rattlecanpaint

So I finally got tired of my old 4 runner not starting randomly. Here's what I did. To be sure the starter was OK I just ran a 12 ga wire from the starter solenoid directly to the battery. (BE SURE IT'S IN NEUTRAL BEFORE DOING THIS!!!!!) Starter ran faster and sounded better than it ever had before. Ever. OK, starter relay is the problem so I found an old relay (Out of a BMW convertible I think) that was rated for 30 amps. Hooked my (previously used) jumper wire to the starter and one side of the contacts. Hooked the other contact side directly to the battery. I had a set of lights on the front of it at one point that got destroyed so they were removed. I found the wiring that went to the switch for them and hooked them to the coil side of the relay and power at the fuse box under the hood that was switched by the ignition switch. (So the starter can't be ran without ignition switch being on) Dunzo. Starts like a champ every time now with the added benefit of more theft security. Turn the key to "Run" flip light switch up until it starts and flip it down. I may get a push button or fighter jet type switch later for cool factor.

kvnptrjhnsn

Hi Everyone,

Newbie here. Been having the click no start issue on my 1994 dlx 4wd manual 5-speed. Problem is VERY random and will go away for days then come back. Sometimes I get 20 clicks before a start. Sometimes only one click. Battery is good, and I changed out the starter relay with no affect.

Everything I am reading here seems like adding the 12 ga jumper wire with a fuse to the relay is a good idea, which will probably fix the issue and has no downsides, correct? Also, since the relay is in the fuse box above the right wheel, does anyone have advice on getting the plug out and adding a wire? Seems like a different scenario compared to older trucks that have a relay on it's own. Any advice is much appreciated and cheers to all the useful data Rad4Runner and others have posted so far.

-Kevin

JoeS

I had a similar issue. I opened the relay (easy), sprayed cleaned the interior parts, and used fine sand paper to remove the the crust and corrosion from the two contact surfaces. I also cleaned and lightly sanded the connector plug prongs for good contact. Haven't had an intermittent no start since. I sealed the the relay case bottom perimeter edge joint with HVAC aluminized tape (Home Depot) to keep out moisture. It sticks to metal well.

dereka6

Kevin this is Derek. The starter solenoid just clicking is a common problem with the 22 r and the 22re engine., What has happened over the years the wire that runs from the ignition switch to the starter has built up excessive resistance.. Instead of delivering 12 v to the starter. It now delivers approximately 8 v. Which is insufficient power to crank the starter.. There is a $ 40,00 solution called hot shot kit. Takes about 15 minutes to install. Most car part distributors have them The last one I bought was from jegs. I have had mine installed for over 8 years, Works every time

kvnptrjhnsn

Thanks Derek. I've seen the hot-shot kit, and basically what I was referring to with the "12 ga wire to the relay." But what I haven't seen how to install one of these when the starter relay is inside a fuse box like on my 94...

scope103

"Click no start" is more often a problem with the starter solenoid, not the starter relay. The starter relay doesn't make much noise (or switch much current), so you're more likely hearing the solenoid. (Get some one to help turn the key, and then listen for where the click comes from.) If you can hear the solenoid close, then there is unlikely to be an issue between the starter relay and the solenoid, so your "12ga wire fix" wouldn't help. There are guides on this forum for how to rebuild the contacts in the solenoid (not too hard or expensive), or just replace the starter.

(Ever hear of clunking the starter with a hammer to get it to start? That's trying to fix bad contacts in the solenoid.)

The issue dereka6 is (probably) talking about is in earlier 4runners that had no starter relay, with the solenoid power going through the ignition switch. Rad4runner has the best write-ups on how to fix that (install a relay), but it doesn't apply to a '94.

kvnptrjhnsn

Understood. But I thought adding the jumper wire from the battery to the relay was a way of helping a worn solenoid?

scope103

If I had a worn solenoid that needed help, I'd fix the solenoid, not something else.

Yeah, it's possible that you have a deficiency in your relay or the wire from the relay to the solenoid, that's causing just enough of a voltage drop so that you can still hear the solenoid pull in, but it doesn't quite pull in well enough to turn the starter. Or, you have bad solenoid contacts. One of these possibilities is much more likely than the others.

RAD4Runner

Hi Kevin, Welcome to the forum.
A problem well-stated is a problem solved.
What clicks? The circuit opening relay? The starter relay? The starter solenoid*? If starter solenoid, is it an energetic clunk or a faint click?
Did you try connecting the male spade terminal on starter solenoid* directly to batt positive as I mentioned on my write-up? Did it consistently make the solenoid clunk energetically and the starter motor to turn?
*REMEMBER: The starter solenoid in Toyota terminology is the thing piggybacked on the starter motor. Starter solenoid in Ford terminology is the starter relay in Toyota terminology.

kvnptrjhnsn

Thanks for the reply Rad. Let me get back to you on those tests. Don’t have the right wires to do the battery-direct-to-starter test but will try soon. Do you agree with others that the wiring issue/relay hot shot fix is unlikely to apply to my 94?

kvnptrjhnsn

I ended up replacing the starter today (found a cheap remanufactured nippondenso so figured why not) and the truck is starting perfectly. Thanks for the advice everyone!

LisaLisa

Same with my 91. 4 starters, Amps are fine, new battery distributor wires, battery terminals.... Meanwhile thousands of dollars later it does the same thing.

RAD4Runner

You do not need new starters nor thousands of dollars to fix this problem. Only a few dollars worth of parts, after a few hours of reading this post (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...runner-307493/)
and doing your homework.

LisaLisa

So this happens usually when I drive about 20 miles. It’s not the starter 4 have replaced (people don’t listen) It’s intermittent so when people would bang on the starter or clean the contacts or put a new battery and it would start they thought the problem was solved. It’s none of that - already been done. However, I’d like to add when this happens you can’t pop start the truck it’s like it has no spark. If you look at the video when I do this, my dash lights will dim, and my stereo will go on and off, but the wiring has been checked. And it’s not the amps either. So I’m wondering if it’s the relay? You can hear it clearly hear it click. And on top of that, I have a mass flow air sensor problem, which I probably have to put on another thread, but you can hear that click in the relay but completely separate problem will post to another common thread. Ok.video wont download at work… I also saw a comment that I can’t find now or a person asked if it is leaking oil - And that it could be the relay or the contacts from the oil getting on it that’s another thing nobody can fix, but I don’t care right now that’s the least of my problems this combined with my mass airflow issue is a nightmare. Because If I can’t manage to hit stop signs or the light correctly and I have to stop in traffic and I don’t get the E brake just right and rub the engine the truck stalls cause I believe it’s the mass airflow and then if it decides to play the intermittent start game then I’m stuck it won’t start and usually I’ll wait an hour and it’ll start. It just depends on the day.