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3VZE Top End Rebuilding, Distributors, and Setting Timing
Reposting here since the other forums haven't had anything to offer in the past few days.
Calling all 3VZE experts
I am having a few issues with my 89 3.0 that may lead back to the same problems, but I am not sure where to start and need the thing running soon. Primarily is my inability to set the timing. I have just completed a top end rebuild, down to the intake gaskets, cleaned up the functioning knock sensor, new pigtail, new injector connectors, cleaned all other connections to engine harness pieces and rewrapped it entirely among other things. It was quite a bit of work but in the end I turned the key and it fired up no problem which surprised me that I did the work correctly.
My new issue begins when I removed the distributor to get a pry bar on the alternator to tighten the belts. That ended up killing the squeak there but putting the alternator back in has given me some issues. After reinstalling, fiddling with the timing settings, resetting TDC and the alternator every time I have only ben able to get puffs and wheezes from the tailpipe, loud backfiring up front, and entirely incorrect timing. Am I potentially missing something related to timing outside of the normal process of; TDC 0 mark on crank pulley, install distributor with markings in-line, plug it all back in and drive? It fired after harness rebuilding and before removing the distributor, just not after I have removed it and had to reset the timing.
I'll provide a pic as well but the distributor is old and probably garbage, I don't exactly have all the money in the world to spend on this after everything already but would it be worth replacing this even if it ran in this state? To be reasonable, I know its entirely unhealthy and is next on my list of components to replace, just want to know if I could get away with this temporarily because I'm broke as. I don't feel like this should stop me from being able to set a timing; just make it an un-fun process since it makes lining up my marks a little more difficult. This is also one of the main modules communicating with ECM for spark so it may address my later concerns.
I have more preexisting issues related to not getting any spark from the ignitor when the engine is hot but since it will always start for me cold I'm just worried about getting back to that semi-functioning state first.
Last edited by livergang; 07-10-2023 at 03:05 PM.
Reason: accidental blue text hard to read
I wouldn’t run that distributor like that I could see it causing all kinds of problems. Now onto the timing problem, have you checked to make sure you got the timing belt on right? Did you put a jumper in the diag connector? You sure it’s not 180 out? I take the 1 spark plug out and put my thumb over the hole and turn the motor by hand until I feel air blowing my thumb off and then line the TDC mark up and then stab the distributor in with the rotor pointed at cylinder 1 on the distributor cap.
If you aren't already doing it, you NEED to take the cover off the distributor during the install to ensure it's lined up correctly.
Also, there is essentially a gear wheel on the shaft of the distributor. When you insert the distributor, the grooves on this gear wheel will rotate the entire distributor clockwise as you push it down into place. Because of this, when you initially go to line up your marks on the distributor for installation, line it up so it looks like you are one tooth off COUNTER CLOCKWISE. As you push it down into place those grooves on the gear wheel will rotate the distributor clockwise, and you should end up with those marks being perfectly aligned.
line it up so it looks like you are one tooth off COUNTER CLOCKWISE
My distributor may be busted but yes the key was that every single time I installed it was 180 out or the one tooth off; she purrs like a 35 year old kitten. Kinda counter intuitive process but thanks for the help. It's back in semi running order now but I have more important problems to tackle like no more spark when it's warmed up as that is stopping me from timing while warm. I'm stumped on it but I will make it a separate post as its a separate issue.
They act as a crank trigger on our 3VZ-E's. My original unit finally quit and had to replace with O'Riely unit. The warm condition may be causing the rather old and tired signal coils to not be counting or getting the triggering for rhe ECM to fire the ignitor. But usually this will toss a check engine light code and a no-start for sure.
07-10-2023, 03:03 PM
