TC01

My 1984 22r started making this awful noise, and i think it may be because of the timing chain guide. But i have never heard one run before.


Prior to this my truck has had a hard time starting for quite a while many times it wouldn't start after being run for a little bit. it also smell like fuel in the engine bay and would puff out wet black smoke, sometimes light blue, but mostly black; it left a nice stain on the concrete. That said i rebuilt the carburetor, some the rubber pieces were leaking, after rebuilding i started the truck and it ran smooth, but kept trying to die and be hard to start up again.

So i let sit this way for a while, and now i have some time and want to fix up get it running smoothly. Also i noticed the first time i got it started it, i checked the timing and it was bouncing back fourth way beyond 8 i got once i got it to 5 it smoothed out bit, but it was weird because i am pretty sure it was already adjusted somewhat recently.

anyways sorry for the long post, and any help or direction where i should is greatly appreciated.

B-Fake

Sounds like the timing chain to me. You might check your valve lash just to be sure it's not that. I don't know how loud the valves can get, but it's worth checking. Setting the valve clearance only takes about 20 minutes, replacing the timing chain can take all weekend if things are really stuck like mine was.

On the other hand, if you have blue and/or black smoke coming out your tailpipe you're burning oil and need to rebuild the top and/or bottom end. Do a leak down test to see if it's the rings, if it's not it's probably the valve guide seals.

Buck87

First rule out the simple things like loose brackets or valves. Having said that I have been told that when the timing chain guides get old the the chain will start to slap into the cover and can wear through to the water pump. This is noisy and eventually can cause cooling water to mix with the oil..
How many miles on the engine and on the timing chain?

xxxtreme22r

Timing chain. You compare and decide. If so, which I think it is, DO NOT let it go too long. It will eat a hole right through the timing chain cover and let coolant into the oil pan.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dFuSN8jLyA

TC01

Cool, i will try to do a leak down test tomorrow and check valves as well. As for the timing chain and guides, i believe they are original, if not then at least over 100,000 miles ago since that was about the time my dad changed the head gasket and had some block work done. I figured i should change the timing chain guides with metal ones anyways.

Vang530

Check/adjust the valves! You need to take off the valve cover anyways to see the timing chain guide so two-in-one right there...video may help.

[youtube]VeEb5KvyURI[/youtube]

TC01

Ok, so i checked all the valves today, and oddly they were all too tight. i adjusted them then checked my timing chain guides and they are both still intact, but the chain does look like it has some slop, maybe it is already stretched.

Also tried to check my vacuum operated components and found out my vacuum advance and choke diaphragms are broken. I checked my plugs and all but cyl 1 (number 1 looked oddly normal, kind of white-ish tip) were carbon fouled and wet, then i did a compression check and found
Cyl 1 at 135,
cyl 2 150,
cyl 3 at 145
cyl 4 at 154
i noticed the contacts my distributor cap were corroded as well so cleaned them up.

once i put everything back together the truck started up fine but still had some noise until the rpms rose then i started to sound smooth, after minute or two the idle didn't change so i adjusted it lower but it was a bit rough. I checked the timing and again after adjusting it, it was off, this time 5 BTDC. i adjusted it, and it runs better but i notice some light afterfire? or backfire in the exhaust as well as an ocasional black puff of smoke.

since i dont have a leak down test i will have to wait about a week before i can get the tool, and do the test. In the meantime i have an order for a new vacuum advance and a couple air injection gasket for the manifold from LC engineering. When i looked at the valve cover i note black marks on it from the air injection, so i am guess that is were some of the noise is coming from.

Buck87

Sounds like it has been a while since a tune up. How many miles on the ignition parts?
Continue with the basics: NEW plugs, NEW wires, NEW distributor cap, NEW rotor and NEW points. (Probably don't have points huh?) Cleaning ignition parts and especially points is for emergencies (unless the parts are fairly new). Replace with new ones, then set the idle, then set the dwell, then set the timing. Recheck and adjust as necessary.
Leak-down test is worth while.

TC01

Thanks, yeah, my ignition parts looked wore down a bit, i am not sure about how many miles (maybe 30k or so) I will get new parts today or tomorrow and try it. I am not too sure about the points though, i know my distributor is an electric one. I am also not sure what a dwell is, but i will look it up online.
Also my engine is running rich as well, no matter how i adjust the mixture screw, but i think that may be because my vacuum advance is not working. I will try to time it again with the new part and hopefully it will work.

TC01

Ok so its been a while since i worked on my truck but now i got some time to work on it. So i decided to tear down the motor to just the block so far all i got left to take out is the crank and 3 pistons. So far what i found out was cyl 1 & 4 has an exhaust valve leak and 2 & 3 have lots of carbon and are a bit wet, upon inspection from my friend's dad he told me the valve stems seals are bad and probably leaking.

so far i lapped all the valves and bought a fel pro full gasket set, a set of sealed power piston rings, and am about to purchase a new timing kit and bearings for the cap/rods and mains.

Since i will replace the bearings do i need to have my crank machined ? everything in the engine is std size and doesn't really look worn out, i am kinda hoping i can just remove old bearings and install new ones and go. I know for sure the cylinders will have to be honed or line honed.

sorry for the novel, its just this is first time i have tore an engine all the way down.

TC01

oh and i forgot to mention one of the guides was cracked at the top bolt. maybe the chain is stretched, i will measure it.

Buck87

[QUOTE=TC01;52079219]
Since i will replace the bearings do i need to have my crank machined ? everything in the engine is std size and doesn't really look worn out, i am kinda hoping i can just remove old bearings and install new ones and go. I know for sure the cylinders will have to be honed or line honed.
QUOTE]

Yes. The crank will need, at least, to be polished.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

X2. And cylinders honed, at a minimum.

TC01

Thanks for the heads up, Yeah i was honestly thinking of just re-ringing without honing because of an article i read stating not to do it from ASE supposedly, but since i found a experience machinist who builds 22r i just did it. plus it was surprisingly cheap to hone the block and polish the crank. they came out looking really good.

I just got my block back last Tuesday, and will get my crank on Monday or Tuesday since the surface where the thrust bearings rest against was rough.

Anyways i just got all the bearings and gaskets and just need to get a timing kit. i was just curious if any of you guys used the timing kit from autozone. I don't really want to cheap out on this one, i just figured since they are down the street from me. If not any recommendations from where?

Bullet22r

Is their a NAPA near you? I would go there first than Autozone, if that fails look into Rockauto if your not in a hurry, their timing sets for cloyes/DNJ is like $50 not including shipping.

TC01

Yeah i have Napa auto near my place, i didn't even think to check there. I will see what they have, and yeah no hurry, i just don't want to get a cheap part that fails.

Normally i get stuff through amazon, but all they have for my truck are evergreen parts which have no reviews on them. i check rockauto aswell thanks