rear springs
03-14-2008, 07:30 AM
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rear springs
im looking to better my suspension for my truck ive seen alot of options i need help from someone whos done this before im reffering to the ever popular 1/2 ton chevy spring swap. I have a few questions, like how much of a lift do i get? or Does the double shackle work? So Im asking you guys to help me with as much knowledge you guys have on the subject thanx and keep on wheelin ya'll
03-14-2008, 10:10 AM
#2
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here ya go.
Welcome to 63" Chevy 1/2-ton Spring Swap FAQ
I made this FAQ because there was so many questions being asked about the 63" Chevy 1/2 ton spring swap for the rear of Toyota 4x4s. And I was getting tired of answering the same million questions everyday.
This swap is becoming so popular I wanted a place where people can come and have all there questions answered. Without me saying the same answers a million times. Below are all the questions from, people asking me, gathered from around the internet and from the Pirate message board.
Any contributions to add/help this FAQ along are gladly accepted.
So here they are.[/b]
What year and vehicle do you get the springs from?
The correct years are 1988-1998 1/2 ton Chevy or GMC truck. Don't listen to anyone otherwise. And don't worry about the front suspension it does not matter. You only need the rear springs. Those are the only
years you can get 63 inchers.
Where do I get these springs?
From a boneyard! All you need is the rear springs off an 1988-1998 1/2 ton Chevy or GMC truck.
Does it matter if it's from a 2WD or 4WD?
No it does not matter if they are from a 2WD or 4WD. The 2WD have 3 leaves
plus and overload leaf. The 4WD have 4 leaves plus and overload leaf. The 2WD are the
most desirable because they are softer with only 3 main leaves and are good on a pickup. You can use
the 4WD but you will have to pull out one leaf. Don't get me wrong the 4
leaves will work but most guys run 3 plus overload leaf. Some just run only three leaves.
Also some people run add-a-leafs too. Just depends on what you want to achieve.
How much should I pay for the springs?
Pay no more than $100 a pair.
How do I mount these loooog springs to my Toyota?
You must get a new front spring hanger and weld it on the flat part of the frame forward of the stock spring hanger.
For the rear shackle hanger, you can either go with a double shackle set-up (very popular) or weld on a new hanger back about 4 inches from stock.
Where do I get new front spring hangers?
You can either buy Jeep CJ spring hangers (some say they hang kinda low) or make your own out of 3.5" x 3.5" x 1/4" or 3/16" square tube.
You can't use the chevy front hangers they are shaped to oddly to work.
Can you explain the double shackle set-up?
Ok the double shackle set-up works like this. You connect one Toyota style shackle from the factory rear hanger (let it lay flat against the frame)
to another shackle going straight down to the spring. Most people run the stock Chevy shackle as the second one that mounts to the spring. Or you can make your own shackles.
Doing the double shackle set-up is just a cheaper and easier way to do the rear of the springs. No need to weld in a new hanger. It also gives you a bunch of extra suspension droop, which is a good thing!
How far forward do I mount the new front spring hanger?
If you are replacing 48" long stock springs, Mount them 11" forward of the stock spring hanger center hole to center hole. This will position the axle in stock location. Or drop a plumb line from the frame down to the center pin of your stock springs. Leave it there. Take off stock springs and line up chevys.
On 3rd gen trucks, mount the front hanger 9" To 9 1/2". 9" the axle will sit slightly rear of center and 9 1/2" should get the axle centered.
On 1998-2000 Tacomas mount the front spring hangers forward 7.5 inches. Earlier Tacomas have shorter springs, but I don't have the measurements for those. Anyone?
