128keaton

1st gen or 2nd gen switch? Mine's cover fell off.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

The generation remarks aren't the easiest to follow, best to just put year and make which I assume is a 93 4runner. I have 89-95 pickup clutch switches which should be the same as the 93 4runner. I'd think 88 and older would be the same too, but maybe they used a different connector. Shoot me a PM and I'll try to grab one tomorrow.

ianscottdean

So I checked the ohms on the sensor/coil inside the distributor and it reads 226 ohms cold. Seems according to the spec it should be between 185 and 275 cold. I checked the air gap on the distributor and it's .4 mm, right at the upper end of its range. I'm running out of possibilities besides maybe a ground that could be affected, or the ecm. Any idea where a ground would be for this one? I did already clean up the ground under the distributor that the alternator is wired in to. Also, I did clean the pin connections on the ecm under the dash, but maybe the computer itself is fried? Looks like this one was aftermarket already and must have been swapped out from the previous owner.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Heat could be a factor on the pickup coil which is hard to really test unless you ran the truck till it wouldn't start, then ohm it. Also photos of the aftermarket computer? I wouldn't think someone would spend the big money to buy an aftermarket ECU, unless the truck was built to race or something.

My EWD for your exact truck says NE to E1 should be 140-180 ohms, but that's probably the spec for the igniter since it's tested at the ECU connector with the computer disconnected.

Looking at the wire diagram, the two wires from the distributor goes directly to the igniter, and the actual NE signal comes for pin 2 (black/orange wire) to the ECU. I'd say to start the truck and wiggle the wire between the igniter and distributor and see if you can get it to act up, and if nothing, try the igniter wire assuming the pickup coil isn't bad. It's possible the igniter could be bad and isn't processing the signal, but I think generally they either work or they don't work.

Here's the wire diagram for that area of your truck.

ianscottdean

All told now, I have replaced the ignitor, the distributor, the ignition wires and cleaned all the connections between the ignitor, distributor and the ecu. I'm sorry, but earlier I misspoke about the fact that the computer was aftermarket, what I meant was that it was OEM and had already been replaced by the previous owner about 4 years ago. The truck is definitely still having the same issue. I can get it hot with no issues and then it will lose power quickly and sometimes the CEL will go on showing code 13 again. A bit of information I hadn't shared before that I believe now to be the problem although I'm not convinced was that about 2 weeks before the truck started acting up my wife and I accidentally popped a fire extinguisher open in the cab and the dry extinguisher retardant sprayed for several seconds all over everything. We threw the thing in the bed after that, but the dust was not easy to get rid of and I know that the computer and several pin connections are under the passenger side dash. I tried to use compressed air to clean the computer and electronic cleaner on the connections, but I now think maybe the computer is fried after the incident. Is there anything else possible that it could be?

tacomanut

hmm that's no good