Ares

Yep, its as bad as it sounds.

I got problem #1 solved, the FPR was not connected, but it didn't fix too many of the issues with the best.

I just bought this truck with a fresh "rebuild" according to the PO, but I am begining to think he wasn't 100% savvy with what he was doing. Here is the problem #2

At just bearly touching the throttle, either initially from idle or holding steady an RPM, there is a horrible horrible knocking noise. Its very fast paced, has the sound of metal smacking metal, so my initial thought was valvetrain, either the valves were not properly clearanced or the rockers were hitting the valve cover. Neither of those were the case. I did notice while adjusting the valves though, the exhast valve on the #3 cylinder sits physically lower then the other 7 valves. Possibly the valve is sticking open? But then it seems it should be making noise all the time. I have yet to perform a compression test to check for this.

Problem #3, 0 power. I'm not meaning 0 power as in i used to have a 6cyl jeep, i mean, it can't climb the hill outside my house with a 35mph speed limit. It can bearly get up to 60 miles per hour over the course of 30 seconds. If there is a slight grade in the road whatsoever, it will loose speed even if I downshift. Pedal to the floor does nothing. The engine isn't missing, and feels at an ok smoothness level. Timing yet to be checked

Both timing and compression tests are waiting for me to, now, trailer it back to school where all my tools are.

I am hoping, i suppose, that issue #2 created issue #3, and fixing #2 will fix #3.

Anyway, I was just spitballin for some ideas.

jsn_stockard

is it poping from the exhaust

Ares

I dont think so, but I can look into it. Are you talkin about a blown exhaust manifold gasket?

I want to say it sounds more on the intake side, but its really coming from everywhere. It sounds a lot like when you have a little valve noise, just magnified 10000x.

not noticable at all at idle. can be heard when just touching the throttle. When running up the RPMs its pretty quiet, until about 3000rpms you get a faint noise back resembling this main noise.

abecedarian

it could be that #3 valve is bent and not closing all the way and is getting slapped by the piston. If the po did the rebuild himself, he may not have caught that #3 valve... or may have caused it by having the cam installed improperly. if the exhaust valve is hitting the piston, it's possible it's doing at the top of the exhaust stroke when the intake valve is also open so you will get some noise up through the intake.

so I'd say do the comp check and if that shows #3 is low, do leakdown tests and isolate the problem. after that, you're likely looking at pulling the head at least replacing that valve.
one bad cylinder is a major drag (pun intended) on a 22re. cam timing off also will affect power.

Ares

Thats along the lines of what i was thinking too, sticky/bent #3 exhaust valve. But it seems like it should be making the noise thoughout the RPM span at any throttle level, but i guess there is only one way to find out...

I'll run the compression test once I'm back at school along with timing, but I'm not sure if the school has a leakage gauge or not. But if its pushing a low enough pressure in the cylinder to worry me I'll pull the head anyway.

A valve, piston, and rings, as much of a PITA that would be, would at least be a good straightforward fix.

pcmentor

If your going to do a leakdown, LC Engineering has a guide on it's site.

http://www.lcengineering.com/technot...&catid=1&id=31

But it sounds like a compression test could show no compression on the bent valve cylinder. Maybe the tappet adjuster is screwed down really far, because the valve spring is strong. The big gap between the sticking valve and tappet/rocker sure would be noticable.

y2kltdsport

iTrader: (1)

Spun rod bearing will make a nasty knocking and eventually squealing any squealing??

Ares

I went in and adjusted the valve clearance earlier and they were all in spec, but the #3 exhaust valve was physically lower the the others. Maybe .25," easily noticable. The rocker/tappet clearance on it is set correctly, but either the PO ground off a crap load from the valve stem on the rebuild, or the valve is hanging down into the cylinder when the cam releases it for some reason. Thats what I'm hoping the compression teste will find for me.


No squeeling yet, but thats a good suggestion. I'll definitly keep my ears open for that.

Ares

Update for you guys.

Not really sure why, but part of the noise went away when i fired up the truck today (not currently a DD). It no longer makes the knock at low rpms with slight throttle, or holding an RPM. It will still make it when completely letting off the throttle from a higher RPM, just for a split second, but thats about it....makes no sense

I haven't really done anything...reconnected the FPR (problem #1) which gained back enough power to climb the hill outside my house, but still not enough power to reach 65 mph on flat ground...and gave it new plug wires since the ones on there were from 1997. Fixed a very small vacuum leak that i doubt had any effect on its power. Thats it. So i'm pretty lost.

I also went though and pulled all the spark plugs, since I figured if one valve was sticking open, that cylinders plug would be a noticably different color then the others, but all the plugs looked perfect. And with this recent change in events I'm not thinking its a valve issue, maybe not even necessarily a mechanical issue, but a tuning issue.

In short...I NEED A TIMING LIGHT!

Ares

Borrowed a timing light. Timing was set at 5 ATDC, so I set it back to stock at 5 BTDC, and needless to say it has quite a bit more power. Still cannot really reach 70mph (the speed limit here), but runs much smoother.

The downside, the PO had apparently set the timing a 5 After to cover up engine noise. This thing is louder then all hell. It sounds like its not even oiled, or he put 0-10 weight oil in it. So...not sure what to do. Borrowed a compression tester today from a guy at work, hopefully that will point me towards something.

Making the journey over the pass with my harley in the back come saturday. 100 mile drive. Lets hope she makes it.

Ares

As for this...once i set the timing back, it does sound like it may have an exhaust manifold leak, even though the gasket it brand new. I'll have to look into that back at school too.

ozziesironmanoffroad

i know this is a dumb question, but if its a stick shift, have you checked your throwout bearing/pilot bearing/input shaft bearing etc? mine makes noise, and people think its the engine (one mechanic told me it was a rod knock and i only had a couple miles left on it before it punctured the block) but if you put a stethoscope to the engine, its making no knocking oncesoever. maybe something for you to check...

pcmentor

You might try thicker oil to see if it changes sound., Like 40 wt.

Ares

Not sure about the bearings. It does it independent of the transmission & clutch. Sounds much different then any bearing failure I've heard before, but I'll look into it.

I also thought to try thicker oil, havent gotten around to it yet. I think it may quiet things down a little. I don't think it will make the overall knock noise go away, but its worth a shot to do.

I did check the compression. Bringing in 150 across the board. So the rings are sealing, thus i doubt the noise is coming from the pistons, since they'd have to be slamming into the head to make something like this noise...which I'm sure i'd know if that was happening.

So, back to the rockers, cam, springs and valves, and possibly piston rods, and maybe the water or oil pump. So...engine disassembly...great