Some new info from Grabber(Pirate4x4 BB) for 89-95 trucks: I did a double shackle set-up leaving the rear shackle hanger in the stock location. Here are all the specs: Front spring hanger was mounted 8 1/2" forward of the stock hanger, eye to eye. ( I stated; I did it 9" before, but is actually 8 1/2", really 9" would be about perfect, but the less you go forward the better the double shackle will set up, I forgot and lost the info I had written down on my computer. Sorry.) I then used 2" x 3/8" Flat bar for the shackles. The top shackle is 5 1/2" with 3/4" washers on the inside of the shackle against the bushings (to space it slightly). Then I used an 8" shackle for the second shackle, putting it inside the top shackle, with a pipe spacer and washers between the bottom shackle (I used a 3/4" bolt at 6" for this, and size 9/16" to 3/4" will work fine). This leaves the bottom shackle slightly angled back. Looks and works good. With the mount being 8 1/2" forward of the other mount on 89'-95' trucks (which I think is really the best spot), you may need to lengthen your year drive- shaft about an 1" or 2", it works but its way down on the splines. I had another driveshaft out of a 79' that had new u-joints in it, and it work perfect, they are slightly longer. And I am using the stock d-shaft as spare, it should work fine as a spare. I have a buddy who put his mount at 9 1/2" and I will let you know how that worked out, as far as the drive-shaft and rubbing in the wheel well at full compression. But even with the d-shaft problem I feel 8 1/2" puts the wheel in the perfect spot. Another way of placing it, if you have a 2nd gen. 4runner, is to put it exactly in the center of the body mount at that location. That is where 8 1/2" ends up. Since 4runners dont have an original mount.
How wide are the Chevy springs compared to Toy springs?
The chevy springs are 2-1/2" wide and Toyota is about 2-1/4" wide. Please note on the Chevy's that the sleeve in the bushings at both ends of the spring is 3" wide. Thats why you must use 3 1/2" box tube (1/4" or 3/16" wall) for the front hanger (3" on the internal width).
Can I use Toyota stock U-bolts and spring plates?
Yes you can use the stock Toyota U-bolt but you will have to grind the springs a little bit to get them to fit.
What about a u-bolt flip kit? Can I just flip the factory u-bolts and spring plates?
No. You will need new u-bolts and a flat piece of 1/4 or 3/8 steel to mount on top of the springs.
How much lift do these springs give?
You will get about 2-3" of lift. But the springs are very soft, so most people end up using some lift blocksÊor add-a-leafs as well.
Should I run bumpstops?
Yes! They must be big enough to stop the springs from going too much past flat, they bend right near the front mount if you go to far. So bumpstops are a must!
What length should the shackle from the frame to second shackle be? What about the second shackle?
Length of shackle from frame to second shackle should be about 5 1/2"-6" eye to eye. Length of shackle from first shackle to spring eye should be about 3 1/2" eye to eye or you can just use the stock Chevy one.
What size bolts do I need to mount the springs?
9/16 x 5" grade 8 bolts with lock nuts for the spring eyes. 19mm or 3/4 x 5" for the rear factory hanger
Can I still carry heavy loads with these springs?
Yes, especially if it has the overload. Remember, these springs came off of 1/2 ton trucks, they can support a decent load.
Can I put Chevy springs on a Tacoma?
Yes. Many people have done it successfuly. For 1998-2000 mount the front spring hangers forward 7.5 inches. Earlier Tacomas have shorter springs, but I don't have the measurements for those. Anyone?
Do I have to remove the gas tank to weld on the passenger side spring hanger?
No you don't have to, but it would be easier to weld if you do. You can get away with only welding three sides of the hanger and by filling a 9/16" hole in the middle of the hanger with weld. It will work. Just make sure you keep the gas tank skid plate on and shield it also.
How is the ride with these springs?
The ride is excellent on the street and even better off road. LOTS-O-FLEX and they ride like a Cadillac! There is such a big difference between these and stock springs that it's unbelievable.
Do I need to run a track bar with these springs? What about axle wrap?
No a track bar isn't necessary. The leaves are plenty thick enough to resist kinking. Also you can try using the factory Chevy overload leaf, but cut the leaf flush at the rear of the spring pad and leave the front about 8" long or so. This will help prevent any axle wrap.
Can I run these springs under the axle?
Yeah. But why would you want to? Unless you were building a prerunner. LOL
Is it worth it to mount these springs on an IFS Toyota?
DEFINITELY! It will make a HUGE difference.
Can I just buy aftermarket lift springs for an 88-98 Chevy truck?
Yes you could but the whole purpose of this swap is you get the most bang for the buck out of stock Chevy springs. If you buy aftermarket springs you will pay through the nose!
Can I still run a stock rear driveline with this swap?
Yes!
Will I need longer shocks?
