lululalalu

I think it may be a W56-B…

http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...built-complete

I looked at the Transmission Application Table (mine is an 88 22R-E) then the pictures.

It also has a number sampled on the bottom (70804484) just rear of the drain plug.

Does anyone know how to look up the number?

What happens if I slightly overfill both front & rear diffs, tranny, and transfer?

I’ve been doing it for years but that doesn’t mean it aren’t stupid? Nothing crazy, just jack up the fill side then add until it runs out.

Team420

I wouldnt worry too much about overfilling a 5spd tranny... I mean, if u put 2-3 qts over... then ya... ur askin for trouble. a lil wont likely hurt anything...

As for an auto.... never, ever over fill it at all! you do more damage over filling an auto, then running it low...

MudHippy

If you have an 88 W56 then it's either an A or B and you need the red one.

You've been doing this for years eh?

Well one of these times you'll figure out that over-filling them isn't possible. Unless you're trying to that is. BTW, no don't jack nothing up. You're supposed to fill them with the vehicle parked on a level surface.

lululalalu

Dear all,

My ball seat and shift socket are on order.

I added ~1/4 quart of Lucas to the tranny.

If the 5th gear whine loudness was 50 before, it is 49 now. I think only I (the daily driver) would notice the difference.

So… some said adding too much Lucas would make shifting difficult during cold months.

Should I add any more Lucas?

Junkers88

Some noise is to be expected on a rig as old as ours. As the primary driver you'll notice things that others won't, just depends on if it's regular noise or something else.

As far as the shifter seats go mine were white (1989 4runner W56 top shift) I'll add some pictures on how to replace them.

Remove the console bezel (if you have it) and remove these 6 screws. Remove the shift knobs and pull that plate and shift boot up and off the shifters.


Pull these 4 screws/bolts.


Install the shifter seat and little end thing (can't remember the name right now) and reinstall everything in reverse order.


Drive and enjoy.


Oh and NO, my tranny/t-case is not that dirty and leaky anymore..... I'd forgotten how bad that thing was when I bought it. /me embarrassed.

Mr.Utah

I just happen to put a w56 in my truck that whines like my old one. Yesterday I drained all gear oil out. Put the lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in, like whats on mudhippies page. Now, rolled out of the driveway this am, hit the freeway, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I cant believe it, I was not expecting any difference really, but it is now a lot lot more quiet. Thanks for all the recomendations. (I used almost the whole bottle)

MudHippy

Sorry I missed your question 'til just now.

My theory is that the seat, in particular, holds the shifter lever in the correct position. Without it when driving in 5th gear the shifter boot wants to push the shifter lever out of alignment. Because that's when the boot is stretched the farthest by it. This slight misalignment of the shifter lever that it causes puts a sideways force on the the shift and select lever and shift rail. That force is ultimately translated to the 5th gear shift fork and hub sleave. Which is enough to make the hub sleave scrape slighty against the synchro. The noise is likely then coming from the friction of the synchro wearing out ever so slowly. As if you were gently trying to shift out of 5th without using the clutch ALL THE TIME. I noticed before I ever bought the seat and socket that by holding the shifter lever a certain way I could make the whining stop. Then I upgraded those parts and now I don't have to.

Why does Lucas Oil Stabilizer work. Because it reduces friction and lessens wear between components...supposedly.

lululalalu

So should I add more to mine or will it be difficult to shift? I’m probably around 1/4 a bottle in there now.

Mr.Utah

MY tranny is on its last leg, so I thought what the heck. After draining the oil I put almost the whole bottle of Lucas in, then refilled with fresh gear oil. It was not hard to shift at all andthe grinding noise went away. Of course its not exactly cold now.

peckinpah

I bought some Lucas "Mystery" Oil Stabilizer today, and added about a third of a bottle to my 2 WD (W 56?) transmission.

I had been noticing some sounds when I lugged out the engine in too high a gear (or came close to doing that) that were not really what I would call "grinding". I would describe it more like "lubricated metal parts rubbing together under load". I don't remember hearing the noise before. so I was a little concerned that my 230,000 mile transmission might be wearing out.

Anyway, I added the Lucas stuff, and took the truck for a test drive. It seemed noticeably quieter. Not that it was all that bad before, but the metal on metal sound is all but gone, at least from what I could tell during a 4 mile test drive.

So I'm giving the stuff a tentative thumbs-up. It's sort of a Seafoam for your transmission. Maybe it works, and maybe it doesn't. but it sure seems to. It may just be the placebo effect, but hey, 10 bucks is not much money for some peace of mind.

lululalalu

Ok, so here is the update…

-I did the Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer.
-It costs ~$45 (3 x 75w90, 1 x Lucas, 1 x gear oil hand pump).
-I’ve now got almost one full Lucas in the W56-B tranny. The remainder is fresh 75w90.
-If tranny noise was 50 before, it was 49 after treatment.

-I did the Marlin Crawler ball seat and shifter socket.
-It costs ~$24 (shipping included).
-The stick feels MUCH more firm. I have not driven it enough yet to form an opinion. But I think the old sloppy shifter went into gear easier. I like the feel of this better, but I can’t shift sloppy like I used to without a tiny bit of grind. I’m still adjusting to it.
-If tranny noise was 49 before, it was 48 after treatment.

-I sound deadened and insulated the cab (floor from firewall to the back seat).
-It costs ~$70.
-First, remove everything bolted or screwed to the floor.
-I used butyl tape (USeal Band 6 in. Aluminum Foil Self-Adhesive Repair Tape) to reduce vibration transmission of sound (deaden).
-I used 1/8 in. duct wrap (Thermwell Products 12 in. x 15 ft. Duct Insulation) and quality spray adhesive to block sound (attenuate).

Comment - You need to do both (deaden and attenuation). Here is an attempt to describe my understanding of the difference between the butyl tape and the duct wrap effect on sound.

Imagine your cab is the inside of an acoustic guitar. You place deadener on the body of the guitar. Deadener stops the guitar body from (vibrating) amplifying and resonating the sound. But you can still hear it. Next you fill the space between you and the body with insulation. The insulation makes the sound waves do work as they pass through the attenuation material, thereby loosing energy i.e. less noise.

-I deadened ~80% of the tranny tunnel. I deadened ~35% of the remaining cab floor.
-I duct wrapped 100% of the tunnel and cab floor.
-If engine and tranny noise was 48 before, it was 34 after treatment.

I plan to pull the panels in the back, do them and the bed, and maybe the doors slowly over time. Doing just the cab made a huge difference. And I see no need to use expensive audio deadeners and attenuators. Those products would have quadrupled the costs.

Finally, a car audio website said that you need to deaden at least 25% of a surface but that you must attenuate as much as possible (>90%).

tj884Rdlx

i obviously read those instructions too quickly. thanx for jumpin' in to keep me from misguiding someone!


glad to hear positive results from some of you using the heavy duty stuff.