half tank sputter 22re
04-04-2010, 09:25 PM
#22
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Sounds like the same problem I am having...
Ok I found this thread and it appears current. I have been having a very similar problem. I have an '86 4-Runner 5spd SR5. I just inherited it from my brother. I tried removing the gas cap and removing the EGR vac line. Still have the problem. CEL comes on and initially I had a code 5 (O2 sensor and code 12 (Knock Sensor). I have replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, fuel filter and O2 sensor. Brother said he dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out and put in a new fuel pump in the recent past. So I need help where to look next. Knock sensor is a PIA to access. How likely is it the root cause? It's $150. Been searching the blogs and TPS and AFM seem to be logical next checks. Agree? By the way, if I removed the uppermost vac line to the EGR and test drove it and it still acts up, is it certain not to be EGR related?
Here is my description of my problem so we are all on the same page. When cold the engine runs fine and performance is fine. After the engine warms up and under load (going up a hill) the engine looses power on acceleration (coughing, sputtering,backfire, even total cut-out). If I let up on the accelerator I regain power and engine performance. On level ground, it accelerates midway thru the gear but begins to sputter and loose power toward upper RPM range. If I shift to a higher gear I regain performance until I reach the upper RPM range of the next gear and identical performance degradation. Process repeats all thru the gears. Again, this ONLY happens AFTER the engine warms up. So my max speed when warm on level ground may be 50-60 mph in 5th gear. Hills of any grade turn it into a puppy. When cold I can get up to 80+ mph w/o ANY performance issues.
Hopefully we are fighting the same demon and the experts can kill 2 birds with one stone!
Here is my description of my problem so we are all on the same page. When cold the engine runs fine and performance is fine. After the engine warms up and under load (going up a hill) the engine looses power on acceleration (coughing, sputtering,backfire, even total cut-out). If I let up on the accelerator I regain power and engine performance. On level ground, it accelerates midway thru the gear but begins to sputter and loose power toward upper RPM range. If I shift to a higher gear I regain performance until I reach the upper RPM range of the next gear and identical performance degradation. Process repeats all thru the gears. Again, this ONLY happens AFTER the engine warms up. So my max speed when warm on level ground may be 50-60 mph in 5th gear. Hills of any grade turn it into a puppy. When cold I can get up to 80+ mph w/o ANY performance issues.
Hopefully we are fighting the same demon and the experts can kill 2 birds with one stone!
04-04-2010, 09:29 PM
#23
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04-05-2010, 03:37 AM
#24
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Ok I found this thread and it appears current. I have been having a very similar problem. I have an '86 4-Runner 5spd SR5. I just inherited it from my brother. I tried removing the gas cap and removing the EGR vac line. Still have the problem. CEL comes on and initially I had a code 5 (O2 sensor and code 12 (Knock Sensor). I have replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, fuel filter and O2 sensor. Brother said he dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out and put in a new fuel pump in the recent past. So I need help where to look next. Knock sensor is a PIA to access. How likely is it the root cause? It's $150. Been searching the blogs and TPS and AFM seem to be logical next checks. Agree? By the way, if I removed the uppermost vac line to the EGR and test drove it and it still acts up, is it certain not to be EGR related?
Here is my description of my problem so we are all on the same page. When cold the engine runs fine and performance is fine. After the engine warms up and under load (going up a hill) the engine looses power on acceleration (coughing, sputtering,backfire, even total cut-out). If I let up on the accelerator I regain power and engine performance. On level ground, it accelerates midway thru the gear but begins to sputter and loose power toward upper RPM range. If I shift to a higher gear I regain performance until I reach the upper RPM range of the next gear and identical performance degradation. Process repeats all thru the gears. Again, this ONLY happens AFTER the engine warms up. So my max speed when warm on level ground may be 50-60 miles per hour in 5th gear. Hills of any grade turn it into a puppy. When cold I can get up to 80+ miles per hour w/o ANY performance issues.
Hopefully we are fighting the same demon and the experts can kill 2 birds with one stone!
Here is my description of my problem so we are all on the same page. When cold the engine runs fine and performance is fine. After the engine warms up and under load (going up a hill) the engine looses power on acceleration (coughing, sputtering,backfire, even total cut-out). If I let up on the accelerator I regain power and engine performance. On level ground, it accelerates midway thru the gear but begins to sputter and loose power toward upper RPM range. If I shift to a higher gear I regain performance until I reach the upper RPM range of the next gear and identical performance degradation. Process repeats all thru the gears. Again, this ONLY happens AFTER the engine warms up. So my max speed when warm on level ground may be 50-60 miles per hour in 5th gear. Hills of any grade turn it into a puppy. When cold I can get up to 80+ miles per hour w/o ANY performance issues.
Hopefully we are fighting the same demon and the experts can kill 2 birds with one stone!
04-05-2010, 04:11 AM
#25
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Update: ok so I just got to work and this morning I removed the gas cap and vac line on egr(the one with the weird breather right?) Ok so on the vac line I tried blowing through it in both directions and I appears to be clogged. Could this be my culprit? I'm still puzzled on why the sputter would go away when I restart the truck tho. Also with the breather unplugged my exhaust tone sounded a lil flatter? Make sense?
Last edited by GranVille-4crawler; 04-05-2010 at 04:13 AM.