Yes! You will definitely want longer shocks to take advantage of all that new travel you gained. Get Rancho 5012 or 9012's or Procomps. Bilstein 5100 series are also great shocks.
If i attach them to an IFS truck without a front end lift, will it stick the rear end WAY up in the air?
No, as long as you only run three leaves with no lift blocks you should be fine. I am running that same set-up now. I have no front IFS lift and the rear is not that high.
__________________
Welcome to 63" Chevy 1/2-ton Spring Swap FAQ
I made this FAQ because there was so many questions being asked about the 63" Chevy 1/2 ton spring swap for the rear of Toyota 4x4s. And I was getting tired of answering the same million questions everyday.
This swap is becoming so popular I wanted a place where people can come and have all there questions answered. Without me saying the same answers a million times. Below are all the questions from, people asking me, gathered from around the internet and from the Pirate message board.
Any contributions to add/help this FAQ along are gladly accepted.
So here they are.[/b]
What year and vehicle do you get the springs from?
The correct years are 1988-1998 1/2 ton Chevy or GMC truck. Don't listen to anyone otherwise. And don't worry about the front suspension it does not matter. You only need the rear springs. Those are the only
years you can get 63 inchers.
Where do I get these springs?
From a boneyard! All you need is the rear springs off an 1988-1998 1/2 ton Chevy or GMC truck.
Does it matter if it's from a 2WD or 4WD?
No it does not matter if they are from a 2WD or 4WD. The 2WD have 3 leaves
plus and overload leaf. The 4WD have 4 leaves plus and overload leaf. The 2WD are the
most desirable because they are softer with only 3 main leaves and are good on a pickup. You can use
the 4WD but you will have to pull out one leaf. Don't get me wrong the 4
leaves will work but most guys run 3 plus overload leaf. Some just run only three leaves.
Also some people run add-a-leafs too. Just depends on what you want to achieve.
How much should I pay for the springs?
Pay no more than $100 a pair.
How do I mount these loooog springs to my Toyota?
You must get a new front spring hanger and weld it on the flat part of the frame forward of the stock spring hanger.
For the rear shackle hanger, you can either go with a double shackle set-up (very popular) or weld on a new hanger back about 4 inches from stock.
Where do I get new front spring hangers?
You can either buy Jeep CJ spring hangers (some say they hang kinda low) or make your own out of 3.5" x 3.5" x 1/4" or 3/16" square tube.
You can't use the chevy front hangers they are shaped to oddly to work.
Can you explain the double shackle set-up?
Ok the double shackle set-up works like this. You connect one Toyota style shackle from the factory rear hanger (let it lay flat against the frame)
to another shackle going straight down to the spring. Most people run the stock Chevy shackle as the second one that mounts to the spring. Or you can make your own shackles.
Doing the double shackle set-up is just a cheaper and easier way to do the rear of the springs. No need to weld in a new hanger. It also gives you a bunch of extra suspension droop, which is a good thing!
How far forward do I mount the new front spring hanger?
If you are replacing 48" long stock springs, Mount them 11" forward of the stock spring hanger center hole to center hole. This will position the axle in stock location. Or drop a plumb line from the frame down to the center pin of your stock springs. Leave it there. Take off stock springs and line up chevys.
On 3rd gen trucks, mount the front hanger 9" To 9 1/2". 9" the axle will sit slightly rear of center and 9 1/2" should get the axle centered.
On 1998-2000 Tacomas mount the front spring hangers forward 7.5 inches. Earlier Tacomas have shorter springs, but I don't have the measurements for those. Anyone?
