3VZE reborn one more time
11-14-2006, 11:10 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
3VZE reborn one more time
Bringing the old 3VZE back to life after death from a parachute.
This was already a high performance motor and it died pulling a 6x12 uhaul 600 miles at highway speeds when it burned a hole in a piston just before it got home. The bottom end didn’t look like it’d have gone another 10kmi either.
Ole yota got the job done, but gave it’s heart up in the process.
I want to swap, but the time’s not right so off a ordering and a fixin we go.
Parts from a variety of sources
In an attempt to get the 3.slow to run a little cooler I’ve ceramic coated every surface that sees fire. That’s combustion chamber, piston top, valve faces, exhaust ports and inside & out on the headers.
Before they are baked, and after
Pics of the iron
Some pics of the porting and polishing from a previous build. They don’t look like this stock that’s for sure
When all’s said and done it’ll be
Bored .040” over.
Ported and polished upper plenum, intake, heads and headers.
Crower Cams
NWOR headers
K&N FPIC & custom cold air ducting.
Jacobs Ignition
Oversize valves.
Ceramic coated combustion chambers, exhaust ports, valve faces and piston tops.
Balanced injectors
NWOR headers & Y-pipe, ceramic coated inside and out.
Summit Ø2.5” High Flow Catalytic converter, ceramic coated
Gibson Ø2.5” Cat Back Stainless Steel Exhaust.
And a Marlin clutch.
Next step is to finish the cold air kit for the fpic so it’ll stop breathing all that underhood hot air. Cold air in, flow as nice as you can, hit fire, everything is ceramic from there out.
All about the flow.
As it ran before, it was little stronger down low but you know where the stock 3VZE starts gasping at 4200? This one just keeps pulling harder, all the way to redline. It probably only makes 25% more power than a stock motor, but it has way more ‘area under the curve’.
The ceramic and bigger valves added in this build can only make it better. {I hope}
This is as far as I got today.
This was already a high performance motor and it died pulling a 6x12 uhaul 600 miles at highway speeds when it burned a hole in a piston just before it got home. The bottom end didn’t look like it’d have gone another 10kmi either.
Ole yota got the job done, but gave it’s heart up in the process.
I want to swap, but the time’s not right so off a ordering and a fixin we go.
Parts from a variety of sources
In an attempt to get the 3.slow to run a little cooler I’ve ceramic coated every surface that sees fire. That’s combustion chamber, piston top, valve faces, exhaust ports and inside & out on the headers.
Before they are baked, and after
Pics of the iron
Some pics of the porting and polishing from a previous build. They don’t look like this stock that’s for sure
When all’s said and done it’ll be
Bored .040” over.
Ported and polished upper plenum, intake, heads and headers.
Crower Cams
NWOR headers
K&N FPIC & custom cold air ducting.
Jacobs Ignition
Oversize valves.
Ceramic coated combustion chambers, exhaust ports, valve faces and piston tops.
Balanced injectors
NWOR headers & Y-pipe, ceramic coated inside and out.
Summit Ø2.5” High Flow Catalytic converter, ceramic coated
Gibson Ø2.5” Cat Back Stainless Steel Exhaust.
And a Marlin clutch.
Next step is to finish the cold air kit for the fpic so it’ll stop breathing all that underhood hot air. Cold air in, flow as nice as you can, hit fire, everything is ceramic from there out.
All about the flow.
As it ran before, it was little stronger down low but you know where the stock 3VZE starts gasping at 4200? This one just keeps pulling harder, all the way to redline. It probably only makes 25% more power than a stock motor, but it has way more ‘area under the curve’.
The ceramic and bigger valves added in this build can only make it better. {I hope}
This is as far as I got today.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 11-15-2006 at 06:20 AM.
11-15-2006, 06:23 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
I was thinking about a megasquirt & wideband O2, but don't want to be the guinea pig.
Yea, that that'd make it faster...
