NorthernWoodsman

I think that because no one has ever had to mess with anything is what makes me reluctant to mess with it either. There should be NO reason for me to have to if no one else has. Plug and play is what it should be. I know I can mark the screw, but I'm still reluctant because it just doesn't make sense that I would need to.

I didn't screw anything up. I cleaned it with electronics parts cleaner and steel wool and dry rags.

erock13

ive screwed plenty of things up with the supposed "safe" methods, its not always a hundred percent guarantee, unfortuantely.. im just firing off any possible reasons i can think of to rule out, but pull the codes and see what turns up, it can be figured out, it jus takes time..

NorthernWoodsman

No, I totally understand. I know I'm messing around with a 28 year old part. But, I didn't remove the top plastic cover so nothing in there should be wrong/bad. And there is really very little else on the thing to mess up. It has checked out good three times on the multimeter as well.

The cover over the idle air mixture screw was removed. I adjusted it a little bit, but didn't notice a change. Does anyone know where that is "supposed" to be set at?

I moved the plunger switch, but that should not affect the idle at all as it only restricts the inside plate from opening fully.

erock13

the one on the throttle body? it doesnt matter where its at, it matters what the rpm's at, theres no 'stock' position, it jus needs to be adjusted to the proper, stock rpms for idle, which i believe is 750.. the older an engine gets and the mods it receives, the idle has to be changed around every once and awhile.. and idk about your engine specifically, but i know on mine and older 22re's theres no cover on the idle screw, at least none that ive ever seen..

NorthernWoodsman

on the AFM.

There is an idle air mixture adjustment screw on the AFM. It comes from the factory with a cover. Mine was removed. I don't know if it was ever messed with, but I also don't know the factory setting so I can't even measure it to be sure.

erock13

ohh okay.. that one i have no idea about.. ive never messed with that one, nor had any experience with it..

NorthernWoodsman

I want to ask this question again since I haven't had anyone respond to them yet:

Does anyone know where the idle air mixture screw on the AFM is supposed to be set at?

I drove the truck yesterday around town quite a bit. The idle problem is still there. The truck drove good, but I feel like it had a little less power than the day I first took it for a test drive. Seemed a little sluggish.

Been working the past few days so I haven't been able to work on the truck again. I'm gonna look into things a bit more in the next few days. I'll probably try the paperclip trick to look for codes. And I found a guy not too far away that has a tps for sale.

The TPS needs to be on a parts truck to test it right? I can't test it if it's already been removed from the truck, correct?

Tomorrow I also start replacing the shocks. Fronts tomorrow I hope. Rears on Monday along with leaf springs.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Jeez, go on vacation and this place turns into some kindergarten lame pirate flaming forumn....

The San Juan Islands are gr8, thanks for asking

As for the adj screw on the AFM, IDK is a supra thing I didn't mess with mine. But is if it is not there it stands to reason that could be your problem. Try sealing it with a regular bolt ot the adjuster if you can find one. Then adjust the truckd throttle body.

unfortunately anytime you own an old vehicle things can unexpectantly go wrong with out touching them, I'm sure you know this and I'm not trying to mess with you. Here's one of my experiences: I put an aftermarket ignition on my 4rnr, idles great, rev's great. So go for a test drive, get to the stop sign down the road it dies. I could keep it running if I feathered the gas but would die every time at idle. disconnected the ignition box nothing, codes none, tempter pegged. To cut to the end, TPS was fine on multimeter but the return spring inside had crapped out. Hell I didn't even touch the TPS when installing ignition box!!

Sound to me that either a sensor is sending a bad signal or you are getting some unmetered air into your system. By unmetered I mean got in by another means than the AFM/Throttle body. So this could be a leaky low vacuum vacuum line (or is it high vacuum at idle?), loose ducting connection, that idle screw that is missing the adjuster screw. Loose ground might be an issue but I doubt it, as I doubt it is the egr. But they are still suspect

Can't give you a more pinpoint answer as part of wonder of owning an old vehicle is the troubleshooting/investigative work.

NorthernWoodsman

F*#k this setup. I have tried everything I know to make this work, but it still isn't idling right. And today, I put $20 worth of 87 octane in the tank and almost immediately the engine started making noise (detonating early) and then the check engine light came on. The code was a lean fuel/air mix.