Some new info from Grabber(Pirate4x4 BB) for 89-95 trucks: I did a double shackle set-up leaving the rear shackle hanger in the stock location. Here are all the specs: Front spring hanger was mounted 8 1/2" forward of the stock hanger, eye to eye. ( I stated; I did it 9" before, but is actually 8 1/2", really 9" would be about perfect, but the less you go forward the better the double shackle will set up, I forgot and lost the info I had written down on my computer. Sorry.) I then used 2" x 3/8" Flat bar for the shackles. The top shackle is 5 1/2" with 3/4" washers on the inside of the shackle against the bushings (to space it slightly). Then I used an 8" shackle for the second shackle, putting it inside the top shackle, with a pipe spacer and washers between the bottom shackle (I used a 3/4" bolt at 6" for this, and size 9/16" to 3/4" will work fine). This leaves the bottom shackle slightly angled back. Looks and works good. With the mount being 8 1/2" forward of the other mount on 89'-95' trucks (which I think is really the best spot), you may need to lengthen your year drive- shaft about an 1" or 2", it works but its way down on the splines. I had another driveshaft out of a 79' that had new u-joints in it, and it work perfect, they are slightly longer. And I am using the stock d-shaft as spare, it should work fine as a spare. I have a buddy who put his mount at 9 1/2" and I will let you know how that worked out, as far as the drive-shaft and rubbing in the wheel well at full compression. But even with the d-shaft problem I feel 8 1/2" puts the wheel in the perfect spot. Another way of placing it, if you have a 2nd gen. 4runner, is to put it exactly in the center of the body mount at that location. That is where 8 1/2" ends up. Since 4runners dont have an original mount.
How wide are the Chevy springs compared to Toy springs?
The chevy springs are 2-1/2" wide and Toyota is about 2-1/4" wide. Please note on the Chevy's that the sleeve in the bushings at both ends of the spring is 3" wide. Thats why you must use 3 1/2" box tube (1/4" or 3/16" wall) for the front hanger (3" on the internal width).
Can I use Toyota stock U-bolts and spring plates?
Yes you can use the stock Toyota U-bolt but you will have to grind the springs a little bit to get them to fit.
What about a u-bolt flip kit? Can I just flip the factory u-bolts and spring plates?
No. You will need new u-bolts and a flat piece of 1/4 or 3/8 steel to mount on top of the springs.
How much lift do these springs give?
You will get about 2-3" of lift. But the springs are very soft, so most people end up using some lift blocksÊor add-a-leafs as well.
Should I run bumpstops?
Yes! They must be big enough to stop the springs from going too much past flat, they bend right near the front mount if you go to far. So bumpstops are a must!
What length should the shackle from the frame to second shackle be? What about the second shackle?
Length of shackle from frame to second shackle should be about 5 1/2"-6" eye to eye. Length of shackle from first shackle to spring eye should be about 3 1/2" eye to eye or you can just use the stock Chevy one.
What size bolts do I need to mount the springs?
9/16 x 5" grade 8 bolts with lock nuts for the spring eyes. 19mm or 3/4 x 5" for the rear factory hanger
Can I still carry heavy loads with these springs?
Yes, especially if it has the overload. Remember, these springs came off of 1/2 ton trucks, they can support a decent load.
Can I put Chevy springs on a Tacoma?
Yes. Many people have done it successfuly. For 1998-2000 mount the front spring hangers forward 7.5 inches. Earlier Tacomas have shorter springs, but I don't have the measurements for those. Anyone?
Do I have to remove the gas tank to weld on the passenger side spring hanger?
No you don't have to, but it would be easier to weld if you do. You can get away with only welding three sides of the hanger and by filling a 9/16" hole in the middle of the hanger with weld. It will work. Just make sure you keep the gas tank skid plate on and shield it also.
How is the ride with these springs?
The ride is excellent on the street and even better off road. LOTS-O-FLEX and they ride like a Cadillac! There is such a big difference between these and stock springs that it's unbelievable.
Do I need to run a track bar with these springs? What about axle wrap?
No a track bar isn't necessary. The leaves are plenty thick enough to resist kinking. Also you can try using the factory Chevy overload leaf, but cut the leaf flush at the rear of the spring pad and leave the front about 8" long or so. This will help prevent any axle wrap.
Can I run these springs under the axle?
Yeah. But why would you want to? Unless you were building a prerunner. LOL
Is it worth it to mount these springs on an IFS Toyota?
DEFINITELY! It will make a HUGE difference.
Can I just buy aftermarket lift springs for an 88-98 Chevy truck?
Yes you could but the whole purpose of this swap is you get the most bang for the buck out of stock Chevy springs. If you buy aftermarket springs you will pay through the nose!
Can I still run a stock rear driveline with this swap?
Yes!
Will I need longer shocks?