It has occured to me that it may be at the top of the game for these injectors under a full load. I do see some pretty high EGT (1500°) when it's really being hammered. Then again, the combustion chambers didn't look very lean when I did the teardown. I wonder if they are on the ragged edge of maxed out.
I may never know what caused her to blow. Though I did notice yesterday that the AFM has a squeeky door.
What about boosting the fuel pump? is such a thing available?
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 11-15-2006 at 06:34 AM.
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11-19-2006, 02:51 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Finally got the cold air duct designed and stuffed the motor in today.
I have never had one line up so easily. I went from lowering it into the compartment to all bolted up in like 5 minutes.
Got it all in and tight, then used the hoist again to make room for the headers. Still have to tighten them down, but they are all on the studs now.
Lined up it's motor mounts and it's all fastened down now.
Tomorrow I have to put the EFI & emissions together (upper plenum is just resting there now.)
Some progress anyway...
I have never had one line up so easily. I went from lowering it into the compartment to all bolted up in like 5 minutes.
Got it all in and tight, then used the hoist again to make room for the headers. Still have to tighten them down, but they are all on the studs now.
Lined up it's motor mounts and it's all fastened down now.
Tomorrow I have to put the EFI & emissions together (upper plenum is just resting there now.)
Some progress anyway...
11-19-2006, 03:11 PM
#10
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Nice build. How many extra ponies do you think you will get with everything that you have done???
And since it seems you do alot of your own engine repairs, let me ask you this. Whats the easiest way to get to the engine mounts with out removing a ton of stuff, or is there no easy way?? Input woud be helpful.
And where do you get most of your parts for the 3.slow.
And since it seems you do alot of your own engine repairs, let me ask you this. Whats the easiest way to get to the engine mounts with out removing a ton of stuff, or is there no easy way?? Input woud be helpful.
And where do you get most of your parts for the 3.slow.
11-20-2006, 05:12 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
I've no idea on the # of horses and there's some discrepency as to what stock RWHP is.
The last iteration is a bit stronger than stock down low, comes alive at 3k and pulls hard all the way to redline. A stocker gasps at 4200. I'd say it's maybe 25% stronger than stock but has a whole lot more area under the curve.
Pulling a motormount is easy. 2 bolts at the frame and undo the ones on the block and the whole thing is out.
Yes, they are engnbldr's 1mm oversize valves that I've added this time. It's also bored .040" over and got the ceramic treatment.
I agree, I should NEVER have put all this $ into the 3VZE. All I can say is that I got suckered by an experienced con artist who's conned a number of other YTers too. I should'a done a swap. Woulda, shoulda, coulda, hindsight is always 20/20. Learn from mistakes and move on.
If my driveway wasn't tilted at 10° and I had a place to work and winter wasn't here I'd have done a swap this time.
Gotta admit I'm looking forward to it running again. Much as I love my motorcycle, I'm getting tired of having to ride it all the time.
The last iteration is a bit stronger than stock down low, comes alive at 3k and pulls hard all the way to redline. A stocker gasps at 4200. I'd say it's maybe 25% stronger than stock but has a whole lot more area under the curve.
Pulling a motormount is easy. 2 bolts at the frame and undo the ones on the block and the whole thing is out.
Yes, they are engnbldr's 1mm oversize valves that I've added this time. It's also bored .040" over and got the ceramic treatment.
I agree, I should NEVER have put all this $ into the 3VZE. All I can say is that I got suckered by an experienced con artist who's conned a number of other YTers too. I should'a done a swap. Woulda, shoulda, coulda, hindsight is always 20/20. Learn from mistakes and move on.
If my driveway wasn't tilted at 10° and I had a place to work and winter wasn't here I'd have done a swap this time.
Gotta admit I'm looking forward to it running again. Much as I love my motorcycle, I'm getting tired of having to ride it all the time.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 11-20-2006 at 05:14 AM.
11-20-2006, 05:36 AM
#15
Registered User
oh wait you didnt have the 1mm oversized valves until this recent build?
