Ballen

well not sure what that means .

rworegon

Non-interference means that the top of the pistons cannot strike the valves if the cam and crank get out-of-time. (I suppose if the block or head was shaved a crazy amount, they could make contact if a head gasket shim was not used to make up the difference).

wcasey5

compression or exhaust stroke doesn't matter if you are replacing the belt. Put your number 1 cylinder at TDC, put the camshafts on their mark (marks at 12 oclock, pointing straight up) and when you install the distributer, the rotor button should be pointing close to 12 oclock. Too bad the marks are not on your crankshaft pulley, but if you spin the engine with the crank bolt, you may be able to put a mark on the pulley to mak it easy. It takes a bit of fiddling to get the cams lined up, it's easy to be a tooth off.

Ballen

I do not know if this is the case ...but...

what would make the timeing off .....heres what happened the first time set all on the marks . drove it .it jumped time took apart and the belt on the side without the adjuster was loose... new belt made sure the belt is tight on side without the tensioer . all markrs lined up drove again .same thing off by a tooth on the drivers side everytime ..WHY is this happening ?
And thanks for the help so far.I just don't have another 500 to put in this truck right now .I hate to sell but if i can not fix myself ..there is no point in keeping the truck.

rworegon

Tensioner worn out or binding up somehow? Have any of the tensioner components been replaced? Yours is still the spring tensioner, not the hydraulic, correct?

jreyes94

If its put together correctly and still jumping time I'm gonna guess that it's the tensioner or the idler. Also when you're installing the belts around the gears, start at one spot and pull the belt tight as possible and leave all the slack where the tensioner is. That's what I did, and it never jumped a tooth for me. I don't know if you know about it but on the underside of the crankshaft gear there is a lip...it might even be on the block but I can't remember for sure. If you install the belt without visually inspecting it and only just feel under there it will feellike it is completely on but really just barely hanging on. I found this when I was double checking on my rig.

Ballen

no the tensioner is working fine and yes spring tensioner, and the belt starts out tight and gets loose on the none tensioner side

MudHippy

It's not a matter of the tensioner working right or not. It's a matter of you setting the correct tension on the timing belt, via the tensioner. That's not as easy as it seems either. It's all about getting the tensioner to apply maximum tension to the timing belt, BEFORE you torque down the bolt that locks the tensioner in place. If you've done it right, the belt will be as tight as it can get/should be, and it will NEVER come loose.

The trick is this...

1. Loosen the locking bolt on the tensioner enough so it can move freely side to side.
2. Install timing belt.
3. With the tensioner locking bolt still loose, rotate the crankshaft clockwise 2 or 3(or more) full revolutions, while at the same time observing the side to side movement of the tensioner. DO NOT allow the crankshaft to rotate counter-clockwise at any point while doing this. That will cause the belt to skip teeth, and you'll need to start over. If you are doing everything as I say, while the belt is going around, the tensioner will be moving from left to right.
4. This is the crucial bit here...you need to tighten the bolt locking the tensioner into place when the tensioner has moved as far to the right as it will go. That's NOT when you've pushed the tensioner by hand as tight/far to the right as you can, it's when the belt is in the right point in it's revolution. You need to find that point(or rather one of the points, since there are many such points as the belt goes around), by doing what I've instructed. It's not a given that you'll be able to set the tensioner correctly just by lining everything thing up and locking the bolt down. Doing that can lead to the belt being too loose.
5. As stated, if you've done 1-4 right the belt is properly tensioned and will remain so indefinitely.

Ballen

That makes perfect sense thank you .the way i did it is the way you say not to so I guess I need to check it again before I sell it for 700 .
I love this truck ya it is a P.O.S. but i have always wanted one and it has been a good truck untill this happened .. hopefully this will fix it .

I guess if the timeing is off it will make the exaust sound strange ? almost sounds like when someone puts on the fat muffler that sounds like a giant bummble bee when reved.

MudHippy

Well...believe it or not. You can thank Chilton for that. Since that's where I got most of it.

To install the timing belt, start at step 5.

Ballen

still have not had time to work on it holiday season at fedex is a little crazy ..
go to work in the dark get off in the dark and i do not have a garage or outside lights so have to waite till sunday . before and after the game of course.

kenneyk911

I to need to time my 3vze , does anyone know how to do this I have got to get this going

jreyes94

Just follow the pictures above that mudhippy posted. Tensioning may be different depending on what year you have.

Ballen

hope to try this tomarrow if the wind stops .hard to hold the hood and work at the same time .it hurts when it hits you in the head .won't do that again.lol

rworegon

A bungee cord or two hooked to the hood and frame will help you from getting smacked again by the wind lifting the hood.