Yes! You will definitely want longer shocks to take advantage of all that new travel you gained. Get Rancho 5012 or 9012's or Procomps. Bilstein 5100 series are also great shocks.
If i attach them to an IFS truck without a front end lift, will it stick the rear end WAY up in the air?
No, as long as you only run three leaves with no lift blocks you should be fine. I am running that same set-up now. I have no front IFS lift and the rear is not that high.
__________________
08-06-2008, 01:08 PM
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jeeps came in cj 5 and cj7, and they apparently had front and rear leaf springs, and a few different options for spring hangers, will any work? This is my first frame suspension mod, I don't really want to fab any parts my self on this one.
I am doing this mod because of frame rot and the relocation fits perfectly in the frame repair plan. I can sleeve the entire rotten area in 1/4 plate steal and not throw off the leaf spring setup. I plan on doing this swap this week end if I can get all the parts together.
Thanks a ton for the write up, you rock. I'll try to take step by step pix of my swap and post them on my thread. Hopefully I do it right.
I am doing this mod because of frame rot and the relocation fits perfectly in the frame repair plan. I can sleeve the entire rotten area in 1/4 plate steal and not throw off the leaf spring setup. I plan on doing this swap this week end if I can get all the parts together.
Thanks a ton for the write up, you rock. I'll try to take step by step pix of my swap and post them on my thread. Hopefully I do it right.
08-06-2008, 01:48 PM
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after looking at some after market hangers, is the custom design you referred to (3.5x3.5x1/4) just a length of square tubeing welded to the frame and then drilled for the shakel to go through it? If so, where do you drill the hole? Dead center? Do you need to sleeve it? can or should you use bushings? I am looking at some red bushings from energy something or other. They look pretty nice, Im thinking of getting the master kit and replacing all my bushings. 16 year old truck, maybe it's time. Plus maybe it will allow the truck to align better and shake and rattle less.
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get this right the first time.
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get this right the first time.
08-07-2008, 04:39 AM
#7
Registered User
The tubing is for the front hanger, not the shackle. Get the Marlin Shackle hanger. you drill the hole where you want it. There is no exact place for it. Just as long as both sides are the same.
I put the 63" chevies on my runner with an add-a-leaf and a 7" eye-eye shackle. It probably gave me 6-7" of lift. So minus the AAL and long shackle you'll probably get 2-3" of lift with a stock spring.
Im not very impressed with the springs. They dont flex nearly as far as my front which is Toy rears. And on one side it is starting to bend near the front.
Im going to switch those out for a set of F-150 springs. Which have the center pin offset something like 6". So if you plan on ever doing a bob the chevies might not be your best bet.
If your'e just looking to do some mild wheeling and street driving im sure you'll be pleased with the chevies. Oh and id do a lot of research on the double shackle setup. Dont have any experience with them but ive heard some bad things about it.
Good luck
I put the 63" chevies on my runner with an add-a-leaf and a 7" eye-eye shackle. It probably gave me 6-7" of lift. So minus the AAL and long shackle you'll probably get 2-3" of lift with a stock spring.
Im not very impressed with the springs. They dont flex nearly as far as my front which is Toy rears. And on one side it is starting to bend near the front.
Im going to switch those out for a set of F-150 springs. Which have the center pin offset something like 6". So if you plan on ever doing a bob the chevies might not be your best bet.
If your'e just looking to do some mild wheeling and street driving im sure you'll be pleased with the chevies. Oh and id do a lot of research on the double shackle setup. Dont have any experience with them but ive heard some bad things about it.
Good luck
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08-12-2008, 07:23 AM
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I had decided against the double shakel already because I thought it might be noisy. I'm not really looking for much lift, just need to move the spring mount locations, and I figured if this gives it a better ride, then bonus.
I noticed the rear rolled end of the spring is much larger than the front. What is everyone doing for hangers there?
On second thought, I'm sure the shakel is the same size so it should not effect the hanger. I'm going to just use the same square stock (3.5x3.5x9/16) front and rear. I think I will cut them off 6 inches long, then angle the ends for asthetics.
I noticed the rear rolled end of the spring is much larger than the front. What is everyone doing for hangers there?