I'm so sick of dealing with this. I have no idea how everyone on here was able to plug and play with this setup and I'm having nothing but trouble.

I'm headed outside to put the original setup on and test how it runs. If it runs fine then I guess I'm stuck with the stock AFM/intake.

I'm so fu@#*ng pissed right now. Arghgggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I feel your pain. Swap it out back to stock, see how it does. Come back to the swap when you've cooled.

myyota

I don`t know why you would be having so many problems with this swap, your using the correct AFM, its the same part number as the one i bought for my truck, and it was plug and play, and i havn`t had any problems at all. Can you take the AFM you bought back were you got it and see if they will let you try another one ?, its worth a try. There are many people here that have done this mod with no problems what so ever.

NorthernWoodsman

So, I just switched back to stock…and everything works perfect. The truck is back to slow throttle response, yeah me. Should do horrible in the mountains still too!

I don't think that the TPS is bad anymore. Well, maybe. The truck is sluggish off the start and I know that the TPS could be responsible for that. Another story for another day…and money not had at the moment.

I thought a lot on this…and I think that the AFM is bad. Not bad as in broken, but bad as in the air/fuel idle adjustment screw plug was removed and quite possibly someone messed with it in the past thereby screwing up everything for me.

For now I am burned out on this. After working over 10 hours to clean and polish the new AFM and after replacing the front/rear shocks and rear leaf springs and the steering damper and screwing around with the AFM I am just tired of fiddling around on the truck for now. I want to actually enjoy my summer. I also have to find a new home and move and I have a volunteer project due in three weeks and I have family coming to visit.

I think what I might do is, if/after I get an insurance settlement that I'm due from a car wreck years back I will buy one of the remanufactured units I found online. They're completely rebuilt with all new electronics. A bit pricey, but I'm very skeptical about ordering anything from a junkyard that isn't in my hometown again…lesson learned.

At the time I get the settlement I will probably get the reman AFM and upgrade my exhaust with a header, new pipes, new cat and new muffler so the whole motor breathes better from beginning to end.

THANKS to everyone that helped me think through this and all of the suggestions and advice you offered. The folks here are amazing!

I'll come back and update this thread if/when things change.

Thank you too everyone,
Matt

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Well, total bummer man. I got mine online from a junkyard 3000 miles away! Trust me(or dont) you're the first I've seen that had a MAJOR problem.

NorthernWoodsman

It's just my luck. Bad luck that is.

I'm like Linus with that go@#amn rain cloud following me around.

Like I said, I'll try again another day once summer has passed and I've got a little more scratch in my pocket.

Thanks for your help.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

No worries, let us know!

thook

Matt, I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner. But, once that screw is messed with, there is no specification on setting it back. Toyota did not issue one since it's not supposed to be tampered with. To set it back, one would have to screw....no pun intended.....around with it until it worked right again. That's kinda tedious, but possible. So, if yours isn't actually gone, missing, MIA, then at some point when you're up for it, give it a whirl.

As for the sluggishness, give it a few days before tinkering with anything. The AFM is a very important part of the ECU's fuel adjustment/injector duration programming. When you put the Supra unit in, the ECU temporarily learned/adjusted for the new input from the new unit. It may readjust itself. If your vehicle remains sluggish, though, then start tinkering.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Agreed.

phildelfino

The only thing I can add is he said he unhooked the neg. battery terminal for 10 seconds and I always thought that it needed to be about 10-20 minutes. If a problem still is there with the original unit back in then he should definately unhook the battery again to unlearn the new stuff it thought it was seeing.

.02

Good luck. I don't have a 22RE.

thook

Well, there's a difference between long term fuel programming (or trim, as the books call it) and short term. Short term will erase anytime you turn the key off. Long term is learned or cumulative and is stored in the ECU. It doesn't erase like that, nor does it erase if battery power is removed. Then, maybe your thinking of stored diagnostic codes? DTC's....stored or not.....do not affect how a vehicle runs. They're just an indicator of a malfunction.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Wasn't me, and he has the right AFM...but I know what you are talkin about