ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I'm surprised too, Rob! lol. In fact, it ran EXACTLY the same, so I'm pretty sure that's no the problem.

Yeah, I pulled the ground for a bit before and after each removal/installation of ANYTHING, including when I unplug the TPS on rare occasions to see what it does. When I do that, without pulling the ground, it THROWS A CODE...so i'm pretty sure that's working as well, ya know?

And actually, the strange thing is, ....used to idle up when I'd remove the TPS. Now, if it does it at all, I SURE HAVE TROUBLE TELLING! So, maybe that's it, but at this point, ...If I can 'try' these things without buying them, ...WHY NOT? lol. I'm going to really read up on the 4Crawler site regarding the TPS adjustment, I know it's VERY TOUCHY, and I'm also heading to Lovelady Hardware tomorrow, to get the allen screws I need. THEY HAVE EVERYTHING, and I mean everything you could possibly need as far as rare or odd bolts, nuts, etc., etc. Plus, he has a 66 428-Ford Cobra I don't mind checking out when I'm up that way, hahaha.

yotarob2005

Chef, I already posted this in your other thread, but if you want to for testing purposes I can ship you a known good working part off of my truck. I don't need my truck running untill the next wheeling trip I have planned for the 25-27th of this month. If you want my TPS or EGR stuffor what ever, let me know & I can pull the parts & ship them your way.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

DANG! Wow, Rob, ....well, let me check out the TPS thing tomorrow and then I'll go from there. I mean, if all the stuff I've listed checks out, ...if the AFM is seemingly good, ....if the TPS doesn't fix it, ....then I'll be guessing at that point, but I guess it can't hurt! THANK YOU, Sir, for the offer. I will contact you, tomorrow, when I have a better idea as to where I'm at. Wow, that would be like a creampuff transplant! hahaha.

What would you think I should try next? Just off the top of your head, if the TPS doesn't do it? Any thoughts? I know you're probably running out of ideas like myself, but should I maybe be leaning toward fully testing the ignition system like suggested before? ECU? ....I guess we'll see, tomorrow, if I'm SOL on the TPS, hahaha. Gonna keep reading that TPS thread on 4Crawlers site, OVER AND OVER until it's burned into my head, ...then print it, then I should be ok to do that swap out.

THANKS AGAIN, ROB! That blows me away, I mean it! SO HARD to find them around here, man!

mel63

Mark,

Take a big, deep breath and relax. I know about running around like a chicken with the head off!

The symptoms where a lot like yours. Starts right up, rough idle, would eventually die. On a drive, bad hesitation at low rpm's, then at about 2500-3000rpm's, it would take off. Replaced all components on the ignition system (coil, cap, roto, plugs, wires). My son bet me that it was the tps. On a side note, we had a similiar experience on his engine ('89 22re) last summer. His was the tps.

We replaced the tps with a OEM unit. Adjuste dit to the resistance readings found in the FSM or 4Crawler's site. And yes, please get the small allen head metric screws. Found ours at a hardware store. After adjusting the tps, fired right up and has been working great ever since.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you need some pages from a'87 FSM. I havea book at home. Can scan them and send them to you.

Goo dluck.

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YOU GUYS ROCK! haha. Seriously, I really appreciate ANY help, every time! Yeah, I'm ok, Mark, ...I don't lose it, and most people trip on my resolve and calm in trials......but there is SOMETHING TO THE LIKING OF EATING PESTICIDES about an inanimate object that is able to KEEP FOOLING ME! Thanks for the confirmation though, honest.

Yeah, THAT'S IT, regarding the 'taking off like a bat-outa-hell' etc. I'm sure some of the symptoms are a lil diff, but that sounds VERY much like what I'm dealing with. Strange thing how it will drive itself out,....I guess maybe the brushes for the Idle range of the unit are SHOT, .....It's possible. Did you remove the throttle body or just the thermostat housing?

Cool, well, I'm just gonna finish up the cleaning....did Veal Marsala with Spinach Souffle and Mushroom Risotto, Fresh Baked Rosemary Asagio Focaccia Rolls and they're just now eating Lemon and Mulberry Sorbet, w/Fresh Mulberry's and sauce, ...YES, from my yard, hehehe. DANG, I'ma go get some'o'dat! Bbl8r, haha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Guys,

I'm FINALLY able to head out and attempt to further diagnose the possible issue of a "BAD TPS". Just a couple questions, first.