On second thought, I'm sure the shakel is the same size so it should not effect the hanger. I'm going to just use the same square stock (3.5x3.5x9/16) front and rear. I think I will cut them off 6 inches long, then angle the ends for asthetics.
Last edited by trbizwiz; 08-12-2008 at 07:30 AM.
08-12-2008, 07:59 AM
#10
Registered User
08-12-2008, 08:13 AM
#11
I used double shackles on my '85 reap springs, although I have never unbolted them from the frame in use:
The upper shackle can be bolted to the frame:
I mainly used the upper shackle as an easy way to relocate the shackle hanger back without having to mess with bracing up the frame in that location and my rear bumper brackets.
The upper shackle can be bolted to the frame:
I mainly used the upper shackle as an easy way to relocate the shackle hanger back without having to mess with bracing up the frame in that location and my rear bumper brackets.
08-12-2008, 09:46 AM
#12
Registered User
I put the 63" chevies on my runner with an add-a-leaf and a 7" eye-eye shackle. It probably gave me 6-7" of lift. So minus the AAL and long shackle you'll probably get 2-3" of lift with a stock spring.
Im not very impressed with the springs. They dont flex nearly as far as my front which is Toy rears. And on one side it is starting to bend near the front.
Im not very impressed with the springs. They dont flex nearly as far as my front which is Toy rears. And on one side it is starting to bend near the front.
Al
10-29-2008, 12:44 PM
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Are the chevy leafs a good replacement for bad rear toy leafs, without replacing the front toy leafs? Or do you need to change both front and rear leafs if you put in the chevy leafs
08-09-2012, 12:30 PM
#17
85Toy, Roger, etc.... you guys rock!
85TOY.... THANKS for taking the time to do that, man! Honestly, it can get HEAD BANGING looking everywhere with so much contrary info on different threads/sites and then with not enough time to do even the research, due to the MASSIVE contrariwise nature of swaps like this, hahah... it gets to 'oh forget it' for many! haha.
YOU TOO, Roger... I know, I'm always thanking you.. but seriously, your 'cheap tricks' and such have helped me on 50% OF MY NEEDS, no kidding! Your parts work fine, too! haha... About to do a deck light mod of my own... hoping not to melt the rear window wiper cover in the process... but I GOTZ IDEAS!
haha...
Anyway, ............... curious...........
I KNOW there are lots of threads and tutorials on ALL KINDS of leaf swaps/questions and arguments on which is best, "New OMEmu or Deaver or Chebby or F150"... But I thought I'd just ask you, while this dudes at his swap....
A buddy of mine has done SEVERAL mods to 1st Gen 4Runners with the 'sag'.... He fixes up and sells em... And he had told me that he goes to the yards..... Grabs a SINGLE large leaf from a Chevy 1/2 Ton..... Cut's it to length(Yeah, I know, he has a plasma cutter, I don't, etc., haha)......... then just adds it to the Stock sagging leaf pack, above the overload, .....buttons back up the retainers and it's NEVER let him down or caused him a problem.(He's also does longer hangers and more, trying to remember) Not QUITE the droop, etc., of let's say Roger's/85toys LONGER pack set up, lol... But he says it works and rides VERY nice/but firm enough to handle better loads without saggin... He said if the leaf's have been compressed beyond the horizontal point for long, he starts fresh with a different approach.. But if unloaded they still have a LILLLL bit of life in em and are not compromised in any other way... Just curious what you thought of that.
And since you've both done(as many have) the Chebby springs... I'm curious what either of you make of the guys that say, "NO WAY, I love my F150 Spring Swap!".... Are they just mad they didn't do the Chebby one in the first place?.... hating in a sense? hehehe.
Thought I'd ask cuz I'm curious.. no worries if you don't wanna answer for a few weeks, haha.
Thanks again, guys! Great info on this thread no matter which way I go!
85TOY.... THANKS for taking the time to do that, man! Honestly, it can get HEAD BANGING looking everywhere with so much contrary info on different threads/sites and then with not enough time to do even the research, due to the MASSIVE contrariwise nature of swaps like this, hahah... it gets to 'oh forget it' for many! haha.
