84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

22re has a miss

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Old 09-18-2011, 07:41 PM
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22re has a miss

While my timing chain was removed my friend tried to start my 4Runner and bent a valve. I took the head to the machine shop and had a new valve put in and all the others checked. I also got all new seals, o-rings and filters for the fuel injectors. After replacing the all the old gaskets, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor i put the engine back together it fired right up and idled pretty smoothly. When i went to back out of the driveway i noticed the miss. When trying to take off i pretty much lost all power and could barely get the vehicle moving. Also i can hear a slight sputter coming from the exhaust pipe. When i get it out on the road it seems to run OK but with very little power when the RPM's are higher than 2500. When the engine is revving under 2500 and a load is applied it cuts out and makes a weird popping sound almost like a backfire but more hollow sounding. I went back and double checked to make sure all of the valves were adjusted correctly. I checked to make sure I had compression and it read 150psi. Then i checked to make sure i was getting spark and i was. i also checked the timing and it was correct. When the #2 plug wire is taken loose there is no change in the way the engine runs or idles but with any other wire being disconnected the engine stalls and will hardly run so i assume the problem is with #2 cylinder. So with all of that said fuel seems to be the missing ingredient. I am hesitant to take the injector out to check it because a good injector and a faulty one look exactly the same to me and i dont know how to test them. I have my doubts that a injector is bad because everything was fine before my friend bent the valve. Any suggestions on what i could check or replace would be greatly appreciated. I am at the point where i am going to give up and take it to the shop. Thanks
Old 09-19-2011, 02:13 AM
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Make sure the plug on the injector is all the way hooked up. Maybe you have a bad connection on that one. The compression is 150 across all cylinders? What did the number 2 spark plug look like compared to the others?
Old 09-20-2011, 02:25 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I havent got a chance to pull the plugs yet and i only tested compression on the cylinder i thought the problem was coming from. The reason i suspect the #2 cylinder is because it was the only one that didnt have an affect on the way the engine idles when unplugged. I am anxious to check the TPS, coil, and the MAF sensor with an ohm meter but new leads are in the mail. I have a noid tester set that i will also try tonight when my wife gets home so she can turn the engine over while i look at the light. My method of using a video camera while i turned it over was no success. Thanks again.
Old 09-20-2011, 02:35 PM
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Did you punch yer friend in the mouth yet for being an idiot?
Old 09-20-2011, 02:58 PM
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In his defense I had all the spare parts on the shelf and the hood was closed. He also gave me money for everything but my labor. He offered but I thought it was going to be a quick job. If I don't get it figured out pretty quick I'll have Jimmy Johns take him a freaky fast knuckle sandwich.
Old 09-20-2011, 05:46 PM
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You may wanna swap spark plugs. Like number 1 to number 2. I had a bad plug on my '84 22R. Ran fairly well until I slightly gave it gas. The center electrode had disappeared on a two week old NGK.... Checked everything but the obvious. Even replaced dist cap, rotor, wires 3 times...

Replaced the plug and all was well.
Old 10-24-2011, 06:13 PM
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Sorry for taking so long to get back with what i found. Im not exactly sure what actually fixed my problem but ill tell you what i did. I made some block plates and got rid of the EGR and all related parts. I took the rig to work and had the mechanic there help me out and we figured out that the AFM had a burr in it causing it to stick open. I sanded out the burr and got it to function properly but we couldnt get the timing right. It was reading way off the grid at about 45deg BTDC. This made the mechanic believe that my T chain was off a tooth so we moved it to where we thought it would be and it wouldnt run. then we moved it back in the original direction and it started running perfect and was right on time. The only thing that i can come up with is that we accidentally went two teeth the first time and one tooth back the second leaving it in the right place. another possibility could be that i had some plug wires switched. there were three people there when we put it together and i think that someone may have gotten the firing order mixed up with the cylinder numbers. Anyone reading this to diagnose their problem will probably just be confused but just send me a PM if you want a little more background. Thank you to those who replied.
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