mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Well the white stuff on the oil cap could be conedsation and could be signs iof a head gasket. The plugs are hard to tell from the pic but look old as hell and as you may or may not know the white brownish is indicative of running hot and the black ones indicate rich running. I honestly was looking for an unreasonably clean one to see if there was an obvious sign of coolant getting into the combustion chamber. From here you want to do a radiator test "sniffer" test for gasses in the radiator. A compression test, and possibly a leakdown test to check out what is really going on. When you installed the plugs i assume they are set to factory spec yadda yadda and you crossed your t's and dotted your "I"S. Making sure it was done right? Are you getting any and i mean any white smoke out of the exhaust or does it smell sweat? Lots of irregular condesation out of the exhaust?

zack188

Yes i get white smoke out of the exhaust , i was only recieveing this during warm up which i thought was normal for a carb'd engine. Once warm up was through itd stop smoking. Now it smokes constantly at low rpms, after say 2.5k there is no smoke or possibly its pumping out so fast that i cant see it. Second , yes i gapped my plugs correctly , etc etc with spark plugs and the like. When i recieved the truck it wouldnt even bark the tires. If i punched the gas at idle it would just bog and try to die. Now it will spin the tires or atleast bark them. Plugs were done correctly.

On a side note , they are bosch plugs which i believe are the stock plugs....were a b*tch to get out. bluh...its really looking like a headgasket the more and more i read\research....My complete fuel system has been replaced and my cooling system is new. All thats left is HG or possibly carb...wish i had more knowledge.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

you're getting the knowledge as we speak. Yes it seems as thought the head gasket is youre problem but i'd rather you double check and make sure before tearing apart the engine. Maybe look on the craigslist for a used 22r motor to swap in. It might be cheaper.
http://panamacity.craigslist.org/pts/2240994280.html
http://panamacity.craigslist.org/pts/2227485974.html
http://panamacity.craigslist.org/pts/2210774822.html
Honestly though i would just do the head gasket if testing proves it's the problem and be done with it. How many miles on the motor?

zack188

Truck has 380k+ on it. The odometer stopped working at 380K. Obviously i doubt its the stock motor...havent matched vins. And 22rs down here are scarice...plus u cant trust anyone. ive seen em for 400-600. But then you get into needing a engine hoist and bla bla bla.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

holy crap man almost 400,000!!!!!!!! And you want to get rid of this gem??? A compression test before and after the headgasket will give you and idea as to what and if the motor needs a rebuild. I can''t tell you enough that the truck is a keeper but then again you're on a toyota site and well to be honest i'm a diehard toyota guy so you gotta make your own judgement. I gotta hit the hay man but will check on this thread in the morning. If any thing the next time i'm in the area i'll send you a pm and maybe we can grab a beer or go fishing Hang out or what ever.

zack188

yah its a awsome truck....I really like it...It needs some work but up until now it wasnt anything i diddnt think i could do....but im thinkin a headgasket may be outa my league...I can turn a wrench but getting it to TDC on compression stroke AND the fact that you have to remove EVERYTHING before you can take the head off, includeing the cam...really makes me nervous.

Whens the next time your comming down? lol Ill park it in the back and let you fix it on vacation....lol

Whats wrong with this kit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/81-84...Q5fAccessories

XtraSlow_XtraCab

1) The 380k miles is more believeable than you think! And to be honest with ya if the bottom end isn't knocking, its ok. In this situation, the crucial factor of the bottom end is turning those connecting rods into the letter "S". (Water doesn't compress).

2) A torque wrench and a darn good breaker bar. I have a 3 footer in my tool chest... head bolts fear me those are your friends for those head bolts.

Changing the headgasket is a piece of cake and can be done with the motor in the truck (the head is light enough to lift off) so the hoist wouldn't be necessary. The most critical part is keeping the timing chain from slipping off of the crank sprocket. This can be fixed in case the worst should happen, but often requires the removal of the timing case... an entirely different beast altogether for a novice 22R mechanic.

I did my first headgasket on a 22R... and that was 40,000 miles ago, with some advice from a long-retired mechanic and a cheapo haynes manual.

XtraSlow_XtraCab

Camshaft can stay in.

The rocker arms come out as an assembly.

zack188

I thought the camshaft had to be removed to reach the headbolts?

XtraSlow_XtraCab

No. When I my took head in to have the bottom deck machined, it went with the camshaft still installed. In fact the bolt heads sit at a higher elevation than the cam. And the "rocker arm assembly" is a tubular chassis that all 8 rockers rotate off of. This is held down by the head bolts. The camshaft itself is retained to the head separately with semi-circle bearing journals.

zack188

Hmm ok, but wouldnt the machine shop remove the cam to boil and do the headwork? Thus screwing up timing alignment if your a novice like myself?

