Mirage88

My son just thew a rod on his 22rec solid axle auto 4x4. I has about 280k miles on it. It has been a hunting truck/daily driver for many years. I have about $2000 invested. Is it worth fixing? Or should i sell it/part it out?

Rusted Rooster

Always worth fixing! What year? Any pics ?

Mirage88

It is an 85 base cab long-bed(rusted as they do), i'll post some pics tomorrow. All i have are pics from before we sanded two layers of camo paint off when we first got the truck a few years ago.

The wife is giving me grief about fixing it. She says she will buy me a newer one later. Unfortunately she doesn’t understand the attraction of the old solid axle pups. I had plans on keeping it as a fishing/hunting truck when we retire to Florida in a few years. I have property down there next to a game preserve that is only accessible by 4x4.

crazypaint

Ask her why she wants to spend more money on another truck instead of less money fixing one that's already bought lol

gofar22r

Remanded crank is only two and a quarter from most parts stores as long as every thing else is good i would keep it

tyler95shepard

For an 85 solid axles, i would personally do a complete rebuild and call it a day. Its not worth losin the solid axle!

Mirage88

It will need a new long block. The piston slammed into the head, bounced back and jammed in the cylinder sideways. The cylinder on initial inspection is way past saving.

As a testament to the incredible toughness of these engines. It was driven 2 miles in this state, blowing water and oil out the exhaust.

Mirage88

I am finding a few 20r engines very affordable. I know they are down on power but otherwise worthwhile as a replacement?

ojm3

Absolutely positively always worth the rebuild!! think about it bro even a brand new engine costing 2k is worth it....would you pay 2k for another 280000 mile DD that never quits and will get you from A to B and to the hunt spots throughout your retirement!? I would cause they sure aren't making SFA yotas anymore

EFI85

keep it find a reman motor or get a worn out engine and some engblder parts and rebuild it

Mirage88

OK so i found 20r low miles for a steal of a deal. I know, i know...EFI is better, faster, more efficient, etc. but i am on a budget here and the choice from the spouse is fix it for less than $500 or scrap it. I found the 20r for $100 complete. plus the funds go to support a local HS automotive shop.

Things I know i will need to deal with:
Wiring... The ECU all goes. Ignition and Fuel pump will need rewiring. no big deal. Electronics is my expertise. I have rewired cars before back in the day.

Fuel pressure...this is the tricky one for me. I prefer to use the EFI fp. but all bypass regulators are in the $150 plus range and it will throw me over the budget. Is there a way to Tee the fuel line, bypassing back to the tank before the regulator. Adding a orifice restriction on the return line to bump pressure to ~ 10 lbs.? I am thinking a Holley regulator would do the job.

Exhaust. the 20r is missing the manifold. Will an early 22R man. work? I know about the 1 vs 2 studs thing. But will the ports line up 20R head with a 22R manifold? Could i drill the centre hole in my existing 22re manifold and everything line up? Optionally i could do a header. I'v seen some reasonably priced and it might get some power back. I plan to replace the entire exhaust anyway. it is in pretty rough shape.

Am i missing anything else?

Throttle cable? will the EFI throttle cable work?

Thanks for all the feedback and encouragement. It helped the wife to understand the passion i have for the SFA trucks.

ojm3

GET THAT SUCKAAAAHH!!!!!!! Bro your never gonna get a good running toyota engine with the works for $100. And yea EFI is nice when your tilted at 47 degrees coming of a rock slope but in my opinion nothing gets your raw dogged power like that carb! I have multiple friends with both EFI and Carbs. Efi gets up to speed on the highways better, and seem to ge t a bit better gas mileage, But on the traisl, and at the mud holes the carbs run 'em like dogs! That EFI just cant make power without the vehicle moving at proper speed to almost force induce air into the engine

Mirage88

I have the auto transmission. The FSM sez pull engine and transmission together. Seems like a major PITA with a 4x4. Is there a way to pull the engine without the pulling the auto tranny? i'm heading back under the truck to see if i can find an access to the torque converter bolts.

Mirage88

I found the access panel. But curses, the broken rod is keeping the crank from rotating. Off comes the oil pan. I am going to try fish out the broken pieces.

Mirage88

I received the 20R today. I am doing an inventory of what it needs and what i want to replace since it is out.
Thermostat,
front and rear seal. no oil leaks yet, but easier to do now than later.
All rubber hoses and vacuum lines
Oil and valve cover seals.
maybe the water pump.
Exhaust manifold.

I am moving the auto flywheel over to the 20R.
Still researching the best way to convert the fuel pump without pulling the tank.

ojm3

me personally if i had the engine out already I'd pull the head send it off get it decked a bit, bigger valves and ports. tighter springs and a .270 cam and some fresh rings. then again that's me haha

Mirage88

Doing a post-mortem on the dead 22re. It is not a broken rod. It was a catastrophic ring failure. As i said before As a testament to the toughness of the 22re. I drove it 2 miles like this to get it home.

Mirage88

What was keeping the engine from turning was debris in the oil pump. I just hammered the breaker bar to turn through the crud jammed in the gears. The old engine is out now and the new(good used 20R) is being prepped to drop in. I have replaced the front, rear top and bottom seals. Now to transfer over all the accessory stuff.

The 20R checks out good. Nice tight compression. No scoring on the cylinder walls. It should be a good runner once i get everything sorted out.

ojm3

Well your that far already. Too bad its not a project id say sell the 20r for like triple what you payed for it. Bore the 22r .30 over redo the head, slap a weber and call it a day

Mirage88

I hear ya, but the wife only allows so many major projects. I have a history of projects that never seem to get finished. She gave me strict limits of $500. The 22Re is not worth fixing. The cylinder and head is pretty effed up. As many miles as was on it, it was way down on HP. The 20R will in all likelihood be a bump up from the old tired 22Re. I like the better bottom torque curve in the carb engines, especially with the tall auto overdrive. I may end up putting a Weber on it if i cant get the fuel and vacuum sorted out on the stock Asin.