3vze to Chevy 4.3L Swap
#21
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yeah, I know. I'm fighting a financial slow down right now that has me kinda out of my comfort zone. Just picked up a $400 a month tab for Blue Cross Blue Shield insurance because what I have here at work sux! It was cheaper, but it showed in coverage. Once I get adjusted to my new budget again, I will pick back up and rock on as usual. I just don't like sudden changes to my budget. Screws up my spending money!!!!
#22
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Why didn't you go with a Toy 3.4?? Better motor that won't die on you at 150k. Chevy is garbage. Sorry, but peoples trust of any GM products really just confuses me. That useless company has been churning out disposable garbage since 1971 and yet people still keep buying it.
#23
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Why didn't you go with a Toy 3.4?? Better motor that won't die on you at 150k. Chevy is garbage. Sorry, but peoples trust of any GM products really just confuses me. That useless company has been churning out disposable garbage since 1971 and yet people still keep buying it.
Seems like common sense to me....
#24
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Good luck, sounds like a fun job coming up!! Here's a great link for the blow me if you decide to go that way all kindsa goodies to be found!!
Jim
http://www.racingjunk.com/
Jim
http://www.racingjunk.com/
#25
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#26
I used to have a 2000 S-10 with a 4.3 and 5-speed (fast truck) It had 168,000 miles on it with NO problems. I changed the original spark plugs out when I bought it (157,000) just for kicks. I loved that engine. Ended up trading it for my toyota with 110,000 miles on it. And.....blown head gasket, burnt valves, etc. Saying that GM turns out "disposable garbage since 1971" is just ignorant. Especially love this part: "Why didn't you go with a Toy 3.4?? Better motor that won't die on you at 150k." HA HA, My 4.3 took more abuse from me than I would ever put on my toyota for fear of breaking something else.
#27
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Don't get me wrong, I love Toyota as much as any other person on this board (well, maybe not everybody), but there comes a point when you are weighing options where you have to choose what's best for yourself and what you intend to do with the vehicle. While I do have a decent job that pays me rather well, I have other financial obligations that dictate my weekly allowance for my "projects". This puts me in a situation where I have to evaluate the worth of what it is I want to do. In this particular case, I have researched both options, and decided that for roughly the same money I can go with the 3.4L and get 190HP@4800 / 220lb-ft@3600 w/ avg MPG of 16 / 20
OR
I can go with the Chevy 4.3L and get 190HP@4,400 / 250ft-lb@2,800 rpm w/ avg MPG of 16 / 22.
(I liked the fact that I was getting the same or better numbers at lower RPM)
The next thing that factored into my decision was realized costs. I got a donor vehicle complete with ECM, Harness, and engine for $350. I 'm sorry, but I just haven't had any luck finding someone who will let go of a 95 or newer Toyota w/ 3.4L for $350. It might happen where you live, but around these parts, if you want a Toyota that's worth having you have to search long and hard as well as be prepared to come off with some $$$. I drove over 200 miles (one way) to get the truck I have now. This was after searching for 18-19 months locally for a decent truck that met my requirements.
Another consideration was parts and mods. I have a good bit of experience working on Chevy motors since I have actually worked in 2 dealerships as a technician, and completed 3/4 of the GM ASEP program before loosing my license due to illegal drag racing. I am more than familiar with GM's methodology when it comes to building their engines. Toyota, not so much. This means that any mods would require a lot more research / time or paying someone that knows what they are doing for doing the mods for me. I'm not very big on "learning" when it comes to a daily driver. Granted, I will have to spend some money on a conversion kit, but this is what I meant by ?roughly the same money?
As I mentioned in previous posts, I have had 2 of the Astro Cargo Vans w/ the 4.3L in them that have gone in excess of 230K. The first one needed no major maintenance at all, and decided to give up on me after moving everything I owned from Ft. Walton Beach, FL to Birmingham, AL at an average speed of 85-90 fully loaded and pulling a 5?x13? trailer fully loaded. I knew it had an oil leak, but was trying to get out of town to avoid killing my ex-wife whom I had just caught cheating on me with my best friend. Needless to say I wasn?t as concerned with checking the oil as I should have been. The other I sold and have seen recently driving down the road. It?s still running and didn?t appear to be smoking or anything, and it was at 244K when I sold it.
OR
I can go with the Chevy 4.3L and get 190HP@4,400 / 250ft-lb@2,800 rpm w/ avg MPG of 16 / 22.
(I liked the fact that I was getting the same or better numbers at lower RPM)
The next thing that factored into my decision was realized costs. I got a donor vehicle complete with ECM, Harness, and engine for $350. I 'm sorry, but I just haven't had any luck finding someone who will let go of a 95 or newer Toyota w/ 3.4L for $350. It might happen where you live, but around these parts, if you want a Toyota that's worth having you have to search long and hard as well as be prepared to come off with some $$$. I drove over 200 miles (one way) to get the truck I have now. This was after searching for 18-19 months locally for a decent truck that met my requirements.
Another consideration was parts and mods. I have a good bit of experience working on Chevy motors since I have actually worked in 2 dealerships as a technician, and completed 3/4 of the GM ASEP program before loosing my license due to illegal drag racing. I am more than familiar with GM's methodology when it comes to building their engines. Toyota, not so much. This means that any mods would require a lot more research / time or paying someone that knows what they are doing for doing the mods for me. I'm not very big on "learning" when it comes to a daily driver. Granted, I will have to spend some money on a conversion kit, but this is what I meant by ?roughly the same money?
