live4soccer7

So, I know that the v6 third with the v6 gears (5.29) and ARB will fit into a 4cyl housing. I am looking for some pics or a single pic of clearancing that someone has done to get this thing to ft. I am trying to save a little bit of time and the amount of times I have to put that third up there to try and get it to fit.

From what I have seen so far, it appears that there needs to be clearancing for the ring gear (notch out the existing notches in the axle housing a little more). It also seems that the width of it needs to be increased as well.

Does there need to be any clearance inside the pumpkin as well?

Any photos or words of description would help out a TON and probably save a TON of time as well. Thanks in advance for anyone that can help a fellow yota guy out.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I belive you just need to pound out the rear of the housing and notch out the notchs that are there to drop in the carrier. It will be a little of trial and error.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Yep. Some fit some need persuading. All are different due to tolerances in diff and housing.

:wabbit2:

Tim Steele

i have just the opposite. i have a v6 housing with a 4 cyl diff in it.

live4soccer7

I'll give it a whirl, see what happens later this evening after work. I'll be getting the hammer and grinder out.

We attempted to drop it in last night without any modifications to the housing just to see if we could get lucky. Did not seem to close. We were actually hitting on the outside of the diff setup (opposite direction as the ring gear). Perhaps I'll get some pics before bolting it up after I get it to fit. That way anyone that is curious can take a look in the future. I searched high and low on the web to see one modified, just out of curiosity and to save a little time. The only one I could get my hand on was a modded one to accept the electric locker setup. That was over at 4x4wire.

live4soccer7

Here we go, my proposed cutting/clearancing plan. The white is where it will get pounded out a little and the red is where it will get cut/removed.

I plan to notch the existing holes a little more. The width of the diff had issues fitting as well, so that is why I have the red dots on the left and right side. I will leave the mating surface alone right at those two different studs and take a way a little of the mating surface above and below them as shown with the dots (the dang online editing tool wouldn't let me draw lines, probably a JS issue).

Does anyone see any issues with this at all? I will likely be using a pneumatic die grinder with a cutting wheel (unless I can't get the right angle), otherwise it will be the angle grinder for the cuts. For the punch, it will likely be whatever chunk of metal and hammer I can find to punch that section out a little back there.

Again, let me know if anyone see any issues with this or that could arise from the proposed cutting plan. I saved the original image, so I can change it for anyone that may want to see it in the future.

live4soccer7

Here it is:



On the left side I measured a total distance of 3.25" (left middle studd being in the middle of this measurement) and made a mark at the top and bottom. Then I made another mark .5" inward toward the middle studd. I cut/notched this small area. I did the same thing on the right hand side too. I used 3.25" on the right as well. You could probably get away with a slightly smaller number here, but I played a little safe and the amount removed was small anyways. The thing fits in there perfect. I also cut maybe 1/4-1/2 in. to the left of each notch in the top and bottom to make it wider. I then cut about 1/8 inch to make them deeper/taller as well. Again, it was nothing substantial, but I can tell you that they fit in there nearly perfect.

I did not have to pound out where the white is. I made measurements over and over and then put some marking paint on the spots that would contact that area and when I did my test fit everything fit perfectly.

Here is the diff as I got it:



And installed:





Thanks to any and all that put forth information in the post. I may add more on if I find any substantial differences with the front diff. Otherwise, I hope someone can find this little guide and use it to help them install their v6 diffs in a 4cyl axle housing.

Setup: 84 4runner 4cyl axle - v6 diff carrier and internals with 5.29 and arb lockers.

This worked for my setup and may be used for yours, but use it as a guide because I'm sure there are many different variables/differences between the years and setups out there.

d_bomb

could somebody sticky this or copy the 'guide' and sticky it somewhere, seems pretty helpful in my opinion.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Maybe it's just the flash from the camera, but that's an odd looking
V6 third member. Hard/difficult to see the ribbing. My V6 3rds have four on each side, like on the 4crawler/Eric's/Brian's/whomever differential page. And I don't see the big rib on the very top of the third.

Any better side shots of that diff?

live4soccer7

I can clear that up rokblok, it is a v6 carrier from marlin. They don't use the oem v6 carrier. They have designed their own carrier. It has the v6 internals, so essentially the same install.

I installed the front last night. I made the same exact modifications to the housing and it fit perfectly. There was just enough taken off to make it fit and not much more at all (I wanted to preserve the integrity at much as possible. The only other modification I had to make for the front was to "flatten" (right outside of the bolt hole where it would mate with the axle housing) the v6 carrier/housing a little on the far right side (3 O'clock position) so that it wouldn't bind up on my ubolt on the front axle. The v6 carrier was thicker than the 4 cylinder one, so it would have bound up there and I didn't want to have to do any more trial fits than possible.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Cool beans. Thats good to know. I think I had heard that once before, but it didnt register I guess.

I'd love to see some close-ups of that entire third...

live4soccer7

Here are the only other photos I took before dropping them both in (too late for more).

live4soccer7

I put that marking paint there to help with clearances in the back of the pumpkin. As you can see, no issues as it is still all there

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I cant wait to do my ARBs... First an ARB front bumper though... But which comressor are you running? And did you do the little poly blue line all the way or are you doing the braided stainless into the diff? Good looking diff, by the way.

live4soccer7

Thanks, better be a good diff for what they cost. ha ha. I've got the blue line to start with and I'll see from there if I feel the need to upgrade/change anything.

I'm going to run the arb high output compressor as it will be my first on board air setup and figured it would be a lot easier than designing a setup myself. If I find I need more down the road then I will have a good idea on what I want and need and can make it the exact way I want instead of taking a good guess right now.