1. If a TPS is reading ok but still 'going out', is it possible that when connecting the 'timing bypass-E2-T' in the hub, that the idle wouldn't drop? I'm going to double check, but I'm fairly certain it's still dropping when bypassing those plugs.

2. I'm having a lil trouble making sure the Dash Pot/Throttle Body Flap is set right for the TPS adjustment, if I end up having to do that.

I'm going to mark everything well, and document everything, too, in case I do end up replacing the TPS. I've found a few people on here telling me they had VERY similar if not identical symptoms and replacing the TPS did the trick. I think I'll test the ECU, first, just to be sure it's reading the same, because, after all, the TPS readings are all within spec's as far as I can test it.(Except for IDL-E2 at .85mm gauge, it read .01 on 20k setting, not 'INFINITY' like suggested.

Anyway, I'll check back in, just hoping for any more ideas of things I can check in case the TPS replacement and adjustment using 4Crawlers specs is needed and done and doesn't fix it. DANG if this is the ECU I'd freak! lol.....But it seems odd that it runs fine at times. Last night, in fact, it was back to BARELY running again, ...even with that NEWLY REMAN'D AFM I had to use for a 'check'(Thanks homie!....Shhhhh, lol). Same thing when pulling the ground and then putting back the orig. AFM I've been dealing with all along.

ANYONE?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I really hope you guys don't give up on me! lol.....You've all brought SUCH INCREDIBLE help and inspiration to my dilemma and build, initially.

Here are some videos, please watch the video in the next post 2nd, then go back up to these, and go from 2nd showing to last and see what you think? PLEASEEEE? You will probably get a better idea of what I'm dealing with here, and maybe YOU COULD SOLVE THE MYSTERY, EH? lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

This is supposed to be second in the series above. Please watch second, then go to second in above videos in last post and on to the end from there. Sorry, couldn't edit it here, I TRIED EVERYTHING!

iamsuperbleeder

wait that check engine light is staying lit... you should be able to pull codes from it...


during your rebuild, how much did you dig into your intake manifold and throttle body?

take a look at this

c0ugar69

hey chef did you block the egr?? even if it test good with vacumm making it want to die and you getting vacumm to it it can still be bad. it has a vavle and seat internally, mine was so carboned up that it wasnt sealing all the way and made the runner miss bad, then it got worse to where it would barely run so I say block it off and see if it runs better, only to bolts and a piece of soda can, loosen it off the back of the intake, cut a piece of soda can large enough to block the hole and then put it in there and bolt it back on and try it. it may be your problem, and it only takes a couple minutes to do!!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Bleeder....Nope, look again, that's the "DOOR OPEN" LIGHT that always comes on when pulling the top. I used to have it licked but forgot how to do it.

Anyway, I'll check that link, thanks, ...I have to go do a party but I'll be back soon and update the homies! lol

I tried the new TPS(took out the TB and adjusted according to 4Crawlers specs on the bench....2.3k, perfect reading) ....but it's still doing much of what it did before. However, the Idle is higher right off the bat and then idles down and doesn't run as rough, but it's still bobbin around like a Cam'd 427, hahaha. Changed the symptoms quite a bit though. It doesn't hesitate AS MUCH(still does though at first), and does the take off like a bat out of hell thing MUCH EARLIER, like 1500rpm. Then, driving around the block, it still seems to be lacking a lil 'umph', yet, by the time I pull in the garage, like that video, it's idling at 1000rpm and holds there, then idles down to 750 and holds a while, then finally, the last time I drove it around, to 650-700rpm and holds, but still missing(not sure missing is the right word, ...misfiring/not enough fuel pressure/not enough air??????? ...NOT SURE! LOL.)

I'll check in after the party, BBQ EVERYTHING, lol...and I'll post some more vids of the newest conditions/symptoms, ok?

Thanx, guys, and I'd really appreciate some more input when you guys have a chance to watch these vid's above?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, sorry Cougar, I'm still thinking it could be the EGR system and I should check that out right quick, next.(MODULATOR included!) I did ask here if anyone knew if that check can damage a brand new motor(blocking the EGR off), but don't remember getting any responses. Can anyone tell me, just to be sure, that's ok to do, what Cougar is suggesting? No offense, Cougar, I just worry about build up of Crankcase vapors/soot, etc. I'll be back though, and I'll probably try that next!

