3VZE oil cooler is $474
10-25-2006, 09:50 PM
#41
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I dropped it off.
It's been freezing cold lately and my transport is a motorcycle. Machining isn't done so I wasn't in a hurry to go pick it up.
The guy seemed confident when he looked at it.
I think if you want to do that you can just get whatever factory fitting is screwed into the front spot and plug the H20 lines.
It's been freezing cold lately and my transport is a motorcycle. Machining isn't done so I wasn't in a hurry to go pick it up.
The guy seemed confident when he looked at it.
I think if you want to do that you can just get whatever factory fitting is screwed into the front spot and plug the H20 lines.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 10-25-2006 at 09:52 PM.
02-28-2007, 05:28 AM
#42
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Oil cooler
Heck I replaced my engine and ran into the same dilemma. I finally decided that the oil cooler was built well and could be cleaned. I asked a guy I know who works for a local Toyota dealer and he said Toyota tells them to just wash them out with brake cleaner! I said wow I can do that!
I soaked mine in brake cleaner for about 3 days. Cleaned it out and reinstalled it. The oil is filtered before it gets to the oil cooler anyway so it's not like theres chunks of crap in there,... unless your oil filter has reached it's bypass mode at some point which i doubt.
Anyway they can be cleaned, but it takes some patience. I soaked mine and you have to shake it around and hold it at some funny angles to get it to drain out because of the way the chambers are designed inside. I kept washing it out and air cleaning until i saw no more black or brown fluid washing out. Saved myself that 500 bucks which paid for my new knock sensor and wire (and a remote starter for that matter
) but it cost me about 2 hours time total and about 5 cans of brake cleaner @ 2.78 per can. So it can be done successfully. The other option was to install a oil cooler elliminator which i wasn't very keen on since i use my truck for pulling the boat.
My only concern was thet the cooler wasn't cracked inside, so I took it a step further and plugged one coolent port and drew a vacuum down on the other coolent port with my vacuum brake bleeder. It lost no vacuum so I was good to go. In hindsight I should have done the vacuum test BEFORE bothering to clean it out in case it was bad I wouldn't lose the extra time cleaning a bad cooler.
I soaked mine in brake cleaner for about 3 days. Cleaned it out and reinstalled it. The oil is filtered before it gets to the oil cooler anyway so it's not like theres chunks of crap in there,... unless your oil filter has reached it's bypass mode at some point which i doubt.
Anyway they can be cleaned, but it takes some patience. I soaked mine and you have to shake it around and hold it at some funny angles to get it to drain out because of the way the chambers are designed inside. I kept washing it out and air cleaning until i saw no more black or brown fluid washing out. Saved myself that 500 bucks which paid for my new knock sensor and wire (and a remote starter for that matter
) but it cost me about 2 hours time total and about 5 cans of brake cleaner @ 2.78 per can. So it can be done successfully. The other option was to install a oil cooler elliminator which i wasn't very keen on since i use my truck for pulling the boat.My only concern was thet the cooler wasn't cracked inside, so I took it a step further and plugged one coolent port and drew a vacuum down on the other coolent port with my vacuum brake bleeder. It lost no vacuum so I was good to go. In hindsight I should have done the vacuum test BEFORE bothering to clean it out in case it was bad I wouldn't lose the extra time cleaning a bad cooler.
Last edited by rworegon; 06-28-2014 at 08:31 AM.
02-28-2007, 06:41 AM
#44
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02-28-2007, 06:53 AM
#45
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I say use the ATF cooler in your radiator for an oil cooler using that sandwich plate, and install an oil pressure gauge on the return line. Pressure on the return line should mean you have flow. You could even install a check valve in the lines to make sure the pressure was coming from the cooler side. I think the oil bypass is in the oil filter itslef but im not 100%.
If you want to blow out the trans cooler plumbing inside the radiator and mix coolant and engine oil, just connect the oil lines (high pressure, unlike trans fluid) as you describe. It will hold for a while, then fail. In other words, don't do it. You likely will regret it.
I bought a Radiator Barn radiator. I was thinking that I could use the trans cooler for oil cooling. After asking, I decided not to.
I am thinking about buying one of these.
http://cool-collar.com/
Anyone tried one out?
03-09-2019, 09:50 PM
#46
So I removed the oil cooler and the upper pipe/tube that connects with the smaller u-shaped rubber hose to the engine was full of orange/brown sludge and so is the pipe coming from the engine. I was able to clean out the oil cooler with brake cleaner and compressed air, but what is the best way to clean/clear out the pipe/tube coming from the engine? Pour distilled water down the radiator and hopefully it cleans it out? Any help is appreciated.
03-12-2019, 08:20 AM
#47
Thanks for the PN. I verified that it's what I need for an application that i'm working on. The part came back as discontinued without a replacement and is no longer available per Toyota. Here's a genuine OEM Toyota parts source showing that it's discontinued https://www.toyotapartsprime.com/oem...571065051.html . Looks like i'll have to check salvage yards or get an aftermarket replacement.
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