StumpyJohnson

84, 22r, stock aisin carb...I rebuilt the motor a while back and all is mostly well. I noticed my fuel economy was starting to drop. I had yet to rebuild the carb, so I rebuilt it.

SUDDENLY...

I cannot get the choke to engage, resistance through the choke thermostat spring jobby is in spec. The valve seems to have some spring tension from said spring. If I pump the throttle the choke wont engage. If I open her up, operate the throttle and poke the butterfly down it'll close, and I can start right up and run decent enough.

But, the next morning no matter what I do, I have to poke the damn choke down to start up.

What gives?

Prior to my meddling I never had cold start issues and and once warm she idled down like she should and all was well. The linkage seems a bit odd, its clean enough but it seems as if it binding somehow...everything else seems to work as it should.

I could use clear, close-up pics of the linkage assemblies, A definitive explanation of how the two springs in the choke thermostat housing mesh with the post coming from the valve linkage, and maybe some sort of tranquilizer...this is not the type of crap I need to deal with when I decide to quit smoking.

Advice and pics appreciated. If you're a badass and think you can show me what's up in person I'll buy the beer and gas to grass valley.

ojm3

I went through the same thing. Turns out my idle choke solenoid was bad. i had the same issues as you. Hot starts no problem but every morning at 530 im popping the hood and lifting the choke linkage to set the butterfly down. Start with the basics, clean all electrical connections, get a volt meter see if the solenoid is getting power. if not you can hardwire it to the battery...idk where you live but here in FLA i dont even use the choke. if its cold i give 3 throttle pumps, hold it at like 1700 rpms for about 15 second then let her idle till shes warm. Also remember the tension from the thermostat spring is supposed to hold the butterflies DOWN. As the truck warms up the temp sensor in the carb will electronically have the spring tension lessen and it will open up

slow-mo

This is what I would suspect as well, improper linkage installation. The exterior carburetor linkages are the most difficult in our Aisan carburetor rebuild. The interior carburetor parts are easy.

Unless you actually broke the bi-metal choke coil (spring) inside the choke housing, the choke plate will close on its own after pumping the carburetor. Since the choke is an automatic choke and not an electric choke, the choke does not require 12 volts to engage the choke system. A 12 volt supply only applies to opening the choke plate.

Here's some pics of the linkage:

StumpyJohnson

That's what I needed, thanks slo-mo! I'll yank it off (again) tomorrow night and compare to your pics.


Ojm3,
I'm not familiar with the idle choke solenoid. Where's that located, I'm in northern Cali and its been cold lately. I need mah choke many!

ojm3

I was speaking about a stock carb. if I'm not mistaken a Weber just has a thermostat spring deal, and a sensor for temp. but to answer your question on a stock carb its a black round plastic solenoid on the carb that sits just off the butterflies. its connected to the linkage.