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Heater not working
#21
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
For the front heater, check that the heater valve on the firewall has the control cable attached and is opening fully. Then if that is OK, try back flushing the heater core by running water in the return line and let it flow out the heater valve to force out all the crud that may be inside.
#22
thanx 4crawler tried both those no great improvment yet
however i did install a e-fan from 04 sun fire to see if my fan was sticking on. got more power no extra heat sigh.
however my temp gauge is odly never changing it seams to operate normaly it goes to just under half and sits there no matter how hard i push the truck. can i trust my temp gauge? granted its -30 last night but is the cooling system really this good. if i let the truck sit off the temp goes down then warm back up and sits there.
thanx sry about long post
however i did install a e-fan from 04 sun fire to see if my fan was sticking on. got more power no extra heat sigh.
however my temp gauge is odly never changing it seams to operate normaly it goes to just under half and sits there no matter how hard i push the truck. can i trust my temp gauge? granted its -30 last night but is the cooling system really this good. if i let the truck sit off the temp goes down then warm back up and sits there.
thanx sry about long post
#23
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
What temp. t-stat are you running, stock is 190F:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat
Are the heater hoses hot when the heater is on, return line a little cooler than the inlet?
Factory gauge is set up to be steady in the middle of the normal temp. range, yours sounds pretty normal. Only time mine ever moves above the normal point was when something was wrong, like clogged radiator or blown fan clutch.
My heater will come close to burning your feet if it is on full blast and you don't have boots on.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat
Are the heater hoses hot when the heater is on, return line a little cooler than the inlet?
Factory gauge is set up to be steady in the middle of the normal temp. range, yours sounds pretty normal. Only time mine ever moves above the normal point was when something was wrong, like clogged radiator or blown fan clutch.
My heater will come close to burning your feet if it is on full blast and you don't have boots on.
#24
180 temp damn. that was all they had in stock perhaps i am still over cooling the system in this weather.
i just purchased a set of mech gauges to ensure a proper read out
any suggestions on if i can install a second set of oil pressure, water temp without losing my factory readings i would like to have both going.
on an unrelated problem my throttle damper seams to keep giving me a sticky throttle as it always wants to stay above 1500rpm unless a pull back the pedal with my foot. i think its one more cold weather joy i have to deal with. think im gonna drop kick it off the truck
i replaced throttle return spring and set idle 4 times warm. timing is dead on too. any thoughts
by the way your awesome.
i just purchased a set of mech gauges to ensure a proper read out
any suggestions on if i can install a second set of oil pressure, water temp without losing my factory readings i would like to have both going.
on an unrelated problem my throttle damper seams to keep giving me a sticky throttle as it always wants to stay above 1500rpm unless a pull back the pedal with my foot. i think its one more cold weather joy i have to deal with. think im gonna drop kick it off the truck
i replaced throttle return spring and set idle 4 times warm. timing is dead on too. any thoughts
by the way your awesome.
#25
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Hey, not sure if you've solved this yet ,...but I've dealt with this and 408,000,000,000 OTHER THINGS with my Runner, ......hahaha, so I thought I'd throw it out there.
1. I cleaned my core, after deducing that I have an (a.) new Radiator (b.) new OEM Water Pump (c.) new OEM Thermostat ......
2. Core was 90% clean, wasn't the issue.
3. For the hell of it, since I realized my "gate levers" in the dash are really stuck/frozen, I decided to reach around on the bottom of the heater-box(it's just under the core and right behind/to the right of the radio).
4. My cables were kinked but not broken, but when I made sure my heater control valve was open/cleaned, I reached under the heater box and found the lever that's connected by cable to the "HOT/COLD" lever in the dash.... Opened the gate, manually under the box and VOILA, POURING OUT HEAT, all hot and toasty!
*** I did a pretty OK write up on all I'd tried and even a video on where the gate lever is on the box, on my build thread, below in my sig, in red....
Best to ya,
Mark
PS> It would be a few pages back from the end on my build thread, ...just search till you see us talking about it, it's there, with a youtube video on the "SOLVED" permalink.
1. I cleaned my core, after deducing that I have an (a.) new Radiator (b.) new OEM Water Pump (c.) new OEM Thermostat ......
2. Core was 90% clean, wasn't the issue.
3. For the hell of it, since I realized my "gate levers" in the dash are really stuck/frozen, I decided to reach around on the bottom of the heater-box(it's just under the core and right behind/to the right of the radio).
4. My cables were kinked but not broken, but when I made sure my heater control valve was open/cleaned, I reached under the heater box and found the lever that's connected by cable to the "HOT/COLD" lever in the dash.... Opened the gate, manually under the box and VOILA, POURING OUT HEAT, all hot and toasty!
*** I did a pretty OK write up on all I'd tried and even a video on where the gate lever is on the box, on my build thread, below in my sig, in red....
Best to ya,
Mark
PS> It would be a few pages back from the end on my build thread, ...just search till you see us talking about it, it's there, with a youtube video on the "SOLVED" permalink.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-12-2011 at 10:58 AM.
#26
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
You can back off the dashpot screw and also give it a shot of silicone lube or similar and manually operate it to get the lube inside to see if it runs smoother:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot
#27
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
You can back off the dashpot screw and also give it a shot of silicone lube or similar and manually operate it to get the lube inside to see if it runs smoother:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot
Yukon, ...I don't think it's a good idea to ditch the Dashpot..... unless you want your throttle slamming shut every time you let off the gas. If it doesn't free up for some reason, I might have one laying around, if you need one, after all.
#29
1984 4runner heat
I have a 1984 Toyota 4runner with a 22r by lc engineering. in the morning when I go to work and the window is frosted over I can turn the heat on and this is after truck is heated up and when I get to work the window is still frosted over . I took the blower motor out it works perfect and the heats very hot but hardly blows out but I put my hand over the vent and its hardly coming out. what do I need to do to fix that
#30
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Likely some of the heater duct work is disconnected, blocked or damaged. Check it over and make sure all the connections are made up and leak free. Light also check under the cowl outside and make sure the intake is not plugged up with leaves or a mouse nest or similar. I forget if Toyota uses the blend door inside the heater box, but if so, that part often has a foam gasket of sorts that can rot away and let hot air leak out or cold air leak in.
#31
Check the valve
I was looking on here to find answers for this problem and I was taking the hose off and well, the metal cables that open and close the vents came off the coupling valve on the hose going into the truck. It has a valve that opens and closes when you turn it to hot or cold. Could be your problem if you can't find anything. The valve even has a little arrow pointing in the direction of the flow. One simple little switch kept me cold for two weeks.
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