XtraSlow_XtraCab

No... when you take a cam out, all of the valves snap shut (because there are no cam lobes to depress them). Timing is all in the front chain. "Valve adjustment" is actually "valve lash" which is the gap between rocker arm tip and the top of the valve. There needs to be "wiggle room" not too much and not too little.

Actual valve timing is the rotation of the camshaft in conjunction with rotation of the crankshaft... so that valves open when need to and don't when they shouldn't. Its when this timing chain is replaced and the shafts are not properly aligned that valves are bent.

Whats great is timing chains I've seen have easy to read alignment marks that make it a piece of cake rather than "counting the links".

And if the machinist screws ANYTHING up, its on THEM.

You should really download the factory Toyota manual from the link in my signature. Don't worry, it's not a scam or a virus link or something stupid. I just try making it easier to find the most helpful resource on this forum. You need Adobe Reader to view the PDF file.

zack188

Tooshay....wanna come rebuild it for me? lol

XtraSlow_XtraCab

Ah man if I could afford a plane ticket to Florida and you put me up in room and board. But I work fulltime (luckily) and have DUI fines to pay (unluckily). Life's a b****, but atleast the time is free. Too bad... my old girlfriend lives in Miami lol.

What I can do is assist you either through the forums, email, or even youtube whenever Q's pop up.

zack188

That would be great. Now here comes the questions lol.

What are the three green connectors on the thermostat houseing at the top? 1 of mine is broken and 2 were disconnected.

Second the large hole at the radiator side of the valve cover that has a small hose running to it and runs to the air breather. What does this do? My hose wasnt connected there either.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Zack, get to reading and learning here's the fsm links. If you really get stuck and have exhausted all searching and reading options then ask questions. If i were you start taking pictures, labeling things, set aside boxes for bolts, label some more, Read, label some more, read again, you get the point? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...manual-156129/
Glad to see you're entertaining the idea of fixing it and you will know your rig better and be able to take care of it that much better in the long run. Like posted before you have rare truck that is needing some tlc and with that you can have a really nice rig with some effort. Start a thread about it document what you're doing and take lots of pics so we can help you better.

zack188

Well the FSM link doesnt cover my year...only 85-86 is the closest.

XtraSlow_XtraCab

1) Those green connectors are temp sending units, but not for the gauge. They're sensors plugged into the 22R's ancient "computer". The only responding device is an electric vacuum switch mounted on the passenger side fender... on an 85 there's two and on an 84 only one. The other two probably control the CMH (cold mixture heater) which is a coil (much like an electric stove) built into the bottom side of the intake manifold to pre-warm the intake and make the venturi vaporizing process easier. Basically... a gimic to try and make a carbureted engine run better when it first starts.

I don't know what the third one is, but its going to effect when an electrical device is on/off based on coolant temperature. I can't say "having these things working will run the truck better", but they were there for a reason. Smog. Truth be told though, techie's don't actually test to see if they work. Just make sure they LOOK like they work. The carburetor's choke and 2,600 high idle speed will make it warm up in minutes.


2) The disconnected hose from the valve cover is just an oil breather hose. As an engine runs and warms up it creates Positive Crankcase pressure. It is constantly exhaling oil-tainted air that needs to be filtered back into the air filter for re-combustion. If the hose is dsconnected from the vavle cover, some oil residue can exit the valve cover and make things messy.


The 1985 FSM will be of great help and can answer back sooner than I can, it is the same for a 1984 manual, except with an additional electric vacuum switch listed in the vacuum diagram under EMISSIONS AND DRIVEABILITY. Doesn't mean I won't continue answering questions, but true understanding for how the "complicated smog components" function can all be udnerstodo from that literature. And in most cases, this applies for every 80's severely smogged up car/truck. Essentially, if you read the "EMISSIONS AND DRIVEABILITY" section, you will understand the beginnings of how car smog systems work. The day you don't pass smog, you will be able to diagnose it yourself instead of paying an unreasonable amount to some hack-job, Gold Shield smog mechanic.

zack188

Got er back on the road fella's. Cleaned up the carb real good and that cleared up my not starting without adding gas and carb issue, I also believe when i took off the carb there were some unattached hose's, so when i put it back on i had to expierement some but i found where i THINK they go lol.

And i just pulled my thermostat and it runs like a top....no over heating no back pressure through the radiator...etc..

Now if only i can get my headunit for a stereo , my speakers in and the body all one color...lol...

EDIT - Quick question...I looked up recommended oil for this truck and it was 5w 30 or 10w 30....But with this many miles should i run a diff oil wieght? Any advice?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

i run 10w40 in mine it has 145,000. Glad to see you got it running.