ovrrdrive

Everything ok?

Waiting on parts/time?

all_terrain17

No, I've run into a major problem.




Not sure if you can tell from the pics, but there's two cracks between plug holes 2 and 3, with a smaller crack connecting the two. I just discovered the cracks a while ago, and have been wondering if it could have happened from me flipping the head over on the wooden blocks to scrape surfaces. Another possibility is that the crack resulted from previous overheating. The scorched camshaft lobes, crack on the head, and burnt look on the valves all support this assumption.



Neighbor took a look at it and told me to have it looked at professionally, so Wednesday I'll be off to CarQuest. This isn't looking good though, and I believe I'm gonna be told to replace the head.

ironroad9c1

trust me those lobes arn't scorched , thats just varnish from oil where the rocker arm wasn't rubbibg on that part of the cam.and the stuff on the face of the valves is just carbon ,its normal ,really kinda clean if you want the truth .i don't think you will have any probs from that crack.

all_terrain17

Good info, I hope your right about the head. The crack is around where the head bolt runs through, but fortunately the oil to the rocker assemblies travels up on the passenger side, so no worries of a leak. I'm just worried that that the 58 ft. lbs in tandem with the high heat near the exhaust manifold would simply expand the crack. Guess we'll see.

crackerjack

I had work to my 22re and now I'm about ready to take timing cover back off because it leaks and that buggs me, understand these engines do that but maybe you can spend a little more time there so you can avoid this problem

crackerjack

you just posted but if you are in the area I've got my old head. I've got an LC eng. on my trk now. maybe you can use it?

trythis

That could be a deceptive casting flaw callled flashing that appears to be a crack, but is actually a place where the aluminum pushed out into the mold there. If so, it left a sharp ledge in the casting that when gets oil and fist pressed in creates the illusion of a crack. However, pixels are hard to examine that closely for the difference. I would file a little off to see if indeed it is a crack.

ovrrdrive

If that's a real crack, wouldn't it spread like a windshield crack over time?

Even if it pressure tests out ok, I would be scared to reuse it if that's a crack...

That sucks dude... I know what it feels like to go in and keep finding more ÅÅÅÅ that's wrong. Look at it this way though, you are now saving even more than you would have paid to have this all done for you.

ironroad9c1

yea clean it really good .might be tricking your eyes ,had to tell from a pic

all_terrain17

Here are more pictures of the crack. The one on the left has a definite ledge to it about a mm above the other side. (Sorry about the focus, It's the best I could get.)




As for good news, most of the parts from engnbldr are here. Definite thumbs up on the head gasket set! Appx. 60$ gets you most every gasket you need including those small airpipe gaskets Toyota wants 8$ each for. Timing cover should be here Thursday.


And I guess I'm almost finished cleaning the block. The 3m roloc pads definitely helped with the buildup on the pistons and block!


EDIT:
Took the head to have it looked at, and it should be reusable. Guy at the machine shop said he thought it would be ok as is. But for peace of mind he's gonna have a weld run down the cracks, and then machine them. I'm also gonna go ahead and have him do a valve job and have the head resurfaced. So another week of waiting...

engnbldr

>>>*I should print this whole thread and put a copy in every one of my kits....*LOL**..Sure is a good read.

Hurry up and start it, we want to know if it will run!....*EB

spirtlanimilbus

damn dude, those pistons look like they are brand new. i still cant get over the fram filter though. never can be too clean i reckon. that would be a good idea ted, the only thing i cant condone is a fram filter, black it out or something.... :pat:

87beat

This makes me feel so much more confident in having to do this soon. We need to make sure this thread stays here for AWHILE!

R

ovrrdrive

Honestly, seeing as how the pics are all on photobucket if you want to see this thread as it is now in a few weeks you better back up a local copy of it.

An excellent program for backing up webpages is HTTRACK. Check it out...

Photobucket can and will drop the pics eventually.

all_terrain17

Head is back from the machine shop, welded, cleaned, and decked.


Big glob of a weld


New clean surface


nice magnesium head gasket on


Head on. 30lbs, 45lbs, and finally the 58lbs. on the head bolts to get the head seated on the block.


Timing chain w/sprockets will come later tonight. I decided to go ahead and put the head on before the timing cover to ensure I get the timing assembly on right.

One question about the oil pump. It needs primed...I guess. Someone tell me how to do this. Do I simply fill the pump with oil and slide it on the crank?

Other things i was up to while the head was away -
New headlights and horn...


Pretty undercoated framerails and axle housing...

Sonofmayhem

real nice reading this makes me determined to rebuild my engine, then again i dont really feel like pulling it.

ovrrdrive

For the oil pump just pack it really well with vaseline. It also helps to put some vaseline in the groove to help hold the little rubber oring in until you mount the pump too.

The vaseline primes the pump so it sucks oil up from the pan and as soon as the oil heats up it liquifies into it and goes out with the first oil change. I've always done it like that...

TNRabbit

I wouldn' recommend vaseline; coat everything with STP oil treatment (it's thicker than crap and will stay on & provide protection while the engine is spinning up). I also recommend using it on the cylinder walls before startup, but you've already got the head on.

ovrrdrive

The search string prime oil pump vaseline will yield about 20000 people other than myself that have done, and recommend doing this to prime the pump.

When you have had the engine apart in a dirty garage you will need to change the oil shortly after firing it up anyway to get all of the trash that falls down into the engine from cleaning and scraping, and the vaseline goes away then.

Not only does it not hurt anything, it is cheap and easy insurance for your engine.

4Hummer

Toyota Brother You've been doing great job. Give your self a BIG pat on the back.

I was planning on doing a write up when I was rebuilding my engine, But I always forgot to take Pics and didnt have the free time to do a write up. (KIDS)

I think this thread is a great help to the Yotatech Family and we should try and keep this Thread and Pics alive (Since Photobucket Sucks and you will lose these pic eventually) I will offer to host all the pics for you. (You would just have to change the img tag)

PM me if your interested. (I can set your up an FTP Account on my server)


I should be installing my engine back into the truck this weekend or next hopefully.

BTW Have you had your injectors serviced yet ?