3VZE not sparking & Check Engine light won't come on.
09-27-2020, 08:37 AM
#41
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Location: Lively, Ontario, Canada
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ECU is powered no continuity at eco fuse read continuity = complete circuit, however igniter middle wire black with red stripe supposed to be 12V and to coil positive as well but nowhere close, distributor supposed to have power to it as well? Thought I also read 12v supply power.....if true which my 1991 has white x’s three into one G- and a yellow = G2 and green=G1 and red=NE, Resistance obviously cold I’ve got 220 through NE - G-.......aG1 - G- also with in spec at 221, and G2 - G- also 221, prior to traced wires fixed broke and exposed wire# however once fixed started periodically losing spark tried new coil and igniter nothing clean fender for bracket ground still noting battery groundupgraded nothing engine to firewall clean good still did nothing broke resistor wire for radio interference which also grounds at the base of igniter and oil bracket resister no longer,anufactured and nobody has one or can order on, a mechanic say you could probably just ground it directly to fender, solder job repaired broken wires and installed guess what Nothing, check resistance on knock sensor within spec been ten,on this since it last started,pulled injection cleaned fuel good flow no issues here all the clicks of relays before it starts when first position key to on just before ignition but engine rotates just still no spark I’m dying here and losing my love for this Toy! Gonna have a non fire soon please someone has had this happen to them, every other post regarding no spark I’ve read and tried diagnostic as described, ohhhh yaaaa, I also have a green with white stripe wire parallel to a pink wire with green stripe that is not connected to anything anymore can not find where this stupid 5ung goes, though may have pulled it from behind dust plate behind timing belt but no diagram shows any5ing there for 1991 3vze this grey plug appears to be the female side of the plug, this no spark thing also started after oil change and oil filter change to which I removed the yellow oil pressure sensors wire, I am so frustrated with this issue seemingly common with no common fix HELP PLEASE
03-20-2022, 05:52 PM
#43
Registered User
Turned engine off with crank and no restart two hours later.
This forum has really helped me with my truck. I'm not as bright as some of you so your references to the "AFM" kept flying right over my head. Even though I've removed the plug wrongly on one other occasion while replacing the part, it was so long ago that, once again, I chose to remove the screws on either end of the plug. It seemed like the obvious way to disconnect it. I put it back and undid the clip as that was the proper way. Now, the truck cranks but won't start, and from what you guys are saying, I will first try to check the possibility that I screwed up the plug, then I will check the FI fuse/relay. No one else has touched the truck in 20 years and I have all FSM's that I ordered when I purchased the truck new. I will save this thread to refer back to as I find my way out of this problem.
03-20-2022, 11:55 PM
#44
Registered User
Once you have removed the two mounting screws, and took off the plug, the damage has been done.
There are some delicate components that are hard wired to the pins on the inside of the enclosure that the plug connects to.
You most likely have damaged some, or all of the connections on the inside of the plug.
Putting the plug back on will not restore those connections.
You have two options: 1.) Cut the adhesive that holds the cover on the enclosure, open it carefully, observe any damage, and repair as needed
2,) If this is beyond your skill set, Ebay is your next best bet,
Good Luck.
Art.
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old87yota (03-21-2022)
07-02-2022, 12:41 PM
#45
These are the symptoms when the EFI relay isn't working. I actually have my kill switch installed in the wire that comes from the IGN fuse to the EFI relay to disable the ECU. If the ECU isn't getting power then the ignitor won't be getting power and will appear to be bad. So check for power to the ECU first.
The check engine light won't come on if the ECU isn't getting power from the EFI relay.
Check the IGN fuse in the driver's kick panel fuse box (supplies power to the coil side of the relay). Check the EFI fuse in the engine compartment fuse box (supplies power through the EFI relay to the ECU.) Check the "gauge" fuse in the kick panel (supplies power to the check engine light). I have had a loose fuse socket cause intermittent problems like yours also so try moving the fuses with the key "on" and see if the check engine light comes on or flickers.
If the fuses are good, then the EFI relay may be bad. Pull out the relay and test it for operation.
If the relay is good, check for 12v on the hot terminal of the relay socket with the key off. This is coming from the EFI fuse which is hot all the time.
If the power is good, check for 12v on the coil side of the EFI relay with the key in the "on" (not acc) position. This is coming from the IGN fuse, which is hot with the key "on".
If all this is good so far, you need to test the ECU itself. Pull off the passenger side kick panel and you'll see the ECU. There are three 10mm bolts that hold it in place and it helps if you unbolt it and pull it out to access the terminals.
As you look at the ECU from the connector side, the two white with red stripe wires on the lower right are the power wires from the EFI relay. Check for 12v on both with the key "on". If you have a manual trans then the seventh wire from the bottom right should be violet and comes from the check engine light. Pull out the connector to prevent any accidentally touching the wrong wire and ground that terminal with the key on and the check engine light should come on. The "gauge" fuse supplies power to the check engine light so check that if the light doesn't come on.
If all this checks out, then it's time to try testing and replacing parts.
Good luck,
Bugs
The check engine light won't come on if the ECU isn't getting power from the EFI relay.
Check the IGN fuse in the driver's kick panel fuse box (supplies power to the coil side of the relay). Check the EFI fuse in the engine compartment fuse box (supplies power through the EFI relay to the ECU.) Check the "gauge" fuse in the kick panel (supplies power to the check engine light). I have had a loose fuse socket cause intermittent problems like yours also so try moving the fuses with the key "on" and see if the check engine light comes on or flickers.
If the fuses are good, then the EFI relay may be bad. Pull out the relay and test it for operation.
If the relay is good, check for 12v on the hot terminal of the relay socket with the key off. This is coming from the EFI fuse which is hot all the time.
If the power is good, check for 12v on the coil side of the EFI relay with the key in the "on" (not acc) position. This is coming from the IGN fuse, which is hot with the key "on".
If all this is good so far, you need to test the ECU itself. Pull off the passenger side kick panel and you'll see the ECU. There are three 10mm bolts that hold it in place and it helps if you unbolt it and pull it out to access the terminals.
As you look at the ECU from the connector side, the two white with red stripe wires on the lower right are the power wires from the EFI relay. Check for 12v on both with the key "on". If you have a manual trans then the seventh wire from the bottom right should be violet and comes from the check engine light. Pull out the connector to prevent any accidentally touching the wrong wire and ground that terminal with the key on and the check engine light should come on. The "gauge" fuse supplies power to the check engine light so check that if the light doesn't come on.
If all this checks out, then it's time to try testing and replacing parts.
Good luck,
Bugs
Even though I had a slightly different problem with my Carina E 3S-FE, the information you wrote here helped me find a worn wire that was touching bare metal. (It was one of the wires coming in/out from the engine bay fuse box.).
After I got the CEL (Check engine light) back, I had no starter, solved that by replacing the starter relay.
Wasted 3 days before finding this thread!
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