914runner

I did 2 of "The BIG 3" when I did my engine swap, NEG to Body, NEG to Block. I still need to do the alternator wire upgrade. I also upgraded my starter wire to 4 ga. while I was at it. When I put in the 3.4L I had to move the battery to the driver side and lengthened the cable to the fuse box but I decided to keep it how had it with the same gauge wire and fuseable link, etc. I have some of the problems that you have reported including the headlight dim when I push on the brake pedal and voltage drop when the blinkers are on. I plan to do this mod and hpefully it will fix all of my problems!
Thanks

Culpeper

Cool! I was a ROMAD during the late 70s early 80s. Airborne.

KevyWevy

i get the dip in voltage from the blinkers, and the intermitant radio turn off. i'll have to do this once im out of school for winter break. thanks for all the info!

mjwalfredo

My first post to the message board!
Anyway, does anyone know if replacing these main wires will yeild any benefits for a 1997 Runner with 180,000 mi? I don't seem to have any real problems but I wouldn't mind tapping into to some of the lost power you guys have refered to.

-Thanks.

sandcrawler

return of the long-long-lost post!

ROMAD

No idea on the 3rd gens, I am still driving my '95!

This fix has stood the test of time for me and I highly recommend it for all 2nd gen V6 owners. It resolved my original issues as well as adding a small but noticeable amount of "pep" in the part throttle acceleration.

Its been the single best fix yet and #2 would be 4Crawler headlight wiring harness upgrade and 9004 SilverStars (in that order otherwise the bulbs burn out way too early due to under voltage).

It would be great to hear from any other 2nd gen owners that have done this mod/fix and hear their results

freshman

i need to second this, i put a "high end" silverstar sealed beam before then got busted (both) after just 3 months. Luckily, i had a recall service for my headlight wiring harness and this imo fix the undervoltage problem that cause premature bulb death.

sandcrawler

what was the recall? do you have any other info? i am bringing my 93 in for the steering relay rod recall this week and if this is another item i can get done at that time all the better.

thanks in advance.

Dr.Feelgood

This might be OEM. That's exactly what mine looked like, including the blue wire. Though I don't know why they would do this at the factory. It sounds like the same thing Albin described. Anyway, I did the battery (+) to 80A fuse with 6ga cable, the battery (-) to the body with 4ga (battery cable) and the engine block to firewall with 6ga cable. All new ends, etc. I ran to the store and watched the voltmeter with my turn signal on and it still drops - about 2-3V. My lights also dim when the truck is at idle. When I step on it they brighten back up. This is all with just the lights and radio on. Anyone have any ideas why my upgrade didn't work, like something else I should upgrade like the alt-to-battery cable or maybe even that my alternator is weak? I was hoping this would take care of things.

Dr.Feelgood

Anyone have any thoughts on what causes my lights to dim at idle then brighten up when I step on the gas (idle is at 750rom)? I have since added a #4 welding cable from the alternator to the battery (+). Voltage still drops with turn signal on too.

photomike72

This interests me as well.

I have done 2 out of the "Big 3" and I still get the obvious light dimming and voltage dips. It runs good, but I dont want it to ever be an issue. I would love to get it all figured out, but I'm no E.E.

Mike

sandcrawler

*(re-)subscribes to thread*

netemcee

:bigclap: this post really made my weekend... I had the radio cutting out, dimming headlights, and after a couple weeks my battery would die, but everything would be fine if i charged the battery up.

i tried replacing the battery and the alternator, and i had three mechanics look at this problem and none of them got it right. it definitely wasn't the battery, and i can't be sure if the alternator was also a problem but it seems unlikely, cuz when i did the wire upgrade (2 ga) from the positive battery terminal to the fusebox everything has worked fine since.

FYI- mine is a 1994 4Runner, and it's been about a month, and the only noticeable battery fluctuation is when i put the blinkers on there is still a slight flicker on the battery gauge

jht3

how about the alternator->battery cable?

netemcee

i haven't done the battery->alternator cable but it's something i'm considering doing down the road. it wasn't necessary to fix my issues, however, it seems like a good idea. right now, i've got some other stuff to work on first.

Guardian_Saint

I am also diong this mod, I use a 2 guage to the starter and a 2 guage to the 80A ALT fuse, and also using a 6 guage NEG( was thinking using the 2 guage wire for the NEG but it is red wire instead of black...), but what I really want is to get a 2 guage wire to the alternator which I am trying to figure the one wire that goes to the 80A ALT fuse. \\\\\

SwampThing

Would these be worthwhile to do for the 22re's also? Instrument panel dims, radio cuts, and the speakers sound a little wierd when brake-checking tailgaters and when idle. REALLY noticable if my 2 130watt KC's are on...

ovrrdrive

Interesting thread...

I have had voltage issues for years on my truck.

It started when I guess I overloaded the electrical system and everything went off for a second and slowly came back on. Then, shortly after that the alternator went out and then the vehicle wouldn't charge even with a new battery and new alternator. I took it to a local alternator shop and told them to make it charge, and they did some afro-engineering behind the fuse box with a few diodes soldered inline between two wires and it started charging again, but now everytime I hit a turn signal or run any accessories the charge light flickers at me.

Nothing cuts out on mine, but everything is dim and weak and the charge light just flickers with every flash of a turn signal or when I put it in reverse.

I was going to run a new heavier gauge wire to my interior fusebox to try to correct my problem when I got around to it, but I will probably try this too. It can't hurt.

ROMAD

2+ years running this fix and my original problems have yet to return. I can notice the slightest of voltage fluctuations with a turn signal on but its nothing I am worried about at all. Heck the alternator has 150K on it and the battery is now 2+ years old

Wish I could get my front drums to stay warp free this long! I cant get more than 6 months on a set of fresh Brembos with new pads

Thats for another thread...you guys keep this one alive and keep posting your results!

86Original

This is a fusible link between the battery and the fuse box. It's supposed to be there for safety.