As I mentioned in previous posts, I have had 2 of the Astro Cargo Vans w/ the 4.3L in them that have gone in excess of 230K. The first one needed no major maintenance at all, and decided to give up on me after moving everything I owned from Ft. Walton Beach, FL to Birmingham, AL at an average speed of 85-90 fully loaded and pulling a 5?x13? trailer fully loaded. I knew it had an oil leak, but was trying to get out of town to avoid killing my ex-wife whom I had just caught cheating on me with my best friend. Needless to say I wasn?t as concerned with checking the oil as I should have been. The other I sold and have seen recently driving down the road. It?s still running and didn?t appear to be smoking or anything, and it was at 244K when I sold it.
#28
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It's been a while since I've posted anything due to a family medical emergency. I have also learned that the warehouse I work at is shutting down in March of 2008. Naturally, I have gone in to conservation mode as a result. I have done the ISR, and Airbox mods and I am happy with the results. I am trying to figure a way to bring in more cold air since the underhood temps get high enough to hamper any real gains achieved by the airbox mod. It's cold outdoors right now so it isn't a big issue, yet. Maybe I'll have it figured out soon and can share with all of ya'll.
Till next time,
Gator
Till next time,
Gator
#29
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I made it through Christmas!
I have actually ordered some new parts and hope to be updating this thread a little more frequently now. I have ordered a Detroit Locker for the rear end, 1-1/2" extended Shackles, 1-1/2" Ball Joint Spacers, and a Add-A-Leaf package for my rear springs.
I will post pics of the ISR & Air Box Mods as well as pics of the BJS and rear shackle and add-a-leaf install. If I have time, I will attempt the rear diff install next weekend as well.
I have actually ordered some new parts and hope to be updating this thread a little more frequently now. I have ordered a Detroit Locker for the rear end, 1-1/2" extended Shackles, 1-1/2" Ball Joint Spacers, and a Add-A-Leaf package for my rear springs.
I will post pics of the ISR & Air Box Mods as well as pics of the BJS and rear shackle and add-a-leaf install. If I have time, I will attempt the rear diff install next weekend as well.
Last edited by Gator; 12-29-2007 at 05:01 PM.
#30
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1.5" BJS came in today
It appears that I will be undertaking some suspension work this weekend. My 1.5" Ball Joint Spacers came in today from 4crawler Offroad, and I am expecting my extended shackles and add a leaf kits as well as my Detroit Locker for the rear.
I will try to get some pics up as quickly as possible. In the mean time here is a teaser:
I will try to get some pics up as quickly as possible. In the mean time here is a teaser:
#31
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It's now Friday and no rear locker. I was really hoping to be able to get it put in this weekend. Maybe next weekend.
I think I am going to go ahead and install the BJS and rear shakles this weekend anyway just to have something to do.
I think I am going to go ahead and install the BJS and rear shakles this weekend anyway just to have something to do.
#32
I agree with your decision to go with the 4.3, had that in my old blazer and it was pretty solid (good bang for the buck). I think the the 4L60E is not as bullet proof and cannot take as much abuse compared to the motor though - one of the reasons why I got rid of the blazer and bought my 3rd gen 4Runner.
You probably already know this but just make sure you change the intake manifold gasket on the 4.3 before you drop it in the yota 'coz those are notorious for going and will leave you stranded when they go ( I know this from experience).
I would recommend using the stock fuel pump on the yota 'coz those are more reliable than the one on the chevy. I know at least 10 people that needed to have theirs replaced on the blazer.
You probably already know this but just make sure you change the intake manifold gasket on the 4.3 before you drop it in the yota 'coz those are notorious for going and will leave you stranded when they go ( I know this from experience).
I would recommend using the stock fuel pump on the yota 'coz those are more reliable than the one on the chevy. I know at least 10 people that needed to have theirs replaced on the blazer.
#33
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Why didn't you go with a Toy 3.4?? Better motor that won't die on you at 150k. Chevy is garbage. Sorry, but peoples trust of any GM products really just confuses me. That useless company has been churning out disposable garbage since 1971 and yet people still keep buying it.
#34
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Well, it has been a long while since I have posted anything on my progress. I have gotten caught up with work, family, and local forums and let this one slide.
I have since had my Detroit installed along with 1.5" shackles and a minor torsion bar crank, 33x12.5.15 BFG MTR's and performed the ISR and airbox mods. I have taken it to a local ORV park and a couple of other challenging trails an it has performed beyond my expectations. Unfortunately, I ended up with some rock rash down the passenger side, but hey it just adds character!
Here are some pics of it since It has been a while.
http://picasaweb.google.com/destins....yota#slideshow
and pictures of my last ride at Gray Rock ORV park in Mt. Olive, AL.
http://picasaweb.google.com/destins....Park#slideshow
I have since had my Detroit installed along with 1.5" shackles and a minor torsion bar crank, 33x12.5.15 BFG MTR's and performed the ISR and airbox mods. I have taken it to a local ORV park and a couple of other challenging trails an it has performed beyond my expectations. Unfortunately, I ended up with some rock rash down the passenger side, but hey it just adds character!
Here are some pics of it since It has been a while.
http://picasaweb.google.com/destins....yota#slideshow
and pictures of my last ride at Gray Rock ORV park in Mt. Olive, AL.
http://picasaweb.google.com/destins....Park#slideshow
#36
Time to revive an old thread.
What is the update on the 4.3L installation?
Is it possible to take a late model, low mileage 4.3L Vortec engine and convert the electronic driven beast into a fully mechanical engine?
What is the update on the 4.3L installation?
Is it possible to take a late model, low mileage 4.3L Vortec engine and convert the electronic driven beast into a fully mechanical engine?
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