pete f

Last year I inquired at my Toyota dealer where I get my parts and he said it was $140.00 for my year. I didn't have the money so I downloaded the 93 fsm we have here.That was a good move for me. Cost me 1 ream of paper and some printer ink but if I hit the lotto I'm getting one. The 93 fsm has saved me many times already.

thook

I was telling my wife last night....after we'd both scanned over the two shop manuals.....that the 93fsm is like the Cliff's notes comparitively. It's useful for a lof of applications.....and also has saved me many times.....but, these shop manuals take more of the guess work out by explaining more of how everything works and how to determine exactly what's wrong.

I do have an idea, though. I'll PM you about it....m'kay?

Well, I've some good news. It's not definite a conclusion yet, but I put the new terminal on this morning and since the battery was, of course, unhooked the ECM was cleared. So, I fired up the engine and let it run for a few, shut if off, and checked for the code returning. It seems to be cleared. I didn't actually drive it, so we'll see if that did the trick. My wife will take it for a spin whilst I'm at work today. Let you know how it goes. I'll be jazzed a million times over if I'm finally done with this burdensome beast. Well, I'll still have to figure out the 4wd issue, but atleast I'll have the motor running well.

pete f

I got the fingers crossed but it sounds like you got it. I hear the banjo music!!

thook

Don't count your chickens before they hatch!

I wound up being the one to taketh her for a test run....backed her up and forward a few times. Hey...it got cold and dark!..lol. Speedo still isn't working right. I looked in my swanky, new, borrowed manual and the speed sensor #1 is within the speedo. So, I have to pull the instrument panel out to test it for ground. I'm still learning my around this manual, though, and there may be more to it than that. But, it says so far if no ground between the two terminals then replace speedo! Ooooo....that's a chunk o'change. Always sumpin', it seems...haha. I'm going to be broke before all my vehicles are fixed. (Not really, but I may have to cut back on my cigars...pfftt)

If it's not raining/snowing today, I may be able to run a battery of tests on the whole circuit. Find out where everything's at. I have the feeling some electrical things got compromised when I had my wreck, and now they're manifesting as problems. Buggers! Apparently, speed sensors don't like tremendous shocks.......like sailing 8ft in the air via culvert style launching pads. (Neither do lower backs...mmm)

Speaking of manuals.....these things cover absolutely every square inch of the vehicle. Complete fold out, blow up electrical diagrams....absolutely every sensor, wiring harness, connector....you name it, it's all there. I'm impressed. Check your pm's, Pete.

thook

Found a mistake in the FSM......

Since I've been troubleshooting my auto for a few weeks now, I've boiled it down to the speed sensor. But, when I looked in the FSM for how to test it and where it was located it shows an image of a sensor that is located in the middle/driver side of the tranny......a two pin connector even. This went against google searches I'd done that said the sensor would be at the rear, but who was I to argue? It's the FSM.....right? Because of the location of the sensor the FSM showed, in order to test, I was going to have to pull the exhaust pipe and heat shield down to be able to get my hands up to the connector where it was tied in at the top of the tranny between the floor pan. Well, I stopped midstream of the disassembly and decided I'd have the part ordered and on hand in case the speed sensor was bad. Then, I could just put it in and not have to go through disassembly and reassembly twice. Anyway, I went to pick the part up yesterday and it looked NOTHING like what I was going by in the FSM. So, to be sure, the parts guy and I looked in his parts catalog and even spoke with one of the shop techs who happened to be meandering through. The part he had was correct. BUT! We opened the shop FSM, looked at the part and testing I was going by and the tech said that that was just not right! First of all, the part the FSM shows is two prong. A speed sensor would have to have three.....one for ground, one for voltage, and one for signal relay. Also, the speed sensor would have to engage the driveline via a drive gear and the one the FSM shows would not. Even then, the FSM test will not work for actually testing the sensor. It can't!!!! It shows no reflection of a spinning drivetrain since it obviously isnt' testing the sensor but rather the stupid connector!!!!!!!