04-05-2010, 06:20 AM
#26
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Did you still have the sputter after removing the vacuum line and gas cap ?. The vacuum modulator can go bad, a few people here have had to replace it, because it was either sending to much vacuum to the egr or not enough. Let us know how it does on your way home from work.
04-05-2010, 06:41 AM
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No sputter on the way to work this morning but its only like a 10 min drive, when I get off ima go on a cruise see how it does. And for the record I did remove the correct vac line right?
04-05-2010, 07:25 AM
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It keeps the fuel at low levels centralized to the fuel pump, and IIRC, it keeps the gas localized for the level indicator....
Once fuel gets below it, you can't hit the brakes and slosh all the fuel to the front and the sender swing back and fourth... Full, empty... Full, empty...
It has to have a small tube at the bottom to equalize once the level gets below it...
You just don't have a tank, and fuel level indicator...
I keeps the fuel from sloshing back and fourth during accelerating and stopping... And that's what's keeps the fuel level indicator from having crazy readings once the fuel level is brought down.
Keeps the reading accurate to.
My Turbo 4Runner quit running with above a 1/4 tank one day... I pulled fuel pump out to find the slosh tank was empty and fuel was perfectly level around the top of it.
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 04-05-2010 at 07:27 AM.
04-05-2010, 07:39 AM
#29
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Remove the vacuum line that goes to the egr, that will keep the egr from operating. I think we may be getting close to were the problem is. Im off to work, so i will check back tonight to see what your results were.
04-05-2010, 01:30 PM
#30
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Ok just got home after a 30min cruise around in charlotte rush hour traffic(lame) and it still sputters under a load! Talk about a stressfull ride home. Gas cap was off and so was vac line. This ones a head scratcher
04-05-2010, 05:22 PM
#31
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Can you describe the sputter a little bit better, does it seen like your truck is flooding out when you give it gas, or does it seem more like an ignition related miss ?. Im running out of ideas, try unplugging the cold start injector in the upper intake and see if that makes a difference.
04-05-2010, 05:28 PM
#32
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Yeah its like its flooding out, ill give it gas. Feel it loose power and then it starts popping like its missing then it feels like its dying but if I let off its fine. Where exactly is the injector?
04-05-2010, 05:35 PM
#33
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The cold start injector is on the upper intake on the side facing the valve cover, you will see a small fuel line connected to it and a small electrical plug plugged into it, unplug it and go for a drive and see if that helps.
04-05-2010, 05:39 PM
#34
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The drive will have to wait till the morning. Beers and basket ball are my sched for tonight, what exactly does the cold inj do? Adds fuel during warm up?
04-05-2010, 05:54 PM
#35
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Yea, it adds fuel during cold starts, and its controlled by the thermal time switch, so when the engine warms up the thermal time switch turns off the cold start injector, but if the thermal time switch goes bad it might not turn the cold start injector off allowing fuel into the intake when the engine is warmed up and doesn`t need it. That would cause a bog or sputter because of to much fuel.
04-05-2010, 06:10 PM
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That makes sense and me restarting the car and the sputtering stopping goes with it. Should I expect a rough start up tomorow a.m? Its been like 55-60 here around 730
04-05-2010, 06:41 PM
#37
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If you unplug it before you start your truck, it will be hard to start. If you can, start your truck and let it warm up a little and then unplug the cold start injector.
04-05-2010, 06:46 PM
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Picture a coffee can in the bottom of your tank...
It keeps the fuel at low levels centralized to the fuel pump, and IIRC, it keeps the gas localized for the level indicator....
Once fuel gets below it, you can't hit the brakes and slosh all the fuel to the front and the sender swing back and fourth... Full, empty... Full, empty...
It has to have a small tube at the bottom to equalize once the level gets below it...
You just don't have a tank, and fuel level indicator...
I keeps the fuel from sloshing back and fourth during accelerating and stopping... And that's what's keeps the fuel level indicator from having crazy readings once the fuel level is brought down.
Keeps the reading accurate to.
My Turbo 4Runner quit running with above a 1/4 tank one day... I pulled fuel pump out to find the slosh tank was empty and fuel was perfectly level around the top of it.
It keeps the fuel at low levels centralized to the fuel pump, and IIRC, it keeps the gas localized for the level indicator....
Once fuel gets below it, you can't hit the brakes and slosh all the fuel to the front and the sender swing back and fourth... Full, empty... Full, empty...
It has to have a small tube at the bottom to equalize once the level gets below it...
You just don't have a tank, and fuel level indicator...
I keeps the fuel from sloshing back and fourth during accelerating and stopping... And that's what's keeps the fuel level indicator from having crazy readings once the fuel level is brought down.
Keeps the reading accurate to.
My Turbo 4Runner quit running with above a 1/4 tank one day... I pulled fuel pump out to find the slosh tank was empty and fuel was perfectly level around the top of it.
I was thinking about filling the tank and seeing if the problem disappears. Only problem is if it acts up again I am going to have to drain the tank and I would much rather drain a gallon or two than a full tank. What says you? Will this equalizer tube cause trouble if the tank is full? Or if it's clogged does it only act up when the gas level gets low?
Last edited by gman62; 04-05-2010 at 06:47 PM.
04-05-2010, 07:03 PM
#40
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Ive learned a lot from this site over the years, and ive also learned a lot from fixing the hack job repairs from previous owners on trucks that ive owned over the past few years. My 86 4Runner i have now is no different, ive spent the last year building it and repairing all the hack job rigging that was done to it.