YOU TOO, Roger... I know, I'm always thanking you.. but seriously, your 'cheap tricks' and such have helped me on 50% OF MY NEEDS, no kidding! Your parts work fine, too! haha... About to do a deck light mod of my own... hoping not to melt the rear window wiper cover in the process... but I GOTZ IDEAS!
haha... Anyway, ............... curious...........
I KNOW there are lots of threads and tutorials on ALL KINDS of leaf swaps/questions and arguments on which is best, "New OMEmu or Deaver or Chebby or F150"... But I thought I'd just ask you, while this dudes at his swap....
A buddy of mine has done SEVERAL mods to 1st Gen 4Runners with the 'sag'.... He fixes up and sells em... And he had told me that he goes to the yards..... Grabs a SINGLE large leaf from a Chevy 1/2 Ton..... Cut's it to length(Yeah, I know, he has a plasma cutter, I don't, etc., haha)......... then just adds it to the Stock sagging leaf pack, above the overload, .....buttons back up the retainers and it's NEVER let him down or caused him a problem.(He's also does longer hangers and more, trying to remember) Not QUITE the droop, etc., of let's say Roger's/85toys LONGER pack set up, lol... But he says it works and rides VERY nice/but firm enough to handle better loads without saggin... He said if the leaf's have been compressed beyond the horizontal point for long, he starts fresh with a different approach.. But if unloaded they still have a LILLLL bit of life in em and are not compromised in any other way... Just curious what you thought of that.
And since you've both done(as many have) the Chebby springs... I'm curious what either of you make of the guys that say, "NO WAY, I love my F150 Spring Swap!".... Are they just mad they didn't do the Chebby one in the first place?.... hating in a sense? hehehe.
Thought I'd ask cuz I'm curious.. no worries if you don't wanna answer for a few weeks, haha.
Thanks again, guys! Great info on this thread no matter which way I go!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-09-2012 at 12:32 PM.
08-09-2012, 12:39 PM
#18
Basic add-a-leaf idea, works fine, I've done that many times on my truck over the years:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseII
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...l#Update-part2
Latest was I slipped in a bottom leaf from some unknown Skyjacker Jeep spring pack under my rear Alcan spring pack just to keep it from flattening out when loaded up with camping gear.
Best thing to do is to pull the various spring packs apart and test out each leaf, stand on it and measure the height drop with your body weight and compute a rough spring rate. Also compare lengths and free arch and then put the new pack back together, with longer leaves on top and shorter leaves towards the bottom:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ml#SpringSpecs
Test it and if too soft, add more leaves and if too stiff, remove or swap out leaves, repeat until it works like you want.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseII
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...l#Update-part2
Latest was I slipped in a bottom leaf from some unknown Skyjacker Jeep spring pack under my rear Alcan spring pack just to keep it from flattening out when loaded up with camping gear.
Best thing to do is to pull the various spring packs apart and test out each leaf, stand on it and measure the height drop with your body weight and compute a rough spring rate. Also compare lengths and free arch and then put the new pack back together, with longer leaves on top and shorter leaves towards the bottom:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ml#SpringSpecs
Test it and if too soft, add more leaves and if too stiff, remove or swap out leaves, repeat until it works like you want.
08-09-2012, 01:44 PM
#19
SWEET! Makes total sense... And I can probably find SOMETHING that would work(granting I measure first, well, before entering>>) at the pick-your-parts by me.... 5 square mile lots! haha... GOTTA BE SOMETHING in there I can snag. I see lifted and mod'd stuff all the time, too... I'd just never thought to do this. I'd like more flex, just a lil, and a softer ride to some extent than the ZUk is giving me... IT WORKS FINE, and has been great when loaded down at all! Hasn't come close to popping out either. But I think 'STOCK CONFIGURATION', modded a bit maybe, is always safer/better for the truck, right? 
lol.
The F150 one? That seemed to be the most arguing I've seen in a long time! haha.
Thanks, Roger
Bookmarked and cataloged with the rest of my "Rogers Fixes" Folder in my bookmarks tab! 
.......I'm actually not kidding, haha.
lol. The F150 one? That seemed to be the most arguing I've seen in a long time! haha.
Thanks, Roger
Bookmarked and cataloged with the rest of my "Rogers Fixes" Folder in my bookmarks tab! .......I'm actually not kidding, haha.
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