LUV24BY

Well, after my wife got home from work with the Runner, I hopped in to head out to meet a guy about a tranny. Well, started her up, pushed in the clutch and ground into reverse (wouldn't go in), so I went to first - GRRRRRRRIND. Tried second - GRRRRRRRIND. Third, forth & fifth the same thing!! HMMPH!!. I was on the phone with my boss, late to meet this guy so hopped in the Minivan and came back to the Runner 3 hours later.

I could get it to start in first gear and got it into the garage. The clutch somewhat engages however make a low howl noise. Must be crap when hot and barely working when cold.

SO - I checked into some clutches. I want to know what would be the best to get for a lifted Runner, w/ stock gears for now, running 33's (eventally to 35's), moderate wheelin (nothing above 4 rating) and will last me a while. Here are some of the clutches I found:

HAYS 'Super Truck' High Performance Clutch kit

LUK Pro Gold Series


CENTERFORCE Dual Friction (not the 3 fingered model)


I see that Centerforce has a 'Diaphragm' style pressure plate. It kinda looks like the throw out bearing is one with the pressure plate. Here is the description: Clutch Kit, Organic, 1 1/8 in. Diameter Shaft, 21-Spline, 8.875 in. Diameter Disc, Toyota, Kit

Recommendations? What would be best for my DD, 22RE that gets wheeled?


TIA!

John

Elton

www.marlincrawler.com

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Dont get any of these clutches...they are performance based. I have the centerforce dual friction in my 87, and its a BITCH to drive on the street. It provides great lockup when im wheeling, but I also have dual cases so slipping the clutch isn't needed.

Although those clutches increase the clamping force, they also make it VERY tough to shift by increasing the force needed to push the clutch down.

LUV24BY

Eventually (within a year) I will be replacing the motor with one that is probably around 175-200hp. It is still the 22RE, however I am trying to consider that while I have to do this too.

John

LUV24BY

Ok, the standard, HD or ceramic?

John

Volcom

I bought an Exedy off of eBay for @ $100. I don't DD mine and have a dual ultimate crawler so I don't need to slip the clutch off-road

weiln

My uncle just replaced his with a trail-gear. Works just fine. The trail-gear is identical to the marlin-crawler (found that out here!), but about $100 less. Now he does have the 3.4, but it seems to be working just fine. His, even overnighted from trail-gear, was about $275. List I think is $200.

LUV24BY

Well, off road slipping will be in order and DD will be common. I don't mind having the stiffer petal. I had a Centerforce I in a 1994 DX and I don't remember the petal being too stiff to drive.

Thanks for the recommendations so far!

John

ewong

I like the heavy flywheels on the 22RE...

I run a CF DF.

LUV24BY

After researching out the wazoo - I ordered the Centerforce Dual Friction. Summit Racing had the DF kit for $249. Got the throw out bearing & clutch tool for $300 w/ the DF kit. I opted for Next Day air as I need to get this done soon and didn't want to wait up to4 working days for delivery. I am willing to sacrifice some stiffness in the petal to have a good hook up on the clutch. If it's a bit stiffer on the petal, at least it will be easy to feel the contact point.

John

jagger_snitt

I have the Centerforce II clutch and throw-out bearing in my 88' 4Runner. I recommend this for the vehicle that is wheeled,for towing,and is Daily driven.
It is more powerful than stock but not over powering.I would only go dual friction if I had a wheeling only vehicle. Install a new rear main seal while you are in to do the flywheel resurfacing/new flywheel,I'd also replace the clutch master cylinder if it is the original.
Hope this helps. I think I purchased my Centerforce II for $211.00

LUV24BY

I decided on the DF after speaking to Centerforce about the existing set up of the Runner. They felt the DF would be best suited for the currnet 33", and future 35" (or 37's ) I will be running. I will have 5.29's before I go to the 35-37" tires, however currently I have stock gearing. I have lockers, a Detroit for the front and a e-locker for the rear. Those are on the shelf for now and are awaiting the gearing upgrade. I like to plan for the future plans of the truck now so the foundation I lay now will not suffer through any future mods or upgrades.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I run the CF dual friction and it works fine on and off road. Been in for about 8-9 years and hardly shows any wear. Only thing I don't like about it is that it is a little noisy at slow speeds (the little sliding weights make noise). Only time you need to watch it is when shifting at high revs, like downshifting up a hill on the highway, it'll grab really hard then, so don't just pop off the clutch.

LUV24BY

Very cool! Thanks for the tips! I think there has been a good reputation with Centerforce and I am actually looking forward to getting it in and seeing how much different it feels. Have you had any heat or slippage issues with yours Roger?

John

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

None at all. I do have dual cases so never have to slip the clutch off-road. The dual friction pads will help when hot. One side of the clutch has low temp material and the other side has high temp material to reduce slippage when hot.

4Rocker

I have the Centerforce 1 behind my 22R and it works great! I would definately recommend it for a DD.

neilan

go with the hayes i have it and it is great. it is low cost and very heavy duty with great pedal feel and clamp force.

big sky trapper

Napa brand HD/lifetime clutch kit, 119.00 been going for 6-7 years now Great clutch w/o the the brand name hype....and cost assossiated with all the advertising.....

LUV24BY

Thanks for the suggestion! I have decided on a Centerforce Dual Friction. Yeah, it was $300 w/ shipping, however I know that there stuff is good as their reputation proceeds them.

I don't think the cost is that of say, a Warn winch vs. a Ramsey or Mile Marker. I feel the cost is worth the product.

John

hodgepodge79

From someone who has never reaplaced a clutch,...I like the idea of an OEM quality (be it from napa or autozone) clutch to act as the fuse for the drivetrain. Am I way off?