CSI test that was mentioned above.
i think that after doing those 2 tests would revel something
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