Thanks Cougar,

Mark

iamsuperbleeder

lol, ah okay

different layout than my 91, so I was just guessing

thook

You're not going to damage a new motor by blocking off the EGR.

Chef.......no offense, bro. But, you seem to be in so much stress over this. Everyone's thrown in their two cents (including myself) and you don't seem to be getting anywhere. What I'd suggest is making a list of everything you've tested and ruled out as being good or bad. Back tracking is crazy and throwing any more parts at it is crazier. Before you test anything, make sure you're meter is working right and on the right settings. Then, if the part (TPS, for example) tests good, test at the ECU connector to make the correct signals are getting to the ECU.

c0ugar69

yea you wont damage it, its just an emmisions thing that recirculates the exhaust gases through for a second burn, anyways its an easy check the way I said and then if thats it you can get a new EGR valve. I wouldnt worry too much about the modulater since you were getting the vacumm to the egr under higher rpms. just try it. its a free check!!! unless its the problem.

c0ugar69

except the cost of the soda.. make sure to get your favorite and gulp it down to be refreshed before you do the block.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Thook,

Yeah, sorry, ...I'm not really losing it over it but it has got to me on occasion, lol. I have been making up a checklist and I'll post it here, soon. The thing with that is, I think I keep second guessing whether something is 'JUST SAYING IT'S OK', hahaha. The TPS was actually free for me, in the end, so I figured 'why not?', but yeah, I guess I'm feeling so reactionary over the symptoms of others, etc., because they seem so similar. I actually REALLY enjoy most ALL of this, ....it's just the 'hitting a wall' thing, so yeah, a rule it out kinda list, AGAIN, is the way to go, lol.

Ok, sure, why not. I'll try that out tomorrow, after my daughters Graduation. YEP, second one to officially be LAUNCHED, lol. I think that has a lot to do with my frustrations, too, haha. But anyway, sure thing, Cougar, I'll check that out tomorrow. And actually, I have an EGR Block Plate from LCE(not sure why they put it in there, lol)..so I'll use that. It's strange, because, with the new TPS, it's idling higher and it actually did something it's not done in a while, ....it rose in idle at one point, sitting, all on it's own, twice, to 1200rpm and then back down. It could be a coolant air bubble from losing a teeny bit when pulling the hoses to the TB for a second before blocking them off, causing the IACV to trip out momentarily. We'll see, I'm not gonna freak out over it, but I'd sure like to share not only what the problem is, to help others, but to, well, to HAVE A YEEEEEEEEEHAWWWWWWWWW with y'all, too! Hey, trust me, I'M GRATEFUL it's not leaking, not a single drop, and I've done pretty good on most of it, .....just TMI, I guess, lol.

Thanks, guys,

Ttysoon,

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha, ...sorry, didn't see that, ...very thorough plan, Cougar,....I like it! lol. BTW, ...>I don't seem stressed out in those videos, do I? I'm really not so stressed as perplexed, hehehe.

-ON, BROTHERS!

Kiroshu

Wait i thought i asked you if you unplugged the vac line to the egr and drove it to see if it helped. Eh... i forgot.. It could very very well be stuck open. If it opens at idle this will seem to have the issue your having. And EGR issue is very noticeable at Accelleration. But once you reach crusing speed or highway speeds it will seem to go away because thats the only time the egr is supose to open. You may have a combo of problems and the EGR seeming to be one of them.

Very surprised it was not the AFM. But now we are getting narrower and narrower.

^Try EGR. If its stuck open you may need to remove it totally and see what you get.

Just buy the sound of your truck it seems like its EGR stuck open or opening way to early one. It does not seem to run lean or miss too much its just "boggy" at idle and accelleration.

c0ugar69

hey chef, I think to put the block off plate on you will have to remove the egr all together, to just check it real quick put the soda can piece inbetween the egr and intake just to block any thing that may be getting past the EGR valve, this will let you know if the egr is bad or not and only takes a few minutes to do. I left the soda can piece in mine till I can get another EGR valve. its been running good. let us know the results. also the surging idle could be that its idleing too high and that will make it surge like that.