thook

Thank you very much for the detail. I'll have to read and digest it, and then when I've done everything after getting the new part in I'll post back. As it usually happens, I have to do some other things besides tinker with the truck. So, it will be a few days.
Thanks again!

thook

Hello,
Did it! Bypassed the EGR and installed another TPS. Got a nice $19 DMM for the job. Newest TPS holds a steady reading....so I know last one was faulty. The truck runs a tad better, but it still wants to die when let off the throttle. Got to hit the throttle a little to keep it up there in the idle. Now, I'm looking at a possible timing problem. I may not have set it right when I put in a new K.S. a couple months ago.
Thanks all for your help thus far!!!

TNRabbit

I don't want to ask a stupid question, but did you set the idle adjustment screw after all this?

thook

Not a stupid question, but yes, I did that. I went up and down with the RPM, but the thing just dies with throttle release. If I went up any higher on the idle adjustment, to keep it from dying, it would be way to high.
Is there some way to check the cam/crank timing without pulling the front of the motor down? I'll do some reading and all, just thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.
Also, I assume if I have to reset the cam/crank timing (is that base timing?) I will also have to reset the ignition timing. ????

suprathepeg

First check to ensure that the distributer is indeed properly installed, cause that could be one of your problems right away. Then just set your timing as per the manual at the dist. Should be pretty easy.

As for right now I have 2 questions:

1) did you use a resister to fool the comp regarding the EGR?

2) Are you currently getting a CEL? If so then I would pull that and see what you get. The codes are always to be your starting point.

thook

I'm a little confused...please forgive.
Aren't the ignition timing and the cam/crank timing (with timing belt) different? I had a reliable mechanic (and he is reliable...good rep) set the ignition timing (the distributor) a couple of weeks ago. I watched him do it. It was right on! But, I'm asking about the crank and cam sprockets with the belt and all being aligned properly and at TDC on the compression stroke. Doesn't that have to be correct before the ignition timing will be correct? Or will the ignition timing be correct regardless....if it is set right? Maybe these are stupid questions?! Obviously I need to do some reading, but I'm just trying to get the vehicle up and running good.
1) Indeed, I did. A 10ohm-1/4watt resistor. Soldered it in and wrapped it with electric tape to the wire bundle it comes from.
2) I've jumped the tester for codes a week ago and after the resistor install. No codes then....and no codes now. CEL is not coming on. In a way, I wish it was..ha!

suprathepeg

I guess your right then. You are gonna have to start digging into things like cam alignment. Thats too bad, see if you can find a good backyard mechanic to help you. I'd also smack the guy who sold you that engine.

thook

EEEEGADDS! mate! I was afraid of that. Oh well, could be worse...like no motor at all.
I'd smack him...if he wasn't about three times as big as me!!
If you have any tips, I'd appreciate it. I'll be doing this one by myself.

TNRabbit

I reread your entire post; one thing comes to mind. Do you have a manual or auto transmission? There is an auto tranny vavle that might be causing your problem, I dont remember exactly what it is, though. Mine is a manual...anyone know?

thook

Oh man, thanks so much for taking that time! I have an auto. I'll look in my manual to see what kind of valves there are for the trans. Then, do a keyword search on related problems.
I got up at dawn to tear down the frontside and get a look at the cam and crank alignment. I followed the procedures to a T for making sure if the crank and rotor are matched for TDC on the compression stroke. The manual (Hayes) says the rotor should be "pointing directly at the mark" made on the distributor housing for #1 spark plug wire while the crank mark is at 0 to know if TDC on comp. is achieved. Otherwise it's set at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Weeeeell, I turned the crank a couple of complete revolutions and all my cam and crank marks are DEAD ON! No slipped teeth.(he pats himself on the back) That is, the crank is lined up with zero and the cams are lined to their marks. But, the rotor is pointing more at 11 o'clock in relation to the #1 spark wire mark as your facing the dist. Is this discrepency an issue considering the above quotation?

thook

I believe the timing is off, but not sure of what I read.
What I don't understand is if the crank is supposed to be at 10* BTDC while the cams are on their marks up top, then you adjust the dist. to that. Or, is it that the crank is at zero, TDC, with cams on mark, then when you read with the timing light you adjust the dist. til the mark lines up stationary with 10* BTDC. The manual seems to say one thing while posts here say something else. Back to the books.

suprathepeg

To me it sounds like the dist is off one tooth.

thook

OH Hey! Okay, does this mean I have to loosen the dist., pull it out and turn it?

suprathepeg

yea I think so. I don't have the experiance I should here so take my advice with a grain of salt.

thook

Oh! Okay! Hmmm! Disregard the pm then. Hmmm...what to do? I've got everything apart. I'm fevered with getting this thing running...hopefully today. I'll do some more research...maybe call someone.

thook

Okay, broke down and took a picture. Maybe someone here knows better of what they're looking at. This is the positioning of my distributor as it is now.



Does this look acceptable? In the right position? It looks too far left when compared to the FSM diagram.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...13distribu.pdf

I tried to copy paste the image to this post, but couldn't. If you would, go to page 25.

suprathepeg

looks alright. Like I said on the phone the timing light will tell the story. If you can't get it to time right with the light then you are likely off by one tooth. If you can and it still doesn't run right then we move on to another line of thought. Either way the timing light is a good investment.

thook

Got everything put back together last night, and tested the timing this morning. It was at 12* BTDC. So, I adjusted it back to 10*. One question.....is that little mark on the crank supposed to jump around a bit...kinda hover around the 10*, or is it supposed to be steady right on the mark? It's doing the former scenario.
Other than that, it's still doing the same thing. Idles poorly, and will die if you hit the gas and then let off. Oh! And it's hesitating just as your accelerating out of the1-2k rpm range. After that, butter!????

suprathepeg

Sounds like the timing is still retarded.

When you junper the timing connector does the timing you read change? It should otherwise it still isn't going into base timing.

thook

Jumper the timing connector? Do you mean the TE1 an E1 terminals?