About testing the sensor....the correct one!
This morning I went to test it, but the sensor connector points upward and there's only about three inches of clearance from the floor pan. Not only could I not see where to put the probes, but I couldn't fit them in between. So, I had to pull the sensor out, hook the meter probes (on ohm setting) to the pins, and spin the little plastic drivegear to get my readings. I wasn't sure which pins as there are three, but I figured there had to be continuity between atleast two....... for the ground and the signal. So, I just played around until I could find it. The original sensor.....the one in question.....showed a resistance of approx. 6.28 ohms. when motionless. When I turned the gear, the resistance shot up unevenly to around 12 and 13 ohms. That didn't mean anything to me as I didn't really know what I was looking for or what to expect. Feeling at a loss on any determination, though, I decided I'd test the new one and compared the readings. The new one....on the same terminals.....tested at 6.02 ohms motionless and IN MOTION!!! Welp.....made sense to me. Should be getting steady resistance on it.....not erratic as would be reflected at the speedometer.

I don't know if this has entirely fixed the problems since I haven't put the stupid exhaust back together yet to drive it. But, I will tomorrow.... Stay tuned if thou art interested!

pete f

The fun part of all this is the brain strain.I hope you got it this time!

thook

Yeah, Pete. Brain strain is what it's all about...


The new sensor has fixed the speedo, tripmeter, and odo. And, it's fixed the erratic shifting. But, there's some delayed shifting going on. Like when accelerating, it will rev to about 3k rpm and higher trying to get say 40mph or more and not upshift from 2nd to 3rd. Also, the other day, it wasn't kicking out of over drive when I'd floor it. So, there's other things to look at, but I'll nail it all eventually. It may just be the throttle linkage. We'll see.

Kiroshu

Fuel Pump or injectors.

thook

I almost wish it was that simple, but it's nothing to do with the motor. It's running very well.

Edit: Now I see you were referring to the original topic. A new(ish) dashpot fixed that. Thanks, anyway.

DJK-West

I noticed that when the engine idles in my 95 4Runner 3.0 while in drive, the idle speed is at around 850-900rpm's. But when I put it on neutral, the idle speed goes up to around 1000-1100rpm's. Could this be the dashspot?

thook

No.....that would be from the transmission no longer loading down the engine from being in gear. The hydraulics in the tranny need vacuum from the engine to operate, so it drains on it. But, what you're seeing is normal.....though, your idle numbers are high. Your idle should be 850-900 when in P or N and less while in D, etc.......around 500+, I believe.

DJK-West

Thanks, I just made the proper adjustments. Now the engine idles at 850-900 in P or N. It drops at around 650 when in D.

Another question, sometimes when I'm sitting at a light the engine idle drops by a around 100 rpm, and it feels like the engine could start to stall but it rises back up. It's not a regular occurence, once in a while it would do that. I tried to look for a pattern of occurences but it will do it when the engine is cold or warm. The plugs, cables, rotor, and distributor cap are new. It has a new air filter, new pvc valve, some vacuum tubes have been replaced as well. The valve cover gaskets have been replaced as well. I have dumped some fuel treatment in it. The only thing I haven't done is Seafoam.

What do you think is wrong? I do have an oilpan leak, its not bad, only leaks when the car is parked. Could that be the culprint?

thook

Definitely not from the leak. That has no bearing on how the motor runs.....save the amount of lubricant you may or may not have.

When's the last time you had the valves adjusted? Air filter?

DJK-West

The valve has been adjusted 2.5 yrs ago. The engine has 217k miles now. I do hear the tick tick tick (sewing machine) sound.

thook

That's most likely your injectors ticking.

You've got a number of possibilities here. One could be the fuel pressure regulator, but I'd start running the troubleshooting guide in the FSM.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...63troubles.pdf

Let me ask, does it happen just sitting there or right when you let off the throttle?

DJK-West

It only happens when I'm sitting still. It never happens after letting off of the throttle.

thook

Oops...I thought I replied to you. Sorry. Must've blinked...

That rules out the dashpot, then.