What kinda bike is that? I've been looking at grabbing a used, already been laid over, gsxr600...
ps - 25% more than stock means this 3vze = your 5vzfe!
What kinda bike is that? I've been looking at grabbing a used, already been laid over, gsxr600...
ps - 25% more than stock means this 3vze = your 5vzfe!
11-20-2006, 05:59 AM
#17
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Thread Starter
Correct, the oversize valves were done this time.
Bike is a V-Rod.
Peak power is (seat of the pants) 25% more. I would not say 25% across the board. On the high end it's way stronger.
It was years ago and I can't find the printouts, but when I put the stock '91 and this one on the chassis dyno (if memory serves) the stocker hit 94RWHP and this one got like 120 peak RWHP.
{I'm on the lookout for those dyno printouts, I'm such a packrat I can't imagine throwing that away...}
However I've seen many disagree with the 94RWHP# and claiming that a stocker should be a lot higher.
I can tell you that when I drove them both, the '91 ran good and this one is noticeably more powerful with a much wider powerband. The stocker would gasp at 4200rpm and not pull any harder, this one pulls hard right to redline which is nice for passing because I can complete the pass before shifting.
Having recently driven a new stock '06 Taco 4.0 w/ auto trans I can tell you that the new trucks would smoke mine.
Bike is a V-Rod.
Peak power is (seat of the pants) 25% more. I would not say 25% across the board. On the high end it's way stronger.
It was years ago and I can't find the printouts, but when I put the stock '91 and this one on the chassis dyno (if memory serves) the stocker hit 94RWHP and this one got like 120 peak RWHP.
{I'm on the lookout for those dyno printouts, I'm such a packrat I can't imagine throwing that away...}
However I've seen many disagree with the 94RWHP# and claiming that a stocker should be a lot higher.
I can tell you that when I drove them both, the '91 ran good and this one is noticeably more powerful with a much wider powerband. The stocker would gasp at 4200rpm and not pull any harder, this one pulls hard right to redline which is nice for passing because I can complete the pass before shifting.
Having recently driven a new stock '06 Taco 4.0 w/ auto trans I can tell you that the new trucks would smoke mine.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 11-20-2006 at 06:04 AM.
11-20-2006, 06:06 AM
#18
Registered User
What did you do about your oiling issue? IDK what my exact pressure is but even when cruizing on the hwy I have much higher oil pressure then I did stock, according to the stock gauge. Might just be the new oil pump. I deffinately plan on using an oil cooler on this build next summer.
11-20-2006, 06:13 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
I took the stock unit to a radiator shop and had it acid boiled out. We'll see...
Also according to the machinist, the crank was half a thou undersize. Apparently schmuckly didn't machine it correctly.
Honestly, I won't have an answer to this question for another day or three...assuming I don't run into a snag.
In it's last iteration it would get 60-70psi cold, hold 35-40psi hot running down the highway, 5ish hot idle. I'm guessing that's why the bearings looked like they did.
I'm also told that running 20w50 can damage the oil pump because it's housing is aluminum and gets stretched. Not sure I buy this, but will do what I'm told and run 5w30 in it in the beginning.
Also according to the machinist, the crank was half a thou undersize. Apparently schmuckly didn't machine it correctly.
Honestly, I won't have an answer to this question for another day or three...assuming I don't run into a snag.
In it's last iteration it would get 60-70psi cold, hold 35-40psi hot running down the highway, 5ish hot idle. I'm guessing that's why the bearings looked like they did.
I'm also told that running 20w50 can damage the oil pump because it's housing is aluminum and gets stretched. Not sure I buy this, but will do what I'm told and run 5w30 in it in the beginning.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 11-20-2006 at 06:15 AM.
11-20-2006, 08:44 AM
#20
Registered User
Sounds to me like your problem was a bad machine job on the bottom end rather then an oiling problem. FWIW I asked around and the 3.4 runs exactly the same oil pressure